New permanent magnet motor on youtube from Roobert33

[Arrow]

IF I can get it to run at all.

I did not understand why Robert need ferrits to glue magnets to brass round plate...I am able to shape magnets relevantly to get good Radius by diamond dry disk on the bottom, but sure Robert also had such tools. It is big and only question for me, moreover I can not see any ferrits  on this motor design absolutely...
may be my English is too weak to understand what he is advising but I really do not understand this sentence:
I think I am getting old and already became the blind man:(

<Another important issue is that the rotor wheel is not made or covered with magnets. It is made with ferrite pieces. Ferrite is strongly attracted to magnets. You can't glue opposing neo magnets that close together in a line without them flying all over the place.>

and one more thing dear Scorch, in my drawing you can see exact shape of motor camshaft, I think , if you are able to scale it and copy to paper to get it on PVC then your motor will work as it is in the movie.It is very important part with its shape!

[Scorch]

The brass drum / rotor does not have any magnets on it.
What looks like magnets on the rotor are merely nickel plated ferrite rods that LOOK like neodymium magnets.

The ferrite rods I am going to use are off the shelf 10mm X 20mm ferrite rods from newark.
See:  http://www.newark.com/ferroxcube/rod10-20-4b1/ferrite-rod-20x10mm/dp/63R5820
They are grey in color (not nickel plated) and a little longer than I would like to use; but is the only thing I could find "off-the-shelf", on the Internet, without special order.
And maybe the longer length will help make up for my slightly smaller rotor.

The ONLY magnets in this system are:
#1 Stator magnet on top.
#2 Trigger magnet on bottom.

It is a simple attraction system with two magnets attracting a ferrous V track towards them.
The top stator is a variable position magnet sitting on a spring that can also be lifted away from the track as needed.
The bottom trigger is a fixed position, "on-off", magnet only used for a split second at the right time.

The stator magnet on top is attracting the wider part of the V shaped "track" towards it.
The CHALLENGE is to lift the stator magnet away from the from the track at just the right point so it does not attract back, in the wrong the direction, resulting in a locked rotor.

There is also another magnet on the bottom also operating to attract at exactly the right point to keep the rotation turning.

There are many demonstrations of a V-track on the internet such as this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3r2aZ3llqok
Which uses magnets in both the track and the car BUT I suspect the same motion may be accomplished with magnets on just the car and iron rods, or ferrites, in the track.

There is also a brass weight in the rotor.
I do not know the significance of this brass weight.
Was it used merely to balance the rotor?
Or is it used to UN-balance the rotor and provide a "gravity assist" at a certain point of rotation?
If so; I would suspect this is only in play to get the motor to self start.
And once running centrifugal force will override gravitational force.

The questions I would have for Robert are:

-Is the brass weight for balance or gravity assist?

-Is the paired magnet at the bottom configured with same poles pushed together to create a narrow beam of magnetic force?

-Which direction are the magnetic poles facing?
IE: North up, North down, North towards direction of rotation or away from direction of rotation.

-And is the same true for both the stator and the trigger or are they different?

This may take a lot of experimentation to find these answers.
I will start with just North of both magnets, facing rotor, before trying anything unusual such as a focused beam which can be quite a challenge to force same poles together of a pair of neodymium magnets then attach them to a brass plate without them flying apart. . .

I like to believe this will not be necessary and he merely used two magnets because that's what he had on hand.
And a single .500"W X .500"D X .250T magnet will work just as well because all it has to do is attract at the right time.

It is my firm belief this motor video is not fake and this can be replicated.
If you can make a repeated "V" pattern track that will carry a car along it's entire length (see youtube) then you can ALSO make a spinning rotor with the right kind of magnetic commutation (switching) of a single "V".

}:>

I did not understand why Robert need ferrits to glue magnets to brass round plate...I am able to shape magnets relevantly to get good Radius by diamond dry disk on the bottom, but sure Robert also had such tools. It is big and only question for me, moreover I can not see any ferrits  on this motor design absolutely...
may be my English is too weak to understand what he is advising but I really do not understand this sentence:
I think I am getting old and already became the blind man:(

<Another important issue is that the rotor wheel is not made or covered with magnets. It is made with ferrite pieces. Ferrite is strongly attracted to magnets. You can't glue opposing neo magnets that close together in a line without them flying all over the place.>

and one more thing dear Scorch, in my drawing you can see exact shape of motor camshaft, I think , if you are able to scale it and copy to paper to get it on PVC then your motor will work as it is in the movie.It is very important part with its shape!

[Arrow]

Hi dear Scorch, please find my step by step answers below to you post.

The brass drum / rotor does not have any magnets on it.
What looks like magnets on the rotor are merely nickel plated ferrite rods that LOOK like neodymium magnets.

OK thanks, now I understand but , sorry, as far as I am going to get power from dram I need to use Neo magnets at the both sides to have more torque. see this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCr3lOhMJCg and this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIEJ0vMnhjg and my first try from HDD magnets http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlsLBikVerE - it is my inexpencive testbase. I am "playing" with this rotor everyday:) It is from the EPP foam. I made it on my own construcrted Foam CNC hardware in 2 min:) I am going to upload new video to my channel MrArrow1961 soon. So, you will be keepposted if come to my Tube sometime..there is my videos about my own used technologies, RC fligths, my Cad software research and results, lot of learning materials about CNC ,Rhino cad's etc. Thanks for watching Sir!

The ferrite rods I am going to use are off the shelf 10mm X 20mm ferrite rods from newark.
See:  http://www.newark.com/ferroxcube/rod10-20-4b1/ferrite-rod-20x10mm/dp/63R5820
They are grey in color (not nickel plated) and a little longer than I would like to use; but is the only thing I could find "off-the-shelf", on the Internet, without special order.
And maybe the longer length will help make up for my slightly smaller rotor.

OK, understand, thanks for information about the ferrite nesting place:)
Ferrites that are not plated with Nickel will not work in magnetic field effectively based on the known  causes â€" magnet will pull more effectively if it has in front of it more ferromagnetic metals such as iron, nickel etc. 

The ONLY magnets in this system are:
#1 Stator magnet on top.
#2 Trigger magnet on bottom.

OK

It is a simple attraction system with two magnets attracting a ferrous V track towards them.
The top stator is a variable position magnet sitting on a spring that can also be lifted away from the track as needed.
The bottom trigger is a fixed position, "on-off", magnet only used for a split second at the right time.

This ferrites( if I will find nickel plated once)  I will check up at the next project of mine, not at this time

The stator magnet on top is attracting the wider part of the V shaped "track" towards it.
The CHALLENGE is to lift the stator magnet away from the from the track at just the right point so it does not attract back, in the wrong the direction, resulting in a locked rotor.

Yes agree.

There is also another magnet on the bottom also operating to attract at exactly the right point to keep the rotation turning.

Yes agree

There are many demonstrations of a V-track on the internet such as this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3r2aZ3llqok
Which uses magnets in both the track and the car BUT I suspect the same motion may be accomplished with magnets on just the car and iron rods, or ferrites, in the track.

This video is very good demonstration how magnet-magnet V-gate is working. Same effect we have in Roobert33 motor, but less powerful I guess as fаr as we will not have there 2 side V-GаÑ,е magnet energy sum, that is my firm belief based on my own experiments with V-gate shape installed magnets and clear, non magnetic ferrites.

There is also a brass weight in the rotor.
I do not know the significance of this brass weight.
1.Was it used merely to balance the rotor?
2.Or is it used to UN-balance the rotor and provide a "gravity assist" at a certain point of rotation?
If so; I would suspect this is only in play to get the motor to self start.
And once running centrifugal force will override gravitational force.
The questions I would have for Robert are:
3 -Is the brass weight for balance or gravity assist?
4 -Is the paired magnet at the bottom configured with same poles pushed together to create a narrow beam of magnetic force?
5 -Which direction are the magnetic poles facing?
IE: North up, North down, North towards direction of rotation or away from direction of rotation.
6-And is the same true for both the stator and the trigger or are they different?

I put numbers on your question to simplify my answers if you don’t mind Sir:)
1)- My opinion - it is just nice and simple material that was used by Rob33, it is adding weight and nothing doing with mechanical or magnet field balancing.
2) see my opinion above at 1) answer
3) My opinion - If you mean brass short finger insertion into the ply of dram wall, then this is mechanical balancing to get first small moment to pass every time  dram it self like “flywheel”  dead point.
This is most difficult part to find exact place (point) to put it in every new dram like that.
4) each magnet line of at V structure has same pole e.g. let say left side N pole on the top and right side S pole on the top. When you will try to install them from Neo you will get force that will arrest your movements and exact targeting of magnets at their place. So be prepared to stand against of that confrontation force as far as by my calculations gap between the magnets only 2mm for D= ½” magnets. If you are going to use smaller magnets then reduce that gap to minimum to get approx solid magnet line from all magnets. As minimum gap between magnets that less subsidence of polelines between them.
5) see my answer above at point 4)
6) About top magnet - dram North side magnets has to see above same pole â€" North and dram South V-gate line has to see above same pole â€" South
About bottom magnet â€" I am not sure, need to construct my dram to check it, but to run a few steps forward I will copy the same position for bottom magnets to dram as the top one.

This may take a lot of experimentation to find these answers.
I will start with just North of both magnets, facing rotor, before trying anything unusual such as a focused beam which can be quite a challenge to force same poles together of a pair of neodymium magnets then attach them to a brass plate without them flying apart. . .

Not agree:) I made it, its working as I said above, try to use may experience, guess and hope you will become happy to see easy result just with 1 bullet shoot:)

I like to believe this will not be necessary and he merely used two magnets because that's what he had on hand.
And a single .500"W X .500"D X .250T magnet will work just as well because all it has to do is attract at the right time.

Agree, just all magnets or ferrites  has to have sharp same height and other dimensions. Height is most critical staff. Take a note.

It is my firm belief this motor video is not fake and this can be replicated.
If you can make a repeated "V" pattern track that will carry a car along it's entire length (see youtube) then you can ALSO make a spinning rotor with the right kind of magnetic commutation (switching) of a single "V".

Well, dear Scorch, V-gate principle IS WORKING, believe me, I am not bad and alive Armenian engineer with old "Soviet" wide knowledge base:)
Thanks for your information and help to me, I really appreciate to communicate with you and be effective and helpful for your project as well with my shared information. Shared info coming only from my own experience, no advertisements , no tricks, not an idea â€" just from practical working experiments.

Hope my post and answers will not disappoint by its content Mr. Robert H. Calloway. This long lasting post was only my tech opinon and I love to know if it will be loved by my namesake - Genius Engineer from Texas Mr. Robert H. Calloway

P.S. If only nickel plated ferrites on dram working with up and down magnets at motor it means for me that Genius Engineer from Texas Mr. Robert H. Calloway show his tuff middle finger up to any fundomental knowledge base man in the all over the World! Thanks Rob!


Truly
Rob

[roobert33]

Roobert33 isn't  "Mr.Robert H. Calloway"

[Arrow]

Roobert33 isn't  "Mr.Robert H. Calloway"

Hi dear Rob, is this your motor we are discussing here? if yes I am completely confused because this is your first post here from November 17, 2010, 11:47:43 AM »Sir.Probably you were too busy, dont you? If you the owner of the motor are you able to share with us details or this is already closed confidential issue?