Selfrunning HHO system with 400 Watts additional output

[Les Banki]

Thanks for your reply. Yes I do know that if the motor is running on pure HHO there is no need for any high energy plasma ignition, however there are those who are misting water or injecting water mist to supplement power and lower the amount of HHO required. For such motors high energy plasma ignition will be useful.

Yes, with water vapor injection (or water alone, NO HHO!!), I agree with your statement about the need for plasma ignition.

In 2005, a mechanic under the ‘screen name’ “s1r9a9m9”, had a car running on water.
NOT with HHO and water vapor, ONLY WATER!

Are you familiar with that story?

If not, I encourage you to download the 58 page document:
“Car_that_runs_on_tap_water_Plasma_Spark.pdf” written/compiled by Patrick Kelly.
(For some reason this document is no longer on his web site, nor is it included in his latest e-book.)
I have these documents but due to their large size, I cannot attach them here.
(Just do a Google search.  There are many sites offering downloads.)

Personally, I would not complicate things further with water vapor injection, for the following reason(s):
1.  Some people on this site are already complaining about the complexity of my
     published designs.
2.  Extra cost.

Besides, my set-up will produce WAY more additional power than the generator requires to run! 
I know some don’t believe this but so be it. 
I could not care less!

Just watch the video presented at the start of this thread.
I would say that generator used by Oliver & Valentin is rated at no more than 1800W.
I have a brand new generator sitting here….waiting!...rated at 9kW (8kW continuous)
Folks, we are talking several kW of excess power!
Get used to it.
Enough said.  (for now)

Best regards,
Les Banki

[KateDaring52]

Well, great work! You have helped me to improve my knowledge about this field. Thank you so much for sharing.


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[Les Banki]

Hello ‘KateDaring52’

I see it was your first post.

It was also the first post since my last one here over two months ago!
(That just shows the level of interest for this subject!)

Thank you for the feedback.  I am glad you got something out of my ‘ravings’.

All,

Some of you probably realize that the HEART of this (and I dare say most “free energy”) projects is the CONTROL ELECTRONICS.
(That is why I have put such an ENORMOUS effort and time into this, using my knowledge and skills.)

Perhaps you would like to know that since my last post I have COMPLETED the remaining electronic control designs for this project:

1.  A new phase control power supply with 2.4kW capacity for the 240V, 120 cell electrolyzer, complete with current limiter and unidirectional feedback.

2.  Optical level sensors & re-fill circuits for the electrolyzer and main tank.

3.  A very simple circuit which (with the help of the remote control supplied with the electric start generator) will start the engine automatically when the preset gas pressure is reached.

All that remains now is to ‘tidy up’ a couple of pcb layouts, order boards, assemble & connect the numerous circuits (modules) together and connect the generator!

I know that some readers here will (again!) complain about the complexity of it all!
(Particularly the ‘autorpm’ circuit.  It has the highest component count and its detailed circuit description is 10 pages!)

But, have you heard anyone complaining about the complexity of , say, a computer? 
Or a TV?
No-one cares as long as they WORK properly!
(But they sure are cursed when they malfunction!)

Generally, before complaining about “complexity”, one needs to consider the PERFORMANCE of such circuit(s).

OK. 
For the first time, here is a brief summary of the performance you can expect of this
set-up:

First, CORRECTLY set-up and ADJUST:

1.   Low voltage power supply outputs
2.   IGNITION TIMING
3.   Electrolyzer current limit
4.   Water/electrolyte refill levels
5.   HHO gas PRESSURE
6.   Engine IDLE speed
7.   Microphone sensitivity (detecting engine start)
8.   Time to reach correct RPM 
9.   Generator output (switching) FREQUENCY (50Hz)
10.  Automatic BATTERY CHARGER minimum & maximum limits

After that the only thing you need to do is:

Turn the generator key to the ON position, apply start-up power (from mains or battery/inverter) and stand back!

The sequence of events are as follows:

With 240V AC power applied to the entire system, the electrolyzer starts producing gas.
When the pressure reaches the pre-set level, the generator starts automatically.
As “engine has started” signal is detected, RPM starts to increase gradually over the adjusted  time period.
The generator’s output voltage/frequency is now increasing. 
When its FREQUENCY reaches 50Hz (at approx. 240V), a change-over POWER RELAY is used to disconnect the start-up supply and connect power to the system from the output of the generator.

In short, the generator is now powering EVERYTHING!!

All this is happening AUTOMATICALLY, without further intervention.

Wishful thinking?
Not at all!
Every stage is already working EXACTLY as intended.

Over the next few days I will publish the circuit diagrams, pcb layouts and circuit descriptions for the above mentioned designs, PLUS the ‘autorpm’ circuit which has been ‘ready’ for about 4 months.

Remember, you don’t have to understand all the technical details of the circuit descriptions to duplicate my work.

You could say that I have done all the work for you.  Just pay close attention to the details, try to avoid making mistakes and you will be fine.

Best regards,
Les Banki

Ps.  The 'autorpm' circuit is rather LARGE!
It needs 2 A3 sheets!
PCB layout will follow in a couple of days.

[bolt]

http://sites.google.com/site/silverfreeenergy/home

Les have no fear you are not alone! I am busy working on this also and currently i have mine working on propane 10% and  90% HHO so its cost a couple of cents a Kw to run. Not looped yet but might need more HHO. I have gone the software route i tell you roughly how it works. Hall device on flywheel sees every rev and fires to start on 100% LPG. After 900 rpm software tries to DIV 2 then checks if the engine still running. It can start on a can of plumber  propane. This overcomes starting and all the issues with HHO and no need for a kick start PSU. Once the software finds the correct phase it sets a flag in software and stores to memory so even if the engine stops and started again it knows what phase the engine is in if the CPU is still powered up. At 1000 rpm HHO turns on and currently i manually have to change the timing delayed for HHO. I am using 2 off 500 watt PC Supplies. I been writing and learning software to make Auto timing seek to run on any fuel from natgas, LPG, propane, methane, HHO or and gas mix with HHO.

At 2900 rpm the software starts to control the HHO by switching the PSU's and tries to stable around 3000 rpm. (mine is 50hz)  Control of HHO gives me load speed control but as emergency over speed at 3200 rpm the spark is suppressed instantly. This should halt a sudden speed up when a load is disconnected before gas loop has time to adjust. Later i have other things in mind like 1500 rpm economy mode. Will run at 25hz and much lower power for light loads like battery charging and of course is very much quieter and  less stress on the engine.

[Doctor No]

This topic as well others FE topic are practicaly dead, even when energy prices climb up. This all shows only how people passive are. When all comes to end, all what thay can afford yourself will be some winking.