Selfrunning HHO system with 400 Watts additional output

[Les Banki]

All,

First, here is a brief summary of what I wrote elsewhere about engine management:

It may not be obvious to the average person but engine management was NEVER  “simple” for ANY fuel!

Generally, complexity is hidden from view by the ‘black box’ approach.

Average replacement cost of a “modern” car ECU is around $1200 to $1500!!

This alone indicates two things:
1.  ECUs ARE fairly complex
2.  BIG TIME rip off!

And yet, in car engines, piston(s) position information is DIRECTLY available from the CAM shaft.
For small engines, there is no such “luxury”!
The cam shaft is (usually) NOT accessible from the outside of the engine!

For CORRECT operation, we NEED a signal from the CAM shaft, NOT the crank shaft!
(Despite all arguments to the contrary!)

This fact makes our task a bit more complicated.

On the other hand, our ‘new’, FAST burning fuel (HydrOxy) makes ignition point setting a LOT simpler than for ANY other fuel!

Here is a quote from my “Ignition system for small engines 2” article:

“It needs to be pointed out that the ignition system for HydrOxy ONLY (not just a booster) will be very different from ignition systems for hydrocarbon fuels.
It will be significantly simpler.

There will be NO “speed mapping”, NO “load mapping”, NO retard/advance change with engine RPM,  NO rich/lean mixture setting, NO cold start setting, NO “knock sensor”, NO fuel/air temperature sensor, NO Oxygen sensor, etc., etc.,
(“modern” engines are full of all that rubbish!)
There will be NO need for high energy sparks, multiple sparks, etc.
Further, there will be NO such thing as UNBURNED fuel remaining in the cylinders!!”
End quote.

Don’t forget that my ignition control design is based on my CDI module.

Keep in mind that its power requirement is only 6W (maximum) at 6000RPM!
(At lower RPM, it is less.  See further details in the circuit description.)
It is triggered by my ignition control circuit.

If you intend using only some sections of my ECU design, that is OK, EXCEPT trying to use an old, power hungry (60 â€" 120W) Kettering type ignition with a power transistor switch, you are on your own!
(In that case, you have to not only ADD your own driver interphase to drive your switch but also have to provide an additional power supply capable of supplying 5-10A, just to create ignition sparks!  This would also require a MUCH larger power transformer.)

My CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) design has been published more than once since its release about 3 years ago but NOT in this thread.
That means most of you will not have it.

Since this Forum does not provide ‘project folders’ (to my knowledge), my attached files are ‘all over the place’ and rather difficult to find!  (so I am told)
I am now looking for other options/Forum(s) to publish everything in ONE place.

In the mean time I will continue to attach files here.

The test oscillator (4046 VCO test osc.sch) is for setting up & adjusting the ignition/injection control circuits.
IMO, a CDI system is essential for this kind of projects.
So here it is, all attached.

Best regards,
Les Banki








 

[X_MAN_00]

Thanks a lot. I had to share it again.
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[advancedynamics]

Oliver and Valention, 2 users from the OverUnity.de forum, showing their selfrunning HHO system powering a 400 Watt incandescent lamp for the first time in public....Belt Conveyors

[Mark69]

any new info yet?  Les, Bolt, any updates?  Keep up the great work!

[Les Banki]

‘Mark69’ (& others),

New info?
Yes and no.
By now you should realize that my ECU design is COMPLETE and has been for some time.

The last part was/is the water/electrolyte level sensor & pump driver circuits which are actually not mounted inside the ECU box but are attached to the electrolyzer.

So what are you guys actually waiting for??

All of you could have duplicated my work as I was publishing the details of the design.
Or perhaps you are all waiting for yet another “proof of concept”??
Wasn’t the video by Oliver & Valentin convincing enough?
How many more are needed before some of you will wake up and realize that this technology is REAL?

Am I being too harsh?
I don’t think so.

Just have a good look at this Forum and THIS thread.
What do you see?

I must admit there is SOME interest, judging by the number of downloads of my files.
But how many are actually working on this kind of project is hard to say.
If there are some, they are silent.
In a way, I don’t blame them.
Just re-read the first few pages of this thread and you will see what I mean.

Never mind.

I have joined the newly created (and properly moderated) ‘watercarTWO’ Forum, in order to publish all my project files/details in ONE place, without interference, abuse or negativity.
I have a 100MB Folder there which is being ‘populated’ rapidly.
I post there as well.

OK.
Here is some info which may interest some of you.
I have attached a picture of the generator which is used for this set-up, before all the un-needed parts were ‘stripped’ from it!

It is a Ducar LX9000.
It has a 420cc, 4-stroke engine
Its output is rated at 8kW peak, 7kW continuous.

It has electric & pull start.
It was supplied with 2 remote controls AND a 9AH starter battery!
(When using the remote control, the starter engages for 3 seconds.)

At the time we un-packed the generator a few months ago, we connected the wires to the start battery and fitted the cover.
Cranked it once with the key, then with the remote control â€" was working fine.
When I tried it again about 3 weeks ago, I found the battery dead as the proverbial
“door nail”!
It measured only 2.86V!
Yet, the ignition key was in the OFF position all that time.

In other words, something has totally drained the battery despite the key being in the OFF position.
I managed to fully revive that battery with my HV capacitive battery charger.
Then, with the ignition key in the OFF position, I connected the battery again with a current meter in series.
I measured 8mA.
No wonder the poor battery was completely drained!

I suspect that other generator brands/models may have the same problem.
My advise is that if you get an electric start generator, don’t connect the battery until you are ready to use it!
I can only assume that the battery is charged when the generator is running so it won’t go flat during normal use.
Still, I consider this to be a design ‘flaw’.
So, again, be aware of this.

I also have two LARGE, 12V, 150Ah batteries for running a 1700W inverter for starting the system.

For the ignition/injection control circuit, I needed to know the number of revolutions during cranking, so I performed some “dry run” tests.  (cranking ONLY, NO fuel)

By the way, the starter motor is rated at 12V â€" 0.4kW  (~34A current)
Using the remote control to crank the engine with the supplied 9AH battery, I measured a peak (in-rush) current of 126A!
The number of crank shaft revolutions were 24 for the 3 seconds cranking.

With one of the large 150AH batteries, I got 28 revolutions for the 3 seconds of cranking.
Peak (in-rush) current was 196A!!
(You can read about WHY the number of revolutions are important in my
“Circuit description for Electronic Ignition V.5”)

Best regards,
Les Banki