batteries without metal electrodes and just cheap graphite and TiO2

[ibpointless2]

ib are you using your meter on AC or DC?  Sorry to ask as I assume DC but I can't quite make it out on your meter pic.  I'm curious what sort of reading you get on AC if you are normally using DC.  I forget if you have a scope but if so have you put the output onto a scope yet?  I'm just thinking of things that might give some clues as to where the voltage is coming from.  On a DC meter I can get about 0.12 volts just by grabbing the leads.  If I set them down it reads 0.000 with an occasional blip to 0.002 volts.  On AC I don't seem to see much difference between me and background readings.  BTW my left hand seems to be positive LOL  (I'm right handed).  Lots of odd places to find millivolts.

It is DC. I've tried AC but i get nothing. I don't have a scope, but I am looking to get one, does anyone know where I can get a affordable Scope?

[ibpointless2]

@ibpointless2:

I am not against your experiments. But I did the experiment as depicted in the photos of my last post according to one of your videos. I used aluminium wire and distiled water in a plastic cup, as in your video. And I am reporting what I see.

Today (after the "cell" was shorted over night):

When the aluminium wires are in the distiled water I get about 90 mV and when at least one aluminium wire is out of the distiled water I get up to 110 mV.

The meter is in DC-setting, with AC-setting I get zero Volt. (The meter has to be in DC-setting to see electro smog, acting like a diode receiver.) Today my readings are higher because air humidity is rather high today.

When I move around the measurements change drastically down to 10 mV, which strengthens my suspicion that I see electro smog.

I have no idea why you are getting other results with the same materials (aluminium wire, distiled water, plastic cup). It must be the location or the aluminium wire has some oxidation. It is hard to see oxidation on an aluminium wire, but it usually develops as a very fine layer. There might be some grease on your wire from the production process. I treated my aluminium wire with sand paper because it is 20 years old (left over from the construction of my aluminium garden fence some time ago).

It is also possible that your meter acts differently in comparison to mine. They definitely are of a different make.

Greetings, Conrad

The High voltage is due to me trying different arrangement of wire. I went through about 50 plates until I found some that would produce good voltage together. If its electronic smog then why do the cells still work when in a Faraday cage? I have played with your idea of electronic smog before but it usually required a diode somewhere because its radio waves. I do find it odd that you still get voltage when one plate is out of the water, when I do that the cell looses power. It is nice to see that your cells go up in voltage when left shorted out too. When you move around it might be because you don't have your plates glue down. Also try to have one plate barely touching the water and tell me what you get. As for the oxidation of aluminum it happens as so as the aluminum touches the air so it safe to say that both plates are oxidized.

Now one thing, instead of aluminum try pencil lead. Pencil lead which is graphite will work too and its not a metal. 

I don't believe the voltage is coming from electronic smog, but is nice to have someone put forth an idea where it might be coming from so thank you. Even if it was from electronic smog that would not be that bad because it would be like recycle electricity. I think something very different is going on here.

[ibpointless2]

To help people better understand the same metal water battery think of it as a capacitor. A capacitor has two aluminum plates separated by a dielectric. My cells have two aluminum plates separated by distilled water, and distilled water can be a dielectric. My cell are capacitors that have never been charged, I don't recommend you charge my cells because it will harm the plates but they do take a charge. I never charge my cells because I won't the electricity that they hold when they're first made. My cells act a lot like capacitors, like when you first buy a capacitor or have a capacitor shorted out they sometimes still show voltage, they call this dielectric absorption. The true definition of of dielectric absorption has to do with capacitors charged up and then shorted out and once short is removed they still show a faction of the original voltage. Dielectric absorption is still called a phenomenon by most because it still not fully understood. There I believe lies the answer to my cells, not the dielectric absorption, but the fact that two plates put into a dielectric will produce a voltage. So the voltage I believe comes from the plates in water and we're seeing some type of dielectric absorption that didn't require a charge in the first place. The charge could be static or magnetic and thats why it changes for some. The charge could be coming it surrounding environment. The charge could be coming from the water, water still is a mystery to us just watch the documentary http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOAnBg0PMUM&feature=related

I do think that a dielectric substance when exposed to metal plates will trigger a charge from somewhere or something. 

[conradelektro]

I just did some tests with graphite on paper and distiled water.

The measurements are totally inconsistent. The meter moves from - to + and from 0 to 80 mV. With two different digital meters (always on DC setting).

If I let the probes stick into the air, I consistently get about 50 mV (now at 18:00). This changes over day and night (I guess according to air humidity).

Well, I do not have any luck with this. It needs more patience than I can muster.

Greetings, Conrad

[e2matrix]

It is DC. I've tried AC but i get nothing. I don't have a scope, but I am looking to get one, does anyone know where I can get a affordable Scope?

I've gotten 3 of them off fleaBay.  All were good deals but just take your time and wait for the right deal, check sellers feedback.  There is enough of them out there it's not too hard to find a good one if you spend a couple hours looking.  20 Mhz or under should be an easy find for under $100.  One I got was a 400 MHz digital Phillips/Fluke for $350 all purchased about 8 years ago and I'll assume like all electronics they are getting better deals and lower in price as years go by.