Can someone explain this Bedini circuit?

[supermuble]

Can someone please explain to me why SW1 has an additional transistor, to trigger the circuit, while the other side of the circuit diagram (SW2) does not have this extra transistor. I am sure there is an obvious answer but I can't figure it out. 

[weizisky]

for 180° phase shift

[mscoffman]

Can someone please explain to me why SW1 has an additional transistor, to trigger the circuit, while the other side of the circuit diagram (SW2) does not have this extra transistor. I am sure there is an obvious answer but I can't figure it out. 

It looks to me that he simply drew in the monolithic circuit detail for hall effect
sensor #1 but he excluded that same details for hall effect sensor position #2.
The transistor is internal to the circuit, really probably an amplifier instead.
They are meant to be identical components. Notice the lack of written values
for the two resistors at the base of the sensor #1. Yet both signal circuits have
a 1K resistor out. The physical switch at S#1 doesn't really exist. Both sensors
are triggered magnetically by moving permanent magnets. (kind of like an amplified
reed switch concept-except, that is not how hall effect switches work internally).
The balance of the rest of the circuit is called an "H bridge". It runs current in
opposite directions through the drive coil (not both at the same time). You should
call this a Bipolar Bedini circuit because of this bidirectional current, rather than
a Monopolar Bedini circuit where the transistor get cut off for 1/2 cycle.  The circuit
appears correct to function, but I haven't analyzed it in detail.

:S:MarkSCoffman

[dogood]

I am new to this Forum and to overunity alternatives.
My first experiment was to build a Bedini SSG bifiler one coil system.  used Daftman schematic.
It seems to work ok.
The neon light does not shut off, but has a steady glow, no matter what battery combination I use for charge and run or how I adjust the pot to find sweet spot.
I am using 12 volt 7amp batteries.
The run battery discharges very slowly, the charge battery charges faster.
BUT, the charge battery, as I have learned cannot be used as a run battery.
It seems to have 11 volts, but near zero amps. Can't even get a spark.
Am I doing something wrong?
Isn't the charge battery supposed to gain a usable charge?

Current coil 26/23 ga wires 450 turns
Also tried 26/23 ga wires 900 turns - problems of burning out pot or resistor
4 neo magnets mounted to hard drive disks, n pole out.


Please advise, is this just non-sense or is this a useful technology
what am I doing wrong. 
Thanks in advance

[hoptoad]

snip..
BUT, the charge battery, as I have learned cannot be used as a run battery...
It seems to have 11 volts, but near zero amps. Can't even get a spark.
Am I doing something wrong?
Isn't the charge battery supposed to gain a usable charge?
snip...

It sounds an awful lot like your charge battery is Kapoot - No good.

Yes you should be able to deliver real charge into your load battery, but don't let the fact that your load battery voltage seems to rise quicker than the drop in supply battery voltage fool you. This occurs because the spikes delivered by the collapsing magnetic field produce higher voltages than the supply, and this higher voltage will show up as a ghost voltage (surface charge) on the charging battery.

The amount of current going into the charge battery is never as high as the current being delivered from the supply, so the supply will run down eventually. Even when you swap the batteries over, the now charged up supply battery will still discharge quicker than the charging rate of the (previously discharged) load battery.

Batteries are charge accumulators, not voltage accumulators, and higher voltages (with lower currents) than the supply voltage will only create a ghosted (surface charge), higher voltage on the load battery, but will not actually provide more current to the load battery than that which is supplied by the source battery to the whole circuit.

Cheers