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Overunity Machines Forum



Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

Started by 27Bubba, September 18, 2012, 02:17:22 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 134 Guests are viewing this topic.

d3x0r

Quote from: John.K1 on November 09, 2014, 05:16:15 AM
Thanks d3x0R.. I c now what you mean.
right and if you had a divider that was like a flipflop so one signal was gated one way and the next time another... then that would work too....

magpwr

Quote from: John.K1 on November 09, 2014, 03:16:59 AM
Well,
I didn't move more far yet from last time.  I have made basic tuning to grounded 1.87MHz, to get my 220V 25W light bulb ON.  I just got my IR2153 which I am going to use for my Push-pull I will make today.
I am not good in electronics yet, but can somebody tell me why do I see so "Many parts"  designs for push-Pull? Can I just connect my small of-shelf 555  based oscillator via Schmitt trigger opto-couples? 

MagPwr- that's stripes are in opposite direction -right? Could it be made from Aluminium foil? :)

The ferrite bar- as you can see on the picture below I put just some turns of wire.  What effect we are expecting? How to tune it if we do not know what to expect?  Ruslan said About Akula he was using it to tune the frequency (yes or not? ) . I do no see any effect on frequency myself. Maybe I have something wrong. Ruslan also said about this ferrite bar -(freely translated :) ) - " It will be a pain in an ass, but you will need to work on it. There can be 5,6 maybe 8 turns...."    So, do we need to put as much of turns as it will start to influence the frequency or what ever other effects?? Probably the best way to see if it works is to see it on brightness of the bulb?


I was reading some build tips about Tesla coil, If I right understand the most optimal or efficient is "square design" - the length of coil as its diameter. Latter I will experiment with bigger diameter. Also, as my frequency is below 2MHz- the current runs in around 0.047mm skin depth- why is Ruslan using quite heavy wire? ( I use Ø0.31)

Thanks

hi John.K1,

Copper strip is better choice since you can easily solder.But i don't see any issue using aluminum strip.
Yes the strip are wound opposite direction of the secondary winding as per circuit diagram -Ibrahim .

John.K1

Quote from: Jeg on November 09, 2014, 05:21:40 AM
Thanks T1000 :)
It is just i have not enough space with my current setup. But anyway today i will make my tesla again on the other side.. It was more to mention a possible usage of the opposite wire turns at the top of tesla.

John, i called it magnetic interaction for everyone to understand. You can call it emission of particles. From south you emit positives, and from north negatives. (see magnetic currents, Ed. Leedskalnin) See Urfa's video how strong interaction this is, even when he disconnects his radiator.

Jeg,  I do no see much other options than to completely shield Tesla coil :D   No seriosly- When I take a neon tester it still lights at around 20-25cm from the coil. 

John.K1

Quote from: d3x0r on November 09, 2014, 05:27:12 AM
right and if you had a divider that was like a flipflop so one signal was gated one way and the next time another... then that would work too....

d3x0R  - you got it   - I can divide it by 3 and will have On -pause - ON. It will work.

Jeg

Quote from: John.K1 on November 09, 2014, 05:33:05 AM
Jeg,  I do no see much other options than to completely shield Tesla coil :D 

you have a point on here...  ;)