Overunity.com Archives is Temporarily on Read Mode Only!



Free Energy will change the World - Free Energy will stop Climate Change - Free Energy will give us hope
and we will not surrender until free energy will be enabled all over the world, to power planes, cars, ships and trains.
Free energy will help the poor to become independent of needing expensive fuels.
So all in all Free energy will bring far more peace to the world than any other invention has already brought to the world.
Those beautiful words were written by Stefan Hartmann/Owner/Admin at overunity.com
Unfortunately now, Stefan Hartmann is very ill and He needs our help
Stefan wanted that I have all these massive data to get it back online
even being as ill as Stefan is, he transferred all databases and folders
that without his help, this Forum Archives would have never been published here
so, please, as the Webmaster and Creator of these Archives, I am asking that you help him
by making a donation on the Paypal Button above.
You can visit us or register at my main site at:
Overunity Machines Forum



Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

Started by 27Bubba, September 18, 2012, 02:17:22 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 144 Guests are viewing this topic.

NickZ

  Void:
   I get the best lumin levels when I use two or three 100w, 120v bulbs. So, I'm trying to tune the circuit to that, using different tuning caps, and further adjusting the yoke's output frequency with the use of one or more magnetite magnets.  I also place ferrite pieces inside of the grenade tube, as well as ferrite pieces inside the Kacher pipe, and I've added some more tuning caps at the bulbs.  I can now get the thing to stop ringing, and go into the higher non audible frequencies, as well.  Still a long road ahead...
  Void, maybe the Mazilli crt is not able to output more than 200-300 watts, or so.  That's what it looks like, for now.

  I'm trying to get a pc based 20mhz scope, to connect to my second pc, for now. Along with a 100x scope probe, both for less than $100. Which is what I can afford, for now.  I'm still looking locally for an analog scope though, as well.

   

lost_bro


lost_bro

Quote from: lost_bro on March 30, 2015, 06:04:53 PM
Quote from: NickZ on March 29, 2015, 02:37:05 PM
   Lost_bro:
   So, if I raise the input voltage from 12v to 24v, will the current draw be reduced by 1/2.  Or not? 
   I'm trying to find a solution to the fet overheating issue, still.  So, if by raising the voltage will not help the overheating, let me know. 
    The total power drawn may be the same, but the overheating may or may not be reduced.

 
Hi NickZ

Well there are two sides to every coin:

To make the math very easy.... assume 100% efficiency;   (real life losses not included)

Take a 12vdc-120VAC inverter providing 1200watts @ 120VAC for example:

P/E=I

1200watts output/12vdc input = 100amps;


Now take a 24vdc-120VAC inverter providing the *same* 1200watts @ 120VAC:

P/E=I

1200watts output/ 24vdc input = 50amps;

Here we have increased the INPUT VOLTAGE by a factor of 2 and REDUCED the Amps Consumed by 1/2 for the *SAME* load!

Yes! that's right..... the 24VDC-120VAC inverter will consume 1/2 the amperage of the 12VDC-120VAC at the *SAME* load.

This IS how it WORKS!

Now:  We know that we are talking about 2 different inverters of course..... 

We also know that you CANNOT just take a 12 vdc -120VAC inverter and hook it up to 24VDC! (unless you are making a magic smoke generator)

So:    Both the 12VDC and 24VDC inverters have different size inductors / XFRMRs and exhibit different winding ratios, impedance's, etc......

But the basic fact regarding the relationship between INPUT VOLTAGE and AMPEREs CONSUMED cannot be denied.  (otherwise know as Ohm's Law)



take care, peace
lost_bro

NickZ

  Ok, Bro, I get it, what had confused me was when Hoppy mentioned that using the 220v bulbs would cut the wattage used by 1/2, and then I added my wishful thinking into it.
 
   I just did a little test... to see what happens when I disconnect one of the two output lines that go to the bulbs. I left one line connected, and the other line was connected only to my 37.5 meter earth ground. I was able to light a 40 watt bulb, along with a 220v microwave bulb, in parallel. I don't know what that may mean, or what the amps to ground are,  as I haven't measured it yet.

lost_bro

Quote from: NickZ on March 30, 2015, 09:53:40 PM
  Ok, Bro, I get it, what had confused me was when Hoppy mentioned that using the 220v bulbs would cut the wattage used by 1/2, and then I added my wishful thinking into it.
 
   I just did a little test... to see what happens when I disconnect one of the two output lines that go to the bulbs. I left one line connected, and the other line was connected only to my 37.5 meter earth ground. I was able to light a 40 watt bulb, along with a 220v microwave bulb, in parallel. I don't know what that may mean, or what the amps to ground are,  as I haven't measured it yet.

Hi NickZ
Is your set-up battery powered?   No mains connection at any point?
Are both incandescent bulbs?
It would be interesting to measure the amperes to ground......

EDIT;  Does the input current change when running the bulbs with the single wire/ ground wire configuration?

take care, peace
lost_bro