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Overunity Machines Forum



Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

Started by 27Bubba, September 18, 2012, 02:17:22 PM

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0 Members and 219 Guests are viewing this topic.

NickZ

  Tomtech:
  The 28 turns of the right gauge wire (14 gauge) will not fit into the smaller yokes. My yoke is 3 3/8 inch at the base, but now measures 3 7/8 inches with all the three coils wound on it.
  The smaller yoke, of less than that 3 3/8 inch size was discarded (as not working well) by Akula and replaced with the larger one that he uses now, as from the first video of a self runner, on.

  Tom the idea is to try to replicate the coils, as close as possible to what was shown to work. The 24v input will hopefully allow the fets to possibly run cooler, since the 12v input would heat my fets to not touchable levels, in less than one minute running.
Also, the higher input source of 24v will allow me access to those running frequencies that will allow the device to self run. I hope.
  The feed-back path is tuned for higher than 24v output.  To 28 or 30v, to allow the voltage drop once the device is turned on.
  The 120v or 220 volt PS will also drop in amperage by several watts, when there is a high draw on it. The one that I'm buying is rated at 90% efficiency. Although that may not really be the case, as the PS can drop from 24v while drawing only 3 amps down to 21v, instead. And while drawing 6 amps can bring it down to only 12v, or so.  This is what was found on the reviews of the PS.

  The IRFP260N mosfets are only rated at 280 watts, so even if drawing only that much amperage, they will heat up. And, if a higher load is placed on them, they will go up in smoke. Even with heat-sinks, fans, and all.


  I believe that my Mazilli snubber circuit that I use, also may need more adjustments. But, I'd love to replace that it, with a fully adjustable PWM, and frequency controller. I'm not too concerned about the PLL, for now. But, I will possibly included it later.
  For the moment, I'm looking first, for the basic self running "effect".

  Dog-One: You can change and further adjust the grenade/yoke's running frequency (fine tuned), to some degree, by placing ferrite into the PVC pipe. Also the same goes for the Kacher.  This way the target running frequency can be maintained and adjusted for the different loads that are placed on it, by placing ferrite pieces or ferrite toroids into the pvc pipe, and moving it around a bit.  Otherwise, I don't think that the PLL is really going to fully be able do it's job, very effectively, maintaining within a 100khz bandwidth. 

Dog-One

Quote from: NickZ on July 28, 2015, 09:56:18 AM
  Dog-One: You can change and further adjust the grenade/yoke's running frequency to some degree, by placing ferrite into the PVC pipe. Also the same goes for the Kacher.  This way the target running frequency can be maintained and adjusted for the different loads that are placed on it, by placing ferrite pieces or ferrite toroids into the pvc pipe, and moving it around a bit.

My whole system is locked at 17.8KHz.  You can put anything you want into the PVC pipe and the frequency stays the same.  Putting something in there simply knocks the amplitude down by drifting off the peak Q point and/or flattening the Q factor.  When you put current sense transformers on both the induction heater coil and the grenade coil, then insert something metallic into the air core, you will notice on the scope the peak amplitude going down.  You will also notice the phase difference between these two coils changes.  In the optimal condition the phase difference is 90 degrees which is to be expected.

Tomtech29

 :)
"When you have maximum amplitude sine wave current flowing through the induction heater coil, you can place a steel screw driver into the tube.  The screw driver heats up no problem.  When you do this, the amplitude coming out of the current sense transformer drops by about 30-50 %"
-so I connected the 100 watt bulb I set high amplitude when plugged another 100 watt light bulb on ammeter see almost zero power consumption and despite tuning in search of another resonance light bulbs with the main power of 200 Watt did not want to shine.
since the push-pull on (Tl494) system that works so badly it seems to me that Mazilli will work in a somewhat similar effect?
a lot of talk about the push-pull with the input of PLL whether it really plays up the differences?
if there is another reason for the low efficiency of the output?

NickZ

  Tomtech:
  I don't think that there is much similarity between your set up and mine. As mine has been able can light 7 or more 100w bulbs, on 12v.  Of course, the fets don't like it.

  Dog:  Ruslan has shown on his video that his Kacher's circuit can be affected by placing ferrite into it. My kacher will not even light without ferrite. Or it will light a CFL just barely, with out it.
  But, Ruslan has not shown what doing that with ferrite cores does to his grenade's output though.  I would imagine that it would change it, as well. It does on mine. But, he can adjust that frequency with his induction driver board.  And I can't.
 
  Tom: If you can't light a 200w bulb, without the kacher connected, or with it, there may be something wrong there.
Most of the guys can only light about 150 watts worth of bulbs, to even half grid brightness levels. Adding more bulbs, only lowers the actual lumin levels.   
   

Tomtech29

we are talking here only about the configuration:


the problem arises when it exceeds the value of 150Wat bulb another 50 watts, and here I have a problem
This limit is the maximum load another light bulb on 230 volts completely closes the circuit!