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Overunity Machines Forum



Re-Inventing The Wheel-Part1-Clemente_Figuera-THE INFINITE ENERGY MACHINE

Started by bajac, October 07, 2012, 06:21:28 PM

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0 Members and 18 Guests are viewing this topic.

gyulasun

Hi Carroll,
This is the direct link to your  #2721 post:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/12439-re-inventing-wheel-part1-clemente_figuera-91.html#post312259 
Have you tried copy and paste the text to your above post for instance? or you mean you did but then you found nothing happened?  Maybe Stefan restricted the maximum number of characters recently...  it would not be good.
Gyula
EDIT  perhaps try to split the text into two or three parts and bring the pictures too.

citfta


Okay,



My testing shows this may be a possible way to make a much simpler part G.  And it should be very easy to scale this up.  I modified a universal motor to give me the opposing sine waves that do NOT go below zero.  The following pictures and description should allow anyone to do this without a lot of machining or other expense.



As most of you know a universal motor will run on DC or AC because it has field windings that change polarity in time with the armature windings.  Be disconnecting the field windings we now have an armature and two brushes.  To modify the motor you need to mark where on the output shaft the bearing is sitting.  Now take the motor apart and grind a flat side on the shaft the extends beyond the area where the bearing was.  How deep you need to grind the flat spot will depend on what gauge wire you are going to use.  We are going to run a wire from one of the commutator tabs through one of the slots in the armature and then down to the output shaft and into the flat area you ground on the output shaft.  The wire needs to extend well past the bearing area.



After you put some glue similar to Goop or rubber cement on the wire in the flat area then you slide the front of the motor back onto the shaft and bolt the motor back together.  The glue is to keep the wire from moving around and rubbing the insulation off the wire in the area of the bearing.  You can see how I did this in the picture number 4 if you look closely.



Next you need to make a slip ring of some kind.  I used a wooden dowel and my lathe to drill a hole dead center in the dowel that was slightly smaller than the motor shaft.  I then turned the outside of the dowel until it was a very snug fit inside a short piece of copper fitting. I put glue on the dowel and then pressed the copper fitting onto the dowel.  I then put glue on the motor shaft and inside the dowel and pressed the dowel onto the motor shaft.



After that glue has dried then you need to solder the wire to the side of the copper fitting.  I believe you can also see that in one of the pictures.  Now you need to make some kind of brush holder to hold a brush that will contact the slip ring you have made.  You can see I just took an old broken brush holder from a junk motor and some hot glue and a couple of pieces of wood to make a quick brush holder.  Of course something much better made would be necessary for a real part G.  This was just a quick and dirty method to test my idea.



To connect this as a part G you would connect you supply lead to the brush holder for the brush going to the slip ring.  Then from each of the original brushes you would connect to the two primary coils of your device.  I should mention that the original brushes are not connected to anything else once you disconnect them from the original field coils.



Now you just need a way to power your new part G the same as you had to do to the original part G.  For my simple tests I just use my portable electric drill.  I tightened my chuck up on the end of the motor shaft and then powered it that way.



I have included some pictures of both ends of the motor and also a scope shot of the signals going to each coil.  The slower part G turns the less effect it has on the DC voltage.  And of course the faster it turns the
more effect it has to the point you can actually see the signal go almost to zero just from the inductance effect.



The signal on the scope looks pretty rough with lots of spikes. Obviously the commutator and brushes are not working real well.  But this was only a quick and dirty test of my idea.  But you can see that you do have two opposing sine waves.  Also this was a very cheap little universal motor.



I believe you could scale this up easily by getting something like a treadmill motor.  I am pretty sure almost all of them are DC permanent magnet motors.  You would have to remove the magnets of course.  We don't want a generator. LOL  But you would then have a well built part G with precision brushes and commutator.  You would only need to be careful building your slip ring and brush holder.



Maybe this simple idea will help some of you that want to work on the Figuera device but were scared off because to the difficulty of building a part G from scratch.



Carroll

Well, it will let me post the text as long as I don't try to attach the pictures.  But the pictures are only fairly small jpg pictures.  I will try to attach them one at a time to some posts.

citfta


citfta

Thanks Gyula for the help and suggestions.  My program that was supposed to resize the pictures didn't work the first time so they were too big.  After I realized that, I was able to resize them again and get them to work.

marathonman

Seaad;
my C core is only wire wound around 1 half of the C core that is wrapped around the top and bottom of 1 C. the other half is just to close the core. wrapping wire all around the core is a waste of money, wire and time. not only that the fields in each half will be opposing thus cancels each other out so no current control at all.
Cifta;
those spikes are huge and will mess with the pressure between the primaries. if that is not fixed you will not be able to maintain the required pressure between the primaries. you also need to realize that the primaries are taken down just enough to clear the secondary the back to full potential. if it is reduce to much induction will fail and the output will be reduced to just the rising electromagnet.

I just use Paint in windows to resize all my pics, works well.

Regards,
Marathonman