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Overunity Machines Forum



KapaNoDrawBack circuit from a German friend

Started by hartiberlin, May 12, 2014, 11:01:18 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

NoDrawBack

You wrote:
>I would suggest replacing the thin coil L1, L2 assembly with a copper cylinder
>to see if it still works. The copper cylinder should have a vertical slot 
I prepared such a coil already but unwinding/rewindiing has to be done.... time lacks....

Will reply to your suggestion tomorrow  (travelling right now)

Meanwhile some results from yesterday to think about:

NickZ

  This circuit looks to me as if the main coils are very inefficient and can't even light the small 7 watt bulb to close to full brightness. And the addition of the copper tube adds inductance which enables the bulb to light brighter, and also causing a higher draw.
I don't see anything special about this though. Not self running, and still draining it's source. It's also possible that the meter does read accurately what's really going on, and the additional draw is not showing up on the meter. 
  More light also normally means a higher draw, which will also drain the battery quicker. The test is to see how long it takes to drain a battery, with or without the copper rod.  I suspect the battery will drain much quicker with the rod in place. Unlike what is being shown by the meter.

Vortex1

Quote from: NoDrawBack on May 14, 2014, 09:06:25 AM
You wrote:
>I would suggest replacing the thin coil L1, L2 assembly with a copper cylinder
>to see if it still works. The copper cylinder should have a vertical slot 
I prepared such a coil already but unwinding/rewindiing has to be done.... time lacks....

Will reply to your suggestion tomorrow  (travelling right now)

Meanwhile some results from yesterday to think about:

I'm not suggesting that you unwind or rewind, L1, L2, rather remove the entire tube containing L1, L2 and replace it with the slotted copper cylinder.

I will think about your new results.

Enjoy your travel, no hurry.

Regards, Vortex1

Free.Energy

Quote from: NoDrawBack on May 14, 2014, 03:18:40 AM
you wrote:
>1. Apply DC from your power supply of at least 15v to coil L3
Results:
- With increasing DC current the output drops down to ZERO at 3A
- By varying frequency i was not able to find another useful resonance point with high output
- The resistance of the input coil increased significantly  (Current raised from 0.5A to 3.0A (power supply maximum))

thanks for your test

Can you repeat this test with the polarity reversed?  Does the output drop to ZERO regardless of the polarity of DC to L3?

thanks much

magpwr

Quote from: NickZ on May 14, 2014, 09:57:51 AM
  This circuit looks to me as if the main coils are very inefficient and can't even light the small 7 watt bulb to close to full brightness. And the addition of the copper tube adds inductance which enables the bulb to light brighter, and also causing a higher draw.
I don't see anything special about this though. Not self running, and still draining it's source. It's also possible that the meter does read accurately what's really going on, and the additional draw is not showing up on the meter. 
  More light also normally means a higher draw, which will also drain the battery quicker. The test is to see how long it takes to drain a battery, with or without the copper rod.  I suspect the battery will drain much quicker with the rod in place. Unlike what is being shown by the meter.

hi NickZ,

The suspicion on high current draw which doesn't allow the meter to reveal the current spikes can be quelled easily by using a large capacitor around 1000uf...4700uf at the circuit input.
I have previously created a youtube "HV to current convertor 2.0" where current draw do not surge upon shorting 5 turns windings.There isn't any increase in current drawn via 1000uf capacitor at input.


The above experiment for this topic is valid.Quite similar concept to the "E-stress" device