Partnered Output Coils - Free Energy

[EMJunkie]

Someone posted results, the setup is still on his bench,  let's debate that instead.

@Alan,

yes exactly!!!

@ALL

I am going to ask for something.

Can anyone working on this, I ask you to please keep extra-ordinary results to themselves, please 

The reason will become evident later on. Most will already know the reason why!

Please describe what you're seeing, any observations and or any improvements you've made and so on. But I ask you please to keep OU Results to yourself for a while.

Just until we get the ball rolling.

Kind Regards

   Chris Sykes - hyiq.org
   To Reach New Horizons!

[EMJunkie]

Hi folks, Hi emjunkie, well just fired it up and i am using an led bulb to see if it can power things, it lights the led bulb well.
When i use a wire to short the partnered secondary coils, the amp draw lowers from 360 milliamps while powering led bulb down to 260 milliamps using 3.7 volt input.
My other setup did not do this when a dead short was applied across partnered coils.
So does this sound like the right behavior so far, emjunkie.
Here is a pic of it.
peace love light

@ALL,

SkyWatcher123 has done an excellent job of replicating my experiment! Start at the start, this is the perfect example!

Already SkyWatcher123 is seeing results that are fantastic!

This really is how simple it is!

Some basic Rules:
1: Check Turns Direction's, Phase on each Coil, making sure the phase's add to each other not cancel.
2: Try gapping the Core slightly after trying with no Gap first.
3: Check for any Coil Insulation issues where a short may occur.
4: Try rebuilding again with a fresh mind.
5: Check Frequency, try starting at about 400Hz and slowly move up or down!
6: Check One of the Partnered Output Coils for an Output
7: Ask for help! 

Remember there are 3 Configurations that work that I have found, but I have only covered two of them! I will cover the other configuration at a later stage.

Well Done SkyWatcher123! Nice work!

Kind Regards

   Chris Sykes - hyiq.org
   To Reach New Horizons!

[MileHigh]

I said that I was going to wait until some people started reporting results so I could comment but I can see that this thread is in serious trouble so I am going to make comments in order to hopefully get it on track.  I am going to be real with no gloss so please just deal with it.

Chris, if you don't show your build details, your measurement techniques, and your results, then it's highly unlikely that you are going to win over anyone so that they will be willing to replicate your project and effectively you will be killing this thread yourself.  Get your transformer out of your box, do the setup and fully document what you are doing on this thread with tabular results including all input and output waveforms and power calculations, and with one or more credible YouTube clips.  That is clearly what your your audience wants.  Your links are vague and very general and frankly in terms of helping people to do a successful replication, they suck.

Skywatcher123 is lighting an LED light bulb.  I am going to assume that it's an LED light bulb with the electronic guts still in it.  That is not the setup.  First of all, if it was an LED light bulb stripped of guts, then you should all know at this point that it's essentially impossible to measure the power going into an LED.   If the LED light bulb still has the electronic guts that are designed to convert 120 VAC into DC, then it's doubly impossible and basically nonsensical.  Skywatcher123 should take Chris's advice and get rid of the LED light bulb and start experimenting with different values of load resistor and a true-RMS multimeter.  The LED light bulb is nothing more than instant-gratification eye candy and should be completely ignored for this project.  Also, these comments from Skywatcher123, "the amp draw lowers from 360 milliamps while powering led bulb down to 260 milliamps using 3.7 volt input."  The input to this device is by definition an AC waveform, and from what he says in the quoted text it looks like he is talking about DC measurements.  So it would appear that something is not making sense.

TK and Picowatt are absolutely correct that you must use DC coupling on your scope.  Their knowledge and experience with with respect to electronics and power measurement far surpasses Chris' knowledge.  All of you, starting with Chris himself, would be fools to ignore their advice.

Chris's comments about keeping your results to yourself should be ignored if you have any common sense.  This is an open-source forum and that's the very reason you are here in the first place.

If there are people that intend to replicate, you actually should start talking about what you are going to do right now in this thread.  You absolutely have to be honest about your knowledge, experience, and skill level.  If you need help, don't be shy and ask for it - don't be a faker.  The most critical thing that you can talk about right now, before you even build it, is precisely how you intend to make your input and output power measurements.  That is what this entire thread is all about.  I'm pretty sure a lot of you will not know how to do it properly, and if you are lucky, people like TK and Picowatt may be willing to give you some solid advice and proper guidance.

From the way this project looks, the build itself is fairly trivial.  Therefore, this project is weighted 80% towards measurements and 20% on the build.

Like I said a few days ago, keep your eye on the ball.  Many people have posted semi-related links or alternative circuits and quite frankly that is counter-productive bullshit.  You know who you are.  Stick to the circuit as suggested by Chris and like I said, the most productive discussion that any of you can have right now before you do a build is how to do your measurements properly.

Do you guys want another RomeroUK farce?  I don't think you do.

MileHigh

[SkyWatcher123]

Hi folks, thanks for the kind words emjunkie.
The primary inducer is just a joule thief (blocking oscillator) at the moment.
The non-modified led bulb was just to see if any juice was coming out.
I disconnected the led bulb and placed a direct short across partnered coils and the amp draw lowers as stated.
That is all i can say for now about the way it is setup, which is different than any joule thief with secondary i have ever played with.
Go ahead and try it, make a regular joule thief with secondary and short the secondary, the amp draw will definitely increase.
My next approach at this, will be using the simple inverter circuit with two transistors to power the primary inducer, this will give an alternating ac type input.
peace love light

[wistiti]

Hi Sky and Em. I am waiting to recive my ferrite rod before i can try with the reed switch....
But until then i will try your way sky (joule thief primary) on a tv yoke. I am tinking to wind each partner secondary on is respective half of the yoke and then wound the bifilar primary over one partner coil(or one half yoke). Anyway,surely a good way to learn
Any advise are welcome!
Ps: sorry for the quite mesurement; im just equip with some dmm...