Partnered Output Coils - Free Energy

[TinselKoala]

The idea of a fixed loss to ambient test is to use the Ambient as the loss mechanism ,not to insulate against it.
I like to run two tests at the same time in the same environment.
say two 3x3 sealed cardboard boxes ,one has the resistor in it  ,the other the Device.

for argument sake lets put Wistisi's  DUT to the test

he has 700 watts in and 900 watts out...in my control box I put my heat resistor with the 700 watt input
in the other box I put the device which makes 900 watts with 700 watts input.

both Boxes have 700 watts input and will reach a maximum temperature against the cold night air, which the ambient losses will not allow the temp to rise past.

in this case one box should get MUCH hotter than the control .



a very quick and very cheap method to help validate a claim and help rule out measurement error.

@ Note certain things can bring in energy unbeknownst to the inventor [ equipment can inadvertently add power [flea power]]
but ground loops can be more serious sources of apparent excess energy.

that is why working with those more familiar with these problems can be most helpful .


respectfully

Chet

Yep, do this. Here in Northeast Aztlan we prefer to use boxes with lower thermal leak rates since this will minimize errors. There are plenty of styrofoam beer coolers around that can be cut up and reglued together to make nice calorimeter boxes for this kind of experiment.

For an example of this kind of technique you can dig out my old Ainslie test videos, where I use a camera on a timer to record the temperature values of a calorimeter container. Here's a video where I describe the system and do a shakedown of the system to get a practice "Cool down" data set which could be used to determine the thermal leak rate of a container. If you know the volume of the liquid in the container, the specific heat of the liquid, and the rate of change of the temperature you can actually calculate the leak rate in Watts for a given temperature. This enables you to say, when the container reaches an equilibrium temperature, that your load is actually dissipating "x" watts. It's a quantitative system!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXH4ikaMUM0

And the data can be used to generate graphs of the comparison against a DC load where the input power is known precisely, as Chet suggests and as shown in the graph from an early Ainslie experiment below.

[EMJunkie]

Repeating bad measurements doesn't suddenly make them good.

The claim is something like this: The toroid takes in, say, 700 Watts and puts out 800 Watts. Right?

So connect two of them in series, with a 100 Watt bulb as an additional parallel load. That is, take the "800 watts" output of the first one, connect a 100 Watt bulb and the second toroid in parallel to the output of the first one.

Then take a third toroid and a second 100 Watt bulb and connect these to the output of the second toroid. Keep going until you are lighting, say, 10 each 100 watt bulbs to full brilliance and still measuring 800 watts output from the last toroid.

There's your "Free energy" actually doing something other than making numbers flash on a cheap consumer-grade meter. And no "NASA Engineers" need be harmed by the procedure.

Or... as I have said all along, use _proper_ measuring instruments that are properly calibrated and properly used. Then your reports may have some credibility.

TK,

Really Who here can afford equipment like this? Do you have one?

Everyone can now see, using Partnered Output Coils: Anti-Lenz effect - from: Юрий Лиховид (Yuri Likhovid)

Yuri Likhovid shows an excess Energy Gain of:

Input: 786 Watts

Output: 900 Watts

COP = 900 Watts / 786 Watts = 1.145

Now where did that --> 114 Watts FREE <-- come from? Its simply Induction, a Solid-state Electrical "Generator"!!!

I get frustrated how so many here just dismiss devices even when they have so much supporting data...

   Chris Sykes
       hyiq.org

[EMJunkie]

Yep, do this. Here in Northeast Aztlan we prefer to use boxes with lower thermal leak rates since this will minimize errors. There are plenty of styrofoam beer coolers around that can be cut up and reglued together to make nice calorimeter boxes for this kind of experiment.

For an example of this kind of technique you can dig out my old Ainslie test videos, where I use a camera on a timer to record the temperature values of a calorimeter container. Here's a video where I describe the system and do a shakedown of the system to get a practice "Cool down" data set which could be used to determine the thermal leak rate of a container. If you know the volume of the liquid in the container, the specific heat of the liquid, and the rate of change of the temperature you can actually calculate the leak rate in Watts for a given temperature. This enables you to say, when the container reaches an equilibrium temperature, that your load is actually dissipating "x" watts. It's a quantitative system!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXH4ikaMUM0

And the data can be used to generate graphs of the comparison against a DC load where the input power is known precisely, as Chet suggests and as shown in the graph from an early Ainslie experiment below.

TK, I am sorry, we have had our differences in the past... But Really...

In one breath you say: as I have said all along, use _proper_ measuring instruments that are properly calibrated and properly used. Then your reports may have some credibility.

Then you show the below Picture: Clarke Hess 2335a

Now you say a dirty old: "styrofoam beer coolers" cut up and used as a "calorimeter" with a thermometer, which in its own right can have all sorts of Thermal Drift errors depending on the time of day, how can you say that this is an accurate method after the last statement? At the same time dismissing the average IEEE Standard Regulated Mains Power Meter?

I just don't get it!

Seems we are chasing our tails with bizarre False Flags...

Most Power meters are mostly pretty accurate if used within their specified ranges. It is the job of the end user to ensure they are reading pretty accurate by meanse of Calibration or Varification however.

This I did today and Verified my scope to be correct with the Power Meter reading I performed here: Accurate Measurements on pulsed system's harder than you think.

   Chris Sykes
       hyiq.org

[EMJunkie]

Doing some research, I have found the closest meter I can to the meter in the Video: Partnered Output Coils: Anti-Lenz effect
- from: Юрий Лиховид (Yuri Likhovid)

URL: Steplight / Watts Clever Plug-in Power Meter Priced at: $24.95 AUD

•Measures from 1 to 2,400 watts.
•Also reports usage in kilo-watt hours (kWh) - what you are billed for.
•Tracks actual cost by entering your electricity tariff.
•Measures voltage, current, Power Factor and frequency (50 or 60Hz).
•Displays watts (W) and voltage (V) to one decimal place. It shows kilowatt-hours (kWh) and current in amps (A) to three decimal places.

•In-built timer to track appliance run-time.
•Internal battery ensures data is not lost when unplugged.
•Accuracy of measurements are +/- 1%.
•Power consumption of the meter is less than 0.5 watts
•It can be used with an extension cord

The key here to seeing what the real error might be is the +/- 1%

Input: 781.9 Watts = +/- 7.819 Watts Error Margin!

Output: 900.2 Watts = +/- 9.002 Watts Error Margin!

So total error margin (16.821 Watts) affecting the Input/Output using this meter is no where near the Gain of:

Input: 786 Watts

Output: 900 Watts

COP = 900 Watts / 786 Watts = 1.145

Now where did that --> 114 Watts FREE <-- come from? Its simply Induction, a Solid-state Electrical "Generator"!!!

16.821 Watts Error Margin is worst case Error according to the specs. Likely it wont be this high.

I cant give you any figures, but for your viewing pleasure: Ваттметр. Замер холодильника, компьютера, насосной станции, и т.д and the same Mains Power Meter for sale HERE

   Chris Sykes
       hyiq.org

[seychelles]

Chris the way i would do this experiment is like this.
1 Use an electric kettle of a know power consumption.
2 one litre of distill water
3 an accurate thermometer
4 one electronic power meter.
5 one stop watch

Fill the kettle with 1 litre of distill water.
put the kettle in the freezer with the thermometer monitoring the
water temperature. WHEN the water reach 1 degrees Celsius.
Connect the kettle into the 240v direct .switch the kettle  and the stop watch on while monitoring the temperature.
ALSO MONITOR THE POWER CONSUMPTION AND NOTING IT DOWN. WHEN the temperature reach 100 degrees Celsius .
STOP the stop watch note down the time..
Repeat the same above step but plugging the kettle after the transformer.
THE TIME DIFFERENCE WILL BE THE IMPORTANT DATA TO USE TO GET A CONCLUSIVE ANSWER..