Confirmation of OU devices and claims

[rickfriedrich]

Mario,
I am thinking about putting together a collection of many pictures and videos of the boat that I have not shown online. Kind of like people do on EValbum where I showed my Porsche EV conversion. I found some old files and will see what I can do. The big 1979 26' Reinell EV conversions (as I did two different motors to compare) evolved from the rider lawnmower. I started with a huge monopole model and later used the other motor that was more suitable for vehicles. Then I added two more 60 pound coils to it and put it in the old boat after I had first tested it with my forklift motor I had in the EV Honda. I later made a smaller commercial model of the motor and ran that on other boats... The idea of doing boats came from two different customers who had bought parts from me and made their own very large motors (bigger than mine) that they had on their big sale boats as their only electrical supply and means of moving when there was no wind. These guys travelled around the world and I would ship one of them parts here and there as they needed them.

I have usually used the cap dump when I have rotated the batteries around like that, unless I add something else to the front end.  In the first lawnmower I used 5 very big paralleled caps. I'll have to check (as I still have them) but I believe around 80,000 uf and at least 100V. I had a very big SCR, which I still have as well. But usually I used higher voltage, at least 450V for my setups, and tried to have flash or fast switching. After the first motor I used higher voltage.

Hi Rick,
if I may ask, with the setup on your boat (or similar setups you've used), did you charge the batteries straight negatively with conversion on the input side of circuit or did you charge the batteries with cap dump. If cap dump, at how many volts did you dump the cap?
thanks,
Mario

[Void]

For people with maybe not so much experience in 'over unity' experimentation,
I will try to explain and demonstrate here in a simple and straightforward way why just
looking at the brightness of bulbs (LED or otherwise) can't tell you anything too meaningful
or definite about how a circuit is really performing.

A picture was posted here of Rick F. lighting what looks like about 11 or 12 LED bulbs (I think
they were stated as being LED bulbs) and the stated input power to his setup was 0.864 Watts.
It was implied that lighting 11 or 12 of those bulbs fairly brightly at less than 1 Watt input power
was something that should be considered quite impressive and an indication of possible over unity (OU).

Please see the three attached photos.
Photo 01:  Picture of Rick F. lighting what looks like about 11 or 12 bulbs at a stated 0.864 Watts = 864 mW input power.

Photo 02:  My comparison of lighting a single LED bulb quite brightly.
Can you tell how much power this bulb is consuming from just looking at how bright it is? Of course you can't.
I had spots in front of my eyes from looking at this bulb when I was setting it up to take a photo of it.
It was very bright when looking at it directly.

Photo 03:  Measurement of the power consumption of my single LED bulb.
3 Volts x .02 Amps = 0.06 Watts = 60 mW

If I were to light 14 of my LED bulbs at the same time, the total power consumption of my setup would be:
14 x 60 mW = 0.840 Watts =  840 mW

I hope this simple comparison test clarifies why people are (and should be) quite skeptical of any type of circuit
arrangement supposedly being over unity without proper measurements being shown.
Don't be fooled by any max or 'equivalent' power ratings which may be specified for a given LED bulb.
Those numbers can be quite misleading.

What matters is the actual power consumption of each LED bulb being lighted while connected in the circuit setup.
You can only determine that by doing proper measurements. My rough comparison test shown in the photos below
seems to indicate that Rick's results shown in that photo do not appear to be anything too unusual,
and only if proper measurements are taken could the actual efficiency of the setup be determined with any degree of certainty.

Hope this clarifies some things.

[popolibero]

Rick,


where these the voltage ratings of the caps or did you actually dump 100 or even 450V into the battery?!! I thought batteries get ruined with such high voltage dumps,


Mario

Mario,
I am thinking about putting together a collection of many pictures and videos of the boat that I have not shown online. Kind of like people do on EValbum where I showed my Porsche EV conversion. I found some old files and will see what I can do. The big 1979 26' Reinell EV conversions (as I did two different motors to compare) evolved from the rider lawnmower. I started with a huge monopole model and later used the other motor that was more suitable for vehicles. Then I added two more 60 pound coils to it and put it in the old boat after I had first tested it with my forklift motor I had in the EV Honda. I later made a smaller commercial model of the motor and ran that on other boats... The idea of doing boats came from two different customers who had bought parts from me and made their own very large motors (bigger than mine) that they had on their big sale boats as their only electrical supply and means of moving when there was no wind. These guys travelled around the world and I would ship one of them parts here and there as they needed them.

I have usually used the cap dump when I have rotated the batteries around like that, unless I add something else to the front end.  In the first lawnmower I used 5 very big paralleled caps. I'll have to check (as I still have them) but I believe around 80,000 uf and at least 100V. I had a very big SCR, which I still have as well. But usually I used higher voltage, at least 450V for my setups, and tried to have flash or fast switching. After the first motor I used higher voltage.

[rickfriedrich]

Brad,
I've been to his home two different times, a long time ago mind you, but he was doing well as far as I could see. How do you know he is broke?

As for these guys being hooked to the grid that is a point to consider. If you have the ability why not use the technology. We tried to get Bedini to at least make an electric bike but all he wanted to do was have gas Harley's and hotrods. He gave the impression to people that he was running the shop with his systems but he never did. Mind you it would have been a big ordeal to get the three phase all done, but there wasn't anything being run at all. In all those years I was the only one that ran his machines now and then, otherwise they were collecting dust. That is why I always tried to show people practical systems actually being used. Now one of the things Bearden said to me while we were walking through his garage was that he wasn't a bench guy and didn't have anything to show me. That was 2005 and I found that strange and assumed he wasn't running his home off of this tech. I didn't get into that subject but rather what would it take for the whole country to be changed over (another subject). I don't know who these guys really were, or what their motivations were for doing what they did, and not using what they had, but we never got what they promised in 1984. They were about teasing the public with mixed information and not about using it. Bedini told me not to do the kits and I thought he was just joking around. He said to just talk and that is enough. I did my own thing and in the end I guess I went too far in what I showed.

Tom is also broke,and still hooked to the grid 
Brad

[rickfriedrich]

The high voltage is not a problem, it is the current. I moved from high uf to low. And you regulate the rate of change impulsing of the cap dump to be gentle enough, but to also allow for the ability to rotate the batteries around.
Regular cap dump pulse chargers ruin batteries over time.

Rick,
where these the voltage ratings of the caps or did you actually dump 100 or even 450V into the battery?!! I thought batteries get ruined with such high voltage dumps,
Mario