Pierre's 170W in 1600W out Looped Very impressive Build continued & moderated

[pmgr]

gotoluc:

Wonderful hard work, I know something about it

I wanted to write the same as Pierre that Arduino should be further away from the magnetic field as well as the control wires. Of course, it can work.

Majority of the magnetic field will be contained within the steel and on the inside of the stator. Anything else is leakage and probably won't be large enough too cause any issues. Try it out to see if it works. If it doesn't you can always move the Arduino farther away from the stator.
PmgR

[r2fpl]

Majority of the magnetic field will be contained within the steel and on the inside of the stator. Anything else is leakage and probably won't be large enough too cause any issues. Try it out to see if it works. If it doesn't you can always move the Arduino farther away from the stator.
PmgR

Where the coils come out of the stator is a large magnetic field. But test this position Arduino.

[Jeg]

So don't take the voltage above 7-8 volts for now.

Is that possible when he uses 12V as gate pulses? His drain voltage has to be >=12V.

Luc, this is an art-work! Well done!!! How did you pull out your stator from motor's casing?

[shylo]

Hi Luc,

Looks great, One question though, Pierre has 18 super caps (1/2 the 36 coils) , Should yours not have 15 half the 30? I only see ten.
Beautiful workmanship none the less.
Thanks artv

[gotoluc]

Amazingly nice build Luc!

What you can do as a first experiment is mount a small magnet on an axis that can rotate and place it in the middle of the stator (take the rotor out) and upload the Arduino sketch with a 1Hz frequency (x=50 in your Arduino sketch). It will then take 3secs for the magnet to spin around once (or you can decrease the x value to something else if that is too slow).

Start with a voltage as low as possible so you don't overheat any H bridges. The on-time for each bridge is in that case 3*x, so 3*50ms=150ms, off time is 17*50ms=850ms, so 15% duty cycle.

With about 0.5ohms per coil and five coils in series, that is about 2.5ohms. And then each bridge drives 2 coil sets in series, so 1.25 ohm load. So your voltage should be around 5 volts (4amps per red/black output) plus whatever is lost over two transistors inside a bridge, which is probably another 2-3 volts or so. So don't take the voltage above 7-8 volts for now.

Just see if you can get the magnet to spin around at the desired speed of the Arduino sketch.

PmgR

Thanks PmgR and for all your help in the background, as I couldn't of done a solid state version without your assistance.
I'll first try with a magnet as you suggest.

gotoluc:

Wonderful hard work, I know something about it

I wanted to write the same as Pierre that Arduino should be further away from the magnetic field as well as the control wires. Of course, it can work.

Thanks r2fpl. I'm not planing to push the device anywhere close to what Pierre demonstrated like powering a 1kW microwave oven. I'll be happy if it can just sustain itself.
I also think like PmgR answered below that the majority of the magnetic field will be contained in the steel lamination core. So far in all my experiments I've never seen a magnetic field affect a solid state component. However, if I was using mechanical switching that's another story, as they cause RF and would most definitely not work in a close proximity as my design.

Majority of the magnetic field will be contained within the steel and on the inside of the stator. Anything else is leakage and probably won't be large enough too cause any issues. Try it out to see if it works. If it doesn't you can always move the Arduino farther away from the stator.
PmgR

That's the way I see and understand it as well. However, anyone using mechanical switching that would be a problem in close proximity as my design since the switch RF would most definitely cause problems for the Arduino.

Is that possible when he uses 12V as gate pulses? His drain voltage has to be >=12V.

Luc, this is an art-work! Well done!!! How did you pull out your stator from motor's casing?

I've tested these L298N and they operated all the way down to 4vdc.
Thanks. My stator and rotor came from a generator, so it's easy to take apart: https://youtu.be/iYullLkW9rc

Hi Luc,

Looks great, One question though, Pierre has 18 super caps (1/2 the 36 coils) , Should yours not have 15 half the 30? I only see ten.
Beautiful workmanship none the less.
Thanks artv

The quantity of super caps is not important. What is most important is the Voltage, since each super cap can only handle 2.7vdc . The ones Pierre used has 6 mounted on one board, so he used 3 boards thinking he could go up to 48vdc.  When he first tested he realized that he only needed around 22 volts. He just didn't bother to remove the extra board.
As you noticed mine has 10, so it can handle up to 27vdc. However, I don't think I'll need to go to that high of an input voltage and can easily reduce the quantity which will boost their storage capacity since they're connected in series.

Regards
Luc