Joe cell successful Replication

[chessnyt]

Hello Oscar,

Cleaning the ends is defined as removing the burrs that will be present after making your length cuts.  It is recommended that you use a high RPM dremel with a sanding bit attached to deburr the ends.  I used an air powered tool with a rubber tipped bit with quick change type sanding pads.  The dremel would probably work best but I have the air type tool so I used what I had. 

As far as cleaning the cylinders/pipes; initially before putting the pipes inside of each other, clean the inside and outside with a mixture of white vinegar and clean cell water or rain water.  Obviously, you will not have any clean cell water until you process a batch in the charging vat so if you don’t have any rain water, you have to disassemble your charging vat after you have processed a batch of tap water.  Polishing is not mentioned in the instructions so I’m assuming it’s not required.

There is also an electrical way to remove “scum” that will eventually build up on your stainless tube walls.  This will be explained in detail after the charging vat is complete and in operation.

Let me know when you are ready to proceed with option one (as there are two options given) on how to complete the charging vat construction.

Moving forward,

Joe 

[OscarMeyer]

Let me know when you are ready to proceed with option one (as there are two options given) on how to complete the charging vat construction.

Moving forward,

Joe 

Ok.  I'm ready for more instructions.  I did happen to have some rain water laying around BTW I cleaned the pipes and its a go No threats to me but I read today where teh original inventers place was broken into and they stole all his equipment and he no longer wants anything to do with the cell anymore. And thought this kinda stuff just happened here in the US. Guess if you got bucks, you can reach 'em anywhere. I bet the energy sellers love the news.

Oscar

[chessnyt]

Hello Oscar,

Here’s the next list of parts to get:

Qty.
1   1/2” x 4” long stainless steel hex head bolt.
4   1/2” stainless steel nuts.
2   1/2” stainless steel flat washers.
1   teflon washer with same dimensions as flat washers (or slightly larger) except 1/8” thick.
1   3/4” strain relief cord connector (straight), Thomas & Betts catalog number 2532.
1   2”L x 2”W x 1/8” Thick piece of stainless steel plate.

The stainless steel bolt must be threaded from the end to within 5/8” (or closer) to its head.

Moving along,

Joe    

[WorldOrder]

This is my first attempt at replicating a Joe Cell.  I do not know if it is really going to work.  I have never seen one in person working.  In fact, I have never seen one in person, period.  I have viewed the video that Oscar posted very carefully on a frame by frame basis and I have no way of knowing for sure that the fuel line cut-out valve is actually closed or not as the video’s maker claims.

It does appear authentic, though, because of the timing setting that is displayed while the engine is running in the background.  This engine would not run this smoothly on gasoline with the timing this far advanced.

Chessnyt,

I have a problem with your logic about the timing setting.  First of all, when you advance the timing of an internal combustion engine, the spark plug will fire early.  If the spark plug firse too early, the piston will be thrusted down before reaching the power stroke.  This would stop the engine as it would be forced to run backwards and this wouldn’t work because of the valve timing off the cam shaft.  The engine in the video is wayyyyyyy advanced so the readout must have been faked.

W.O.

[chessnyt]

Hello World Order,

If we were talking about burning gasoline or hydrogen, then you would be 100 percent correct, as both of these fuels expand (explode) when they are ignited.  But we are NOT talking about burning gasoline or hydrogen.  We are talking about orgone, which when ignited, implodes.  This causes a vacuum or suction effect.  This means that the piston is being drawn towards the combustion chamber during the compression stroke and NOT pushed away from it as is the case when burning fuels that expand (explode). 

So the burning of orgone will only work in an engine being ignited in the compression stroke and not in the power stroke (like gasoline or hydrogen).  When the engine is primed (acclimated) with orgone, the engine will start to idle or run rough as the orgone is having an adverse effect on the function of the engine.  This is because the orgone is now entering the engine and being burned in the power stroke which counters the combustion of the gasoline vapor.  This is when the gas line is supposed to be plugged, the carburetor bowl is to be drained and the timing is to be advanced (also, the fuel pump is to be disabled as well).

To rule out the possibility of hydrogen running the engine, just check the emissions (exhaust) for water or moisture content.  Orgone, when ignited, has no water byproduct (or carbon byproduct as does gasoline).

JFYI,

Joe