Is this the first selfrunning overunity motor w/o batteries ? Mike?s motor

[CTG Labs]

Nice motor!  Good work!


Dave.

[CLaNZeR]

Sean,

Whats your location in the UK?


Dave.

Cornwall this end Dave

What about you?

Regards

Sean.

[hstearnsjr]

Hi Hoyt,
Couple of things:
1. The window coil needs to be as per the spec, the turns do not look enough.
2. The coil needs to circle the the rotor, you cannot double back like you have done.
3. Are you clips magnetic?
4. How much friction have you got on this rotor?
Typically it should be able to spin for about 10 seconds if you give a small flick.
If you use sapphire bearings you could get the rotor to spin for nearly one minute with a small spin.
5. A timing circuit is a bad idea, you need a feedback system. If you start straying that far from the original idea you will end up way off track.
Sorry for the critisism.

Regards
Rob

I thought I'd replied to this, but it didn's show up, so again:

Thank you for your suggestions, that's why I posted.

The rotor spins about 30 seconds from about 100 RPM.

I think the coil effectively does surround the magnets -- I just doubled over the coil making electrically one coil [11.2 ohms], then just bent it to fit.
The hose clamps are stainless steel, just barely magnetic, and the cable clamps are plastic.

See the position sensor I was planning to use on the left in this photo of another project, which triggers the timer:

http://hoytstearns.com/Steorn/RWGrayMotor3.jpg

Did you also require voltage or current feedback in addition to position sensing?

I'll wind another proper coil when I get the wire and have time.

Thanks again for the feedback.


Hoyt

[fesearcher]

Hi,
one further note I just thought about:
The window motor is actually a double Adams motor. Therefore it might be interesting to built an Adams motor but with no core in the coil. This motor has the advantage to not use a window shaped coil and the need of less copper to achieve more turns.
This is what I can try, too.
PK

[hstearnsjr]

You might get even better results by using Schottky diodes in the bridge as the forward drop is much lower (but the reverse leakage (~20k) is much higher).  If not that, germanium diodes or synchronous rectification using FETs.  I've got some old germanium transistors around, I'l think I'll try those first (collector-base junction diode).