Is this the first selfrunning overunity motor w/o batteries ? Mike?s motor

[MeggerMan]

Hi Hoyt,
Couple of things:
1. The window coil needs to be as per the spec, the turns do not look enough.
2. The coil needs to circle the the rotor, you cannot double back like you have done.
3. Are you clips magnetic?
4. How much friction have you got on this rotor?
Typically it should be able to spin for about 10 seconds if you give a small flick.
If you use sapphire bearings you could get the rotor to spin for nearly one minute with a small spin.
5. A timing circuit is a bad idea, you need a feedback system. If you start straying that far from the original idea you will end up way off track.
Sorry for the critisism.

Regards
Rob

[CLaNZeR]

author=hstearnsjr I'll probably use a commercial inductive pickup, and a 555 timer to do the pulsing, and maybe even use a microprocessor to fine tune it.

Let me know if you need any help knocking up a Microprocessor controller for the timing.
I can write up some code for the Microchip Pic range of Controllers easly enough.

I have promised myself one project at a time this end as head all over the place jumping back and forth from each one and not finishing any!. So have decided to stick with the Torbay replication but will be starting work on my pulse motor next, so will need to knock up circuit and some Pic code to control the timing.

I am looking at using Optical sensors fed into the processor for trigger and output to a mofset to take the load of the coil. Was going to use a simple serial menu from the processor back to the PC to enable the fine tuning of the trigger with any delay you wish to specify.

Regards

Sean.

[CTG Labs]

Sean,

Whats your location in the UK?


Dave.

[neptune]

I have spent hours studying this project. It must be 20 years since I built anything electronic. I would love to replicate this, but there are a number of things I dont understand. The main question is, What triggers the Hall effect device, and where exactly is it mounted. It seems pointless to me to have a separate sync wheel with the same number of magnrts as on the rotor. Having thought about it, you probably need a separate wheel with say all northpoles to trigger the device, wheras the rotor has alternating poles, and so you cannot trigger it off the rotor. Can anyone put me wise?
       Also, could anyone do a quick diagram showing the MOTOR ONLY with the components necessary to run it from a battery, for those of us just starting. Also, what are the odds on cracking it without a scope? I have only a primitive one, and I last used it 20 years ago. Any help appreciated.

[fesearcher]

Hi to all,
first of all, there seems to be a lot of people who just don't know what bifilar or trifilar wound wire is!
Bifilar does not mean just to have two spools of wire on a coil. It however means you have to wind both wires togheter. So a trifilar coil needs 3 wires that have to be wound togheter the same time! Hence, every wire has the same length! Since Mike stated that the wires have not the same length the coil cannot be true trifilar!!!

I have built a motor but the motor does not run itself. If the 66000 ?F cap is charged to 12V the motor spins up and runs for a few seconds. This shows the very low power consumption of the motor. However this motor has a very low efficiency. (Efficiency has nothing to do with overunity!!)

The enclosed picture showes the motor.

There are two alterations I will do next.
First to improve the bearing of the rotor, which is only a porous bearing at the moment, in order to decrease friction loss.
Second, I will use another coil. This one is made is true trifilar winding. One wire is 0,25mm and the other two have 0,56mm in diameter. About 350 turns. I will change it to all 0,25mm to increase the numbers of turn.

However there is a problem. The more turns the coil has the more BEMF Voltage can be received on the other hand the less repelling action ca be achieved, because of the need of higher voltage.
PK