Barbat low inertial mass generator

[karl]

tak22,
how thick should this Cu(x)O(y) layer be? 50nm? 1?m?
Do you have an Idea of the thicknes?
I am familiar with technic's for oxide growing out of different material surfaces.
A small layer of the Cu-suface is sacrificed to grow up the oxide of the metal.
You can do it in humid atmosphere at elevated temperatures to speed up the growing process.
In natural conditions (20?, 60%humidity) it takes to long.
100% humidity (water bubbler) continiously led in an oven at 1000?C is used to grow up SiO out of an Si-Surface (single crystal wafer).
Under this conditions it takes several hours to grow up some 50-100nm of SiO2.
CuO should grow up much faster due to different material conditions.
The oxygen has to move through the already grown layer by diffusion to reach the underlying pure Cu.
This means the thickness is limited due to the decreasing growing factor over time.
This is the simplest technic.
I hope this helps you.
I think there are some developments using such CuO-lavers on Cu to build photon sensitive layers (solar sensitive structures).
Google on it. You should find the basics.
Best wishes
stay tuned
kaRLfunkel

[Rosphere]

tak22,

Thank you for posting this interesting Barbat patent application.

I am contemplating a Bedini motor/charger as my next project.  Yet, this Barbat design tempts me with its lack of moving parts and higher claimed output potential.

However, as patents often do, it lacks specific replicate-able details; too many variables to tinker with after nothing happens.  'Did I do something wrong or is there something wrong with the design?'  There is also this to consider: http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/c5885.htm

With the Bedini device you have more specifics available and more folks that have been there to ask for help and advice.  But on the other hand, the output hides between these two batteries and makes no claims to being a 'self runner' as does the Barbat device.

[tak22]

@rosphere

big thanks for giving this your attention, maybe I can convince you to have a second look,

too many variables, like a TPU? 

good warning about the 'loose' CuO

yes there are variables, but not very many parts, and they are 'normal' parts. here's my approach:

- have two identical coils of copper, one shiny and new, the other oxidized (CuO) .
- pulse an input coil to radiate the shiny coil, measure what can be picked up on an output coil.
- repeat, but use the CuO coil.
- is there a difference?
- if yes, move on to optimizing and self resonating.

I believe I need a scope to do this, and I don't have one. If someone knows how to perform this experiment without a scope please speak up.

tak

[hansvonlieven]

Get a scope programme for your computer tak.

You can get some good free ones from the net. All you need to do is to build some sort of probe that limits the input into your sound card otherwise you will blow it up. It's not hard.

Start with the programme to which I posted a link here: http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,3500.225.html  If you follow the thread a bit further there is some information on a possible probe.

Good luck

Hans von Lieven

[Rosphere]

maybe I can convince you to have a second look

I believe that you can, my friend.  I like your testing approach.  I may have one channel left still working on my 'scope after I fried the other with a MOT, (what a bonehead move on my part.)

I do not have any pre-oxidized copper wire.  But I have been looking for methods to add a layer of oxidation to new copper.  Apparently, copper can react with various chemicals to produce films of various colors, green, blue, red, and the black CuO that we are after.  One web site mentioned that adding heat to one of the other colors, red or green, will convert it to black.  (I need to crawl back over the net to read more on this topic.)

I read that annealing copper in air will produce a film of CuO.  So, I heated some copper wire to a glow with a butane lighter and let it cool.  Most of the black film rubbed off easily and is most likely soot from the butane flame.  According to Hank Hill, "butane is a bastard gas."

So, then I tried this using a natural gas, stove-top, flame.  The blackening seemed superficial and not well distributed over the wire.

Copper does not oxidize as well as iron in the presence of water.  And when it finally does start to show oxidation it turns green, not black.

So, I'm thinking that H2O2 has more oxygen then water.  I put some copper in a 3%, 'over-the-counter', solution of H2O2, (hydrogen peroxide,) for an hour or so.  Nothing.

Then I tried electrolysis with a 9V battery and salt water.  The plus side blackened a bit, but not too much.

Then I tried electrolysis with a 9V battery and H2O2 solution.  No reaction; no ions.  So I added a bit of NaCl to add some ions.  The bubbling started like with the salt water.  But then, something different started to happen.  The solution started to go from clear to yellow to brown with darker brown blotches forming in the solution.

(I thought that this may be due to the salt and the H2O2 reacting together.  So I mixed the two in a separate container and it stayed clear.)

After several minutes, the water was a dark brown color.  I removed the copper wires.  The plus side had a thick coating that turned bright green when allowed to dry.  I heated this with the lower blue edge of my butane flame, (to attempt to reduce the soot deposits as I was too tired at that point to go downstairs to the kitchen.)  The flame picked up a green glow to it as the green film turned into a red film upon cooling.  Further heating turned it to a black coating.

Is this the CuO film that we are after?  I have no idea.  I need to find better sources of information and do more testing here before I wind any coils.

Like you, I think it is a good Idea to test with a magnification coil of clean copper and then one of oxidized copper.  But, in my case, I would like to make only one and test it before and after blackening the same coil.

This all that I can add at this point.  I will post more information as it is acquired.

If someone reading this has a simple and more direct method of creating a CuO film on 'fresh' copper wire, please post your method.