Muller Dynamo

[Groundloop]

Special for Groundloop and the others helping with drawings and info 
To get to the point where you will get even a little bit out than in requires a lot of time and work. Check every part of the system, part by part, then when you think is tuned start again.
Let me give u an example:
If u have 10 parts in your system and after jumping from testing  the first then second up to 10, when u finished you start again. It can be that part 3 is not as before after u adjusted any other part after. Once you retried everything and got best of all adjustments then you are nearly there.
Do all this testings without having the rectifiers connected together.Measure every coil separately. Even if you don't get too much out from the coils, don't worry, when all are connected things will go magic.
A DC/DC Converter is a must.
Don't rush, I have spent about a month to get here.
Once u past the point and for 1 you get even 1.1 then things are easy

Success!

@omerouk,

Thank you for the tips. I have had my Muller for 8 years. I have tried several 100th of variations
for motor driving and generator outputs. My Muller is made in a CNC machine. All the coils are
factory made. So there is not much I can tune. All I can do is trying to add Ferrite cores to
my coils. There is no way I can get my magnets out of the rotor to try all the same pole out.
The magnets are glued to the rotor with a strong Epoxy. So I'm stuck with the NSNSNSNS configuration.
I have no spare time to build a new Muller now. But I will get time next winter. Then I will build
an Acrylic one and make as a close replica to your Muller as possible.

GL.

[Pirate88179]

@omerouk,

Thank you for the tips. I have had my Muller for 8 years. I have tried several 100th of variations
for motor driving and generator outputs. My Muller is made in a CNC machine. All the coils are
factory made. So there is not much I can tune. All I can do is trying to add Ferrite cores to
my coils. There is no way I can get my magnets out of the rotor to try all the same pole out.
The magnets are glued to the rotor with a strong Epoxy. So I'm stuck with the NSNSNSNS configuration.
I have no spare time to build a new Muller now. But I will get time next winter. Then I will build
an Acrylic one and make as a close replica to your Muller as possible.

GL.

GL:

Depending upon your rotor material, a little heat will remove your magnets easily.  Of course, it will probably be above the Curie temp. for the magnets so you would have to replace them, but at least they would be off of your rotor.  Heat will work no matter what type of epoxy was used.

I hope this helps.

Bill

[Groundloop]

GL:

Depending upon your rotor material, a little heat will remove your magnets easily.  Of course, it will probably be above the Curie temp. for the magnets so you would have to replace them, but at least they would be off of your rotor.  Heat will work no matter what type of epoxy was used.

I hope this helps.

Bill

Bill,

Thank you. Did not know that heat will dissolve Epoxy.

Still, I think it will be less costly to keep the magnets and destroy the rotor.
My magnets is 32mm in diameter and 20mm thick. I do not know what the
cost is today for such big magnets.

Thanks,
GL.

[khabe]

I have air core coils in my Muller and it does NOT give out any free energy.
I think the smartest thing to do is to replicate romerouk's setup.

GL.

Looks like you forgot Right and Left hand rules and Lorentz law, the air core (air gap) motor/generator principle,
Accurate is to say that there is no coils at all, there are only wires (conductors)  in a magnetic field.
When magnet moves over (round wound) COIL then at first one side of coil induces positive pulse and another side of coil indudes negative pulse ... summary NOTHING, especially when magnet does cover all the coil. When to wind this coil sides more widely, then we get sequentially plus and minus -  sinus, but what you will do with this full wave sinus when N-pole Muller machine Must to be noted that when axial machine then magnets acts only to wires what are radially, wires (part of coil) what have  rotor rotation direction are just like ballast, they do nothing instead of losses (resistivity).
In principle it is possible to arrange wires and to get only positive pulse or only negative pulse, you just need to wind this coil dissimilarly, other side will be hidden on to back side, it means again longer wire and more losses.
Thats because common ferrous core wound coil is the best for actual story - all the copper will be spent usefully.
cheers,
khabe

[hhobrian]

Thanks to this thread, I know how this works now! Thanks!

http://www.lutec.com.au/how.htm