Stubblefield coils (bifilar) and speculations

[Pirate88179]

Yes, could you repost how to do that? That would be very helpful! I took apart an old power supply from an old computer of mine and got a small torroid and a large one too. They are covered with some kind of paint or something. Will they work? Also, are they supposed to be magnetic? These aren't.

Timmy:

Sorry I didn't post this earlier. (I forgot to)  This picture should be of the connectors I made to attach my leads to the carbon rods.  Very simple to make.  I took some pretty heavy gauge stranded wire (I think it was like 12 or 14) and bent it into a loop, keeping the strands tight together.  I made the inside diameter of the loop the same size as the outside diameter of my rods. (1")  then, I tinned the wire and tried a test fit.  One fit perfectly, a good friction fit with a good connection.  The other one, I just added a little more solder, which made the ID just a little smaller and...it then also fit well.  Then I just soldered on some round connectors on the other end of the wire and that's it.  (I find the round connectors work well with my alligator clamps on my test leads) These have been outside in the weather and on the carbon rods for about a year and they are still holding up.  I hope this helps.  Let me know if I did not explain this right.  Thanks.

Bill

[resonanceman]

@ Jeanna:

What I have been thinking, and you know this is out of my field but, I believe that we can use the joule thief to boost the output of both the electrode style EB and the coils.  What I am going to try first is the electrode approach (carbon rod/magnesium blocks) and use the small toroid JT to see how many leds I can light.  Then, I will employ the Fuji circuit to see if I can light 100 leds or so or a 48" florescent tube.  Only then will I move to the coil experiments.  I will have to wind a new coil anyway.  I am thinking that instead of adding the secondary to the outside of the primary and having to deal with the make/break part of it, we can just use the energy in the primary to power a JT and in the case of the Fuji circuit, this will allow us to do many things.

I am really very excited about this which is why I got involved with these circuits in the first place.  I had no idea what they could do.

For those not familiar with the Joule Thief topic, I will post 2 photos here.  The first one should be 2, 40 watt 48" long florescent tubes powered by the Fuji circuit and a single AA battery.  The second should be of my Christmas tree running 200 leds all powered by the Fuji circuit and 1 AA battery.

Bill

Pirate

Very impressive pictures.

How long   can you  run those setups  with the  single  AA  battery?

My time on the net is  very limited  right now .   can you  post  a  link  or something for more information  about  the  fuji  circuit?   ........or  share a little more about what it took  to  power the lights in  the pictures.


gary 

gary

[Pirate88179]

Gary:

http://josepino.com/circuits/?fluorescent_light

The above link is the one I used.  The Fuji circuit has been proven to be superior to the Kodak one. (much larger transformer for one thing)  Now, there is a slight problem.  We have found (on the joule thief topic) that not all Fuji boards are the same.  I got the "good" one on the first try, some others had to get 2 or 3 cameras before they got one.  Jeanna got one that no one has ever seen before and therefore, we are not much help in her modification of it.  I bought another one tonight and I will see what I have later. (And these were all marked as "the same" cameras)

The above link is good and we only made a slight deviation from his instructions.  He even says that 4 watts is the limit for this board but, several of us have illuminated 2 48" (40 watts ea.) tubes.  Tonight, I am also going to try (if I get the time) for 300 leds powered from a single AA bat.

Feel free to join us over on that topic.  The more the merrier and you have a good mind.  This stuff just fascinates me.

Bill            PS  I don't know yet how long this will light.  I am still at the stage where I can't believe it lights at all, ha ha.  I will test that tho.

[resonanceman]

Gary:

http://josepino.com/circuits/?fluorescent_light

The above link is the one I used.  The Fuji circuit has been proven to be superior to the Kodak one. (much larger transformer for one thing)  Now, there is a slight problem.  We have found (on the joule thief topic) that not all Fuji boards are the same.  I got the "good" one on the first try, some others had to get 2 or 3 cameras before they got one.  Jeanna got one that no one has ever seen before and therefore, we are not much help in her modification of it.  I bought another one tonight and I will see what I have later. (And these were all marked as "the same" cameras)

The above link is good and we only made a slight deviation from his instructions.  He even says that 4 watts is the limit for this board but, several of us have illuminated 2 48" (40 watts ea.) tubes.  Tonight, I am also going to try (if I get the time) for 300 leds powered from a single AA bat.

Feel free to join us over on that topic.  The more the merrier and you have a good mind.  This stuff just fascinates me.

Bill            PS  I don't know yet how long this will light.  I am still at the stage where I can't believe it lights at all, ha ha.  I will test that tho.

Thanks  Bill

I will have to  look for  a source of  cameras.    I checked one store they said they  recycle  all of theirs .   

Am I right in assuming that   the bulb is lit  with  pulsing  DC that normally would  be used for charging the main cap?


I have  some  LED christmas tree lights ....... 4 watts  ....I wonder  if  it would  light them up without burning  them up .

I am also wondering  about   connecting  a large coil  and   trying to  collect  the flyback  pulses . .....as they  have done on other  threads .  Such  as
  http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3972.50   
 starting on reply 58    ( maybe  this is not  the best example ........but I remember that  this circuit  had  an output voltage  about 3 times input )

gary

[resonanceman]

Thanks  Bill

I will have to  look for  a source of  cameras.    I checked one store they said they  recycle  all of theirs .   

Am I right in assuming that   the bulb is lit  with  pulsing  DC that normally would  be used for charging the main cap?


I have  some  LED christmas tree lights ....... 4 watts  ....I wonder  if  it would  light them up without burning  them up .

I am also wondering  about   connecting  a large coil  and   trying to  collect  the flyback  pulses . .....as they  have done on other  threads .  Such  as
  http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3972.50   
 starting on reply 58

gary

Just  wondering  about a few things.

I am assuming that the  voltage  from the  AA battery  is   stepped  up  in part by  pulsing it .
I wonder  what  frequency  it runs at ?

I am guessing that the  resistance within  a florescent  tube drops fairly low  if  the voltage  is high enough .
What if the  florescent  bulb could be  in effect  the " wire " between   the main cap and  a coil  sized to achieve  resonance   with the pulses  from the  camera board ?


gary