Stubblefield coils (bifilar) and speculations

[storre]

@jeanna

I guess could be a 1.2v led but not sure if there will be enough ma there to light it up. Just a guess but I think not necessary. I think the easiest way to test if it's oscillating is to wind a big secondary on it and measure the hz.

Here is something I found for silk tubing. I'm going to try and go with silk. Found this for $1 a meter. How many meters do you normally use on the primary? They have 3mm and 4mm. I'm going to start out with 4mm copper wire that I already have so the 4mm should work. 100M should make a very big primary or many smaller ones

http://www.vt4c.com/shop/program/main.php?cat_id=22&group_id=3

@mthompson
The way I see the patent. The 2 10 wires are one copper end and one iron end. Is that how you understand it? In that case I would think the make and break would go between terminals 5 and 6. In other words 5-10 is a copper wire and 6-10 is the iron wire.

It's just a very long skinny battery with plates (wires) very long submerged in an electrolyte. That is why it doesn't make since to mess with the 2 ends of the plates (wires). I started to visualize it like a car battery that has a special switch between the terminals (5 and 6) such that when the switch closes and immediately opens and closes again. Repeatedly shorting out the battery 100s of times per second. If these long plates are wound in a coil wouldn't the repeated opening and closing of the circuit create the electromagnetic field which would then be used to operate the reed switch so that closing it opens it which closes it etc. Maybe you are explaining it that way but I got confused when you said to connect the external circuit to the 2 10s. The ext circuit you are referring to is the reed switch?

[storre]

@jeanne

I thought of another way to use a light during testing. What about adding a small battery inline? Not sure how it will effect the functioning of the primary but it might allow us to compensate for a weak primary until we find out how many winds, insulator and diameter of wire is needed to give it enough amperage. The on and off switching of the reed switch should still function and we can hopefully see the light flashing. Not sure how it will effect the pumping action or the speed of the oscillations but it would be a good test.

Like this: Lead 5 ---> (+aaa battery-) ---> (normally closed reed switch positioned over top of bolt) ---> Lead 6

But really we just need to make the primary a big enough voltaic battery to energize the electromagnet enough to operate the reed switch.

I suppose even we could test the action of the reed switch by even creating a simple single wire electromagnet with the battery and light also.

[Pirate88179]

@ mthompson:

One of our experimenters, I can't recall who, had tried nylon mesh and did not get good results.  I can't say if it was because of the nylon, or some other variation with the coils construction.  I don't see why cotton gauze would not work provided it didn't have any adhesive on the back of it.

I like your analysis of the patent language and I can't disagree with it.  We will just have to test different methods and see.  As Joe has mentioned, I think Stubblefield was intentionally vague in order to protect some of his discoveries.  In any of my tests, I do not see any measurable difference between the 10's and 5 and 6.  The best numbers come from any of the copper or iron wires to the core itself.  This changes for some reason.  One day, the iron wire (either one) to the core is the best and then a day or so later, the best readings come from the copper wire to the core.  It is never the same.  When it is good for the copper, the iron wire readings are low, and visa-versa.

This is why we need as many folks experimenting both here, and on the other Stubblefield topic.  There are a lot of variables to be explored.  I have a long list of things I want to try.

Bill

[jeanna]

@mthompson

Yes, OK. Now, the meter will connect the wires wherever it is hooked up. At the same time it will provide some resistance (different from meter to meter) and at the same time allow me to see how much of what kind of juice is moving around the wires.

It cannot tell me how much magnetism there is nor the direction if the direction change is too fast.

If I connect cu10 and fe6 with the meter, I will short out the wires just as if I connectec 5,6. BUT I think what you are saying is that if I connect 10 to 6, I will not be nullifying the magnetic field, while I am creating the voltage etc.

Your discussion of this is very helpful.

The part about not nullifying the magnetic field is mysterious, because when the wires are wound down then back 3 complete times, the field should be nullified by doing nothing else.

And yet there is a decided magnetic influence on the core piece.

Speeking of the core piece, ONE of my coils is made of iron pipe. I was told that this pipe is a good example of soft iron. I do believe this is true, because it is the only core piece that produces a SLUGGISH response in my compass. It also has a polarity that is opposite the others, but that may be from its hollowness or something else.

This pipe coil is the one I used for the spark gap experiment. (nothing changed that I know of after I put the wires close to spark.)


@storre

I suppose even we could test the action of the reed switch by even creating a simple single wire electromagnet with the battery and light also.

So, [ battery - copper coil wound around a pencil - light - reed switch - battery ]

Is that what you have in mind?


That link has the lingerie strap that I was thinking of. The last silk one on the bottom.

The pictures show a non flexible cotton or nylon weave structure; and the silk has a knit structure. The good news about that is that the knitted silk tube will get longer and thinner when you stretch it, so you may end up with more meterage.

My shortest coil has 5 ft of wire and my longest has 50 ft. 50 ft is $75 at 1.50/ft.

I will check the pharmacy for some gauze on a roll. Good idea mthompson. (I have been thinking of cheesecloth but it is very hard to cut or tear)

Thank you both for some great input,

jeanna

[storre]

@jeanna

I think the easiest way to test this before adding the reed switch is to test it just like any other battery using cu5 and fe6. Once we get enough amperage to operate the NC reed switch then replace the meter with the reed switch on the same terminals and it should work to create the auto switching to create the pulsed dc or would it be ac?

About testing with a simple electromagnet I made a simple drawing.

BTW, found these reed switches. I found out all the ones I had are N.O type :-/

http://cgi.ebay.com/NIPPON-ALEPH-HYR-1003-REED-SWITCH-N-Close-15-35-AT_W0QQitemZ180234036111QQihZ008QQcategoryZ58169QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247