Stubblefield coils (bifilar) and speculations

[jeanna]

Quote from: Localjoe on Today at 08:29:16 AM

Yes thank you Joe,

I just grabbed this to demonstrate what I meant.

As always a good thing happened.

I just asked about AC generation bottom line the other day, and I learned that

the speed of the movement of the magnet  produces the magnetic field. where

The diameter of the coil produces the amps.

I am sure the girth of the wire comes in there too because too skinny wire cannot allow enough strawberries to move etc...

@jeanna:

What type of reed switch did you use? NC or NO and what AT rating was it?

In my resistance experiment, I used the 3 sizes or NO that I bought last month. There is no point in soldering them on anywhere BUT I was able to use them to see if any of my coils were big and strong enough to make a magnetic field strong enough to close the switch. I was holding the switch between 2 clips of my meter connected to read the ohms of resistance in the switch. I needed a store bought  ferrous magnet to close the switch.

Copper should be 5 and Iron 6 as he specifies in line 80 of the patent. The copper wire 5 being incased in cotton or silk.

Thank you. The ONLY reason is for someone who has not made enough of these to have the numbering system in mind. It could confuse. - thats all.

Something like this drawing I've attached.

Your drawings are very clear and fine for explaining. I guess you don't own a digital camera. It is OK.

This pic you show of your coil#9---- I think we really need to concentrate on getting the primary working first to activate the reed switch.

Yes, this is the reason I have made so many. I want to get the best little one then I can make a big one. -this is just my way. I am such an experimenter, I would have become discouraged from the cost and difficulty of making 14 coils that were different just to find the best combo. This way the cost has been small and the time and aggravation to my fingers  little.

So, with that said,

Also make sure there is NO metal to metal contact anywhere throughout the coil.

This is very important and tricky at the bottoms of the coils. The top of the bolt is wrapped with electric tape. You can see where I peeled it away to make testing at the bolt easier.

What size wire and how many turns did you use on the primary and what did you wrap the copper in?

Very skinny wire, but available in 100 ft lengths. 24 gauge
cu wire wrapped in cotton.
It is on a
1/2 inch bolt
6 layers 24 gauge both cu and galvanized fe wires
0.620 VDC
0.8 VAC
10.25 mAmp

These figures are from the coil primary #9 when it was just finished, and BEFORE I added the secondaryary and before it went into the ground.

After I put it into the ground the voltage went to the

500's for 2 weeks then after

April 14 they entered the 400's and

April 16 dropped to  223vdc


As the voltage went down the milliamps moved to microamps.

You can follow the progress on those charts I posted on Earthbatteries/Stubblefield  from around that time.

I am sure at least some of it is from the coil drying out. But I was surprised yesterday when I soaked it in the jar that it didn't go any higher than it did.

so I can stop typing and start building like you

yes, it is fun, even though I don't have the answer yet.

I recommend that you build one or three. It will serve you well when you get those switches, I am positive.

I have always wished the other folks would build a couple more to share experiences, but no one seemed to see the value. so, it is OK just my way. 

I changed the name of that pic so I will post it now. (the secondary is slipped over it and is red 394 turns)

jeanna

[storre]

Your drawings are very clear and fine for explaining. I guess you don't own a digital camera. It is OK.

I have a very good one that does video also but it's easier for me to do the drawings for now. Once I have an actual coil constructed I will upload the pictures.

Yes, this is the reason I have made so many. I want to get the best little one then I can make a big one. -this is just my way. I am such an experimenter, I would have become discouraged from the cost and difficulty of making 14 coils that were different just to find the best combo. This way the cost has been small and the time and aggravation to my fingers   little.

I think the coil needs to be a minimum size (don't ask me what the minimum is) ;-) to be able to create a strong enough magnetic field to operate the reed switch. Until it reaches that point then it's just a week battery not much good for testing this patent. Just from the drawings on the patent (assuming he was doing them to scale of a working model) they are using good size wire so the electrodes end up being large enough to create a useable magnetic field to open the reed switch.

This is very important and tricky at the bottoms of the coils. The top of the bolt is wrapped with electric tape. You can see where I peeled it away to make testing at the bolt easi

I don't see any reason for testing at the bolt. That is just going to serve to help the magnetic field created by the coil. There should be no electrical contact to it anyway. If you look at the patent drawings closely you can see how he was careful where the wires entered and exited the coils. He did it in a way that the exited directly so they didn't touch any of the previous windings. I think this is very important for the magnetic field to function.

I am sure at least some of it is from the coil drying out. But I was surprised yesterday when I soaked it in the jar that it didn't go any higher than it did.

Just what I would expect from a normal battery. It's not recharging because it's not oscillating because it doesn't have the reed switch. Nice to see the numbers go up a lot when you put it in the ground. I assume the numbers before you put it in the ground where from a completely dry coil?

yes, it is fun, even though I don't have the answer yet.

Well my intuition tells me we need to make bigger coils. The amount turns you have is ok but we need more overall metal so fatter wires. I'm going to start with 4mm (6 gauge) for the copper and 2.1mm (12 gauge) for the iron. Maybe I will run the iron as a double wire to make it equal (more or less) to the copper. Couldn't find 6 gauge iron but twisting 2 of the irons together or putting the silk tube over the 2 iron instead of the 1 copper would work too and make them as one wire.

[jeanna]

Nice to see the numbers go up a lot when you put it in the ground. I assume the numbers before you put it in the ground where from a completely dry coil?

well, no, They went down 0.05 as soon as I put it into the ground. Did I say that wrong? I will correct it if I can.

The numbers were all made from reading moist coils.

twisting 2 of the irons together or putting the silk tube over the 2 iron instead of the 1 copper would work too and make them as one wire.

He evidently had some experience that informed him NOT to wrap the iron. He says it can be done in the galvanic discussion, but he says he wants the iron to be bare to be better exposed to the action of the electrolyte and at the same time to intensify the magnetic field.

I would suggest that we stay away from covering the iron just to be sure. I think twisting them together is the best plan. (and wrap the copper wire.)

Good luck. I am looking forward to your results.

thank you,

jeanna

[storre]

He evidently had some experience that informed him NOT to wrap the iron. He says it can be done in the galvanic discussion, but he says he wants the iron to be bare to be better exposed to the action of the electrolyte and at the same time to intensify the magnetic field.

I would suggest that we stay away from covering the iron just to be sure. I think twisting them together is the best plan. (and wrap the copper wire.)

I would agree but also not sure how much difference it makes because in the same paragraph of the patent he says: "While the iron wire 6 is preferably bare of naked for the reasons stated, this wire may also be insulated without destroying the operativeness of the battery?"

He seems to indicate it's the battery part of the patent that is not effected but by his previous wording it seems the magnetic field would be effected. Not sure though how wrapping the iron with cotton or silk would effect the magnetic field.

[storre]

Has anyone here tried galvanized wire instead of pure iron? I'm wondering what effect it will have on the galvanic action.