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Get electricity from thin air.

Started by nightlife, May 01, 2008, 05:12:09 AM

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0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

nightlife

I am wondering what would happen if we used this topics crystal radio circuitry in place of the long wire.

Pardon

i have replaced the long wire with a short 8 to 10 feet piece of wire. but that wire is connected to my metal roof.

thanks for the great information (links) i had read about the car's coil setup but it didn't have the schematic to go the the description.

what i would like to do is replace the antenna (long wire) with a stubblefield coil / earth battery. but to do that the circuit would needs to be changed. since the circuit will not work with a AA battery. if I can make the right changes we may be on to something.

this weekend i will pick up a auto coil and try to make a new circuit. I think i only need the coil but i will have to check my parts just to make sure.

b0rg13

Quote from: nightlife on May 08, 2008, 11:02:38 AM
I found one of the articles I read. It can be viewed by using the following link.

http://www.nuenergy.org/alt/radiant_energy_diatribe.htm



does this really work ?. if you had say 4 to 8 battries would it still charge?.would it be enough to say run Mr Qs wheel ?.
if you want to get out of the rat race,you have to let go of the cheese.

nightlife

Pardon, good luck and thanks for keeping us posted.


b0rg13, I personaly have never built one to see if it does and or does not work but I thought it would be a good think to bring back up so that we may be able to utilize it in some way with others that we have talked about.

I also found this following info about the coil and spark plug set up.

Let's start this project by choosing a good marine battery. Marine batteries will typically hold a charge longer than regular car batteries. Regular car batteries can loose a charge just sitting around at a rate of almost 2 amps a day? This means precious backup power will be literally lost into thin air! Our objective in this situation is to store as much emergency backup power in reserve as possible, for the longest period of time possible.

Generally speaking, batteries that are rated in "reserve minutes" will typically outlast batteries that are rated in "crank amps."

Next you will need a working spark plug. I prefer the V groove type, but any old spark plug will work just fine. Start by hooking up the spark plug tip to the end of your antenna wire (antenna wire described later) and then run the ground end of the spark plug (where the threads are) into the top cap of a 12-volt automotive coil. Any old salvaged working coil will do. (Of course, except for the one your wife currently uses in her car.)

It is important to choose only insulated antenna wire for this project, as this will work best. The wire should be completely insulated from end to end with no breaks or soldered connections anywhere in-between. It doesn't seem to make any difference whether you lay it out in a straight line, is a looped antenna configuration, or if it weaves back and forth. Length is the key, not its footprint size.

Old discarded phone line, old cable TV coax, practically any wire that is insulated and long will provide satisfactory results provided that you don't tear the neighbor's cable TV wire out of his lawn, you shouldn't have any problems using any type of insulated wire for this project.

To connect the coil to the battery, we will use the bottom connector of the automotive coil that is normally connected to the points in your car. This will now be connected to the positive side of your emergency battery. The negative post of the battery is simply hooked up to a good earth ground.

You can make this work in field, wilderness or portable radio operations by driving a temporary ground rod into the earth and then connect the ground directly to the negative post on your battery.

Next we install a 1 to 3 KV capacitor. The capacitor value will work best if it is around a few picofared like those typically found in the horizontal section of a television chassis. The capacitor is then connected from ground back to the wire where the top of the spark plug is connected to the antenna.

Nothing should be touching ground except the ground post of the battery. Approx. 200 feet of insulated wire will completely charge a 12 volt deep cycle every 2 or 3 days! A thousand feet of wire will do it a lot quicker but the voltages will approach lethal levels.

This works as a charging system because the long antenna wire acts like a capacitor building an electric charge on the antenna wire. When a few thousand volts are reached, it will be discharge by "sparking" across the spark plug. The spark plug then delivers the electric charge to the coil, which in turn "down-converts" it to a few hundred volts. The electricity is then injected into the battery from the coil. The coil works by "pulsing" the charge into the battery at regular discharge intervals.

The weather controls how much static electricity is in the air at any given time during the course of the day or night. This electricity is then made available for charging our battery.

The real advantage of this particular charging system during an emergency situation is that the worst the weather gets, the more electricity you will have at your disposal for charging your battery.

When conditions such as wind and super cold air are frequently persistent, you will be able to weld the fillings in your teeth together! ...Be careful!

The higher you get the insulated wire of the ground, the better it will work in capturing DC current from the air for this highly effective, but low cost emergency battery charging system.

http://www.eham.net/articles/9272


Some info about static electricity that may interest you can be found using the following link.

http://www.amasci.com/emotor/stmiscon.html

Pardon

I picked up a car coil and connected the circuit up. but i never saw the spark plug fire up not even once. either it was the wrong day for testing or the roof just will not create the voltage required to jump the spark gap. i think it's the roof.

the APM circuit is still working fine it was tested at 56 volts before i removed and replaced it with the 12 volt car coil circuit.

I just don't know where I could string up a couple hundred feet of wire for the new circuit.