URGENT! WATER AS FUEL DISCOVERY FOR EVERYONE TO SHARE

[bumfuzzled]

Hi all.  Please HELP!
I am not an EE and not that good at auto mechanics either. But I am very excited about the work you all are doing on making a (standard) internal cumbustion engine run on water. It looks very doable and promising.  I got so excited I wanted to try Ossi's experiment as posted on page 6 reply #235.  I bought all the parts, except the strobe light which I could not find.  Now, looking at the diagram and pictures it appears the battery + and - wires go into the strobe light and from there the + wire seems to go through the coil + side to the plug AND around the coil to the plug (with diodes in this path to protect against curent backflow (layman terms). The - wire looks like it goes to the coil - side then to ground at (effectively) the plug base.  It also appears (in the video) that the strobe light creates a pulsing action that causes the plug to spark about every second.  So, I decided since I did not have the strobe light, I could just wire up the  test according to the digram and pictures, (making sure the diodes were wired in the same direction) then connect the - wire to the battery - terminal.  To complete the circuit and create a spark, I would just tap the + wire to the + batery terminal.  But alas when I tried this, no spark?  Then, I disconnected the + wire from the + side of the coil and the plug, tapped the + wire to the + side of the battery, and wala, spark!  In laymans terms, is that strobe light providing some magical separation of the current such that it goes to directly to the plug sometimes then breaks that current to go through the coil to the plug the next time?  Thanks all of you for your research and for the help you provide to those of us not quite as talented as yourselves.

I'm not sure I understand you but there is only one wire hooked to + on the coil. The strobe acts as a set of points would in an ignition system.

[HHOwanabe]

Bumfuzzled,
Thanks for the quick response.  According to the diagram (on pg 6 reply #235) the + wire goes from the strobe to the + side of coil.  In that path, is a conection for another wire (with diodes) that goes to the plug cap.  In the picture, that second wire actually comes from the + side of the coil to the plug cap.  The coil output (large plug wire) also goes to the plug cap.  I used 14g wire for the primary wiring and 10g wire to go from the coil output to the plug.  I use gator clamps at the ends of all wires.  My plug is a Champion CJ8, which the salesman told me was a non-resistor plug.
I agree that the strob simply simulates a cars distributor.  But what I don't understand, is why when I wire up this test as shown in the diagram and pictures (without the strobe though) I get no spark when I tap the + side of the battery with the  wire going to the coils + terminal.  If I remove the wire going from the + coil terminal to the plug, I do get a (normal) spark.  Totaly confused???

[lasher23]

Hello all,

I'm a novice, but I've been working on this project too. I fried my inverter and I've decided to use allCanadians cap charging circuit with my setup. I've got everything setup andI can charge my HV cap
to over a thousand volts easily enough. My problem is that the voltage leaks out of the cap very, very quickly. I know this is a newb question, but how do I dump that voltage quickly into my coil? I'm trying to be of use, but if this post is too off topic, delete it and I'll figure it out myself.

Thanks for any assistance.

[NerzhDishual]

Hi AllCanadian and All(Canadian and else )

IMHO, we are on the same pages...
My motto is : Back to Basics...

Two examples:
1) The programming language FORTRAN II has 4 major instructions:
a) Test: IF(Logical_Expression) Label1, Label2, Label3
b) Affectation: Variable = Expression
c) {ON expression} GOTO Label{s}
d) DO label, Expression (this could be avoided by using IF and GOTO)

I had in my archives an old LISP compiler written in FORTRAN II.
I 're-wrote' this compiler in a more 'modern' (but Basic ) language.

2) To design a software for a (one color) "Computer Drafting Table" (what do you call
that?), you only need 3 instructions:
a) Pen Up
b) Pen Down
c) GOTO X,Y
I have done it: a (first level) DXF interpreter with an old  but very 'accurate'
TEKTRONIC(?) Table that was only given these 3 basic instructions.
----------------------------------------------------------------
This is not to boast about anything, but just for pointing out that, IMHO, the
simplest the best for first testing and figuring out how things could work.
I do believe that nature is simple and that we must also be simple and humble.
"Heureux les simples d'esprit, ils seront les premiers au royaume des cieux".
-----------------------------------------------------------------
At the beginning you got an egg. Then a chicken.....

...............................
I mean no offence but all this talk of engines and sparkplugs seems very premature, kind
of like deciding how to cook your chicken before you have an egg...
.....................................................

Now, just for the fun(?), some interpretations of 2 Tesla patents:





Do you see any differences?
I swear that I was not aware of my first drawing when I did the second one some weeks later.

Keep cool, the said Tesla patents are here:
http://freenrg.info/Patents/Tesla/TESLA_US00568177.pdf
http://freenrg.info/Patents/Tesla/TESLA_US00609250.pdf

Best

[qiman]

That video showed only a few seconds of a test. Not only long enough to see that the off time temp when shutting off has brought the temp down, but it did show that it did NOT increase it whereas for the same input conventionally with a regular spark DOES heat it up.

Here is what I also did to eliminate any interference, I measured the temp when it was off....ran it for several minutes...turn it off and measure again... the temp either stays the same or it drops. There is no effect from from EMP from the circuit, etc...

Anyway, everyone doing this probably has gotten this far. Just has anyone measured the temp of what they're getting?