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Overunity Machines Forum



URGENT! WATER AS FUEL DISCOVERY FOR EVERYONE TO SHARE

Started by gotoluc, June 26, 2008, 06:01:38 PM

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0 Members and 4 Guests are viewing this topic.

bumfuzzled

Blew up another inverter! Soon as I turned it on. Also tried a different ignition coil and still have to reverse the polarity on it to get a HV arc. I'm lost. It doesn't help that I don't understand exactly how the circuit works or that I don't really understand electronics that much so until somebody comes up with a fool proof circuit I give up!

k4zep

Hi gang,

Simple Glow R/C model engine modified with small shop tools to make a possible working engine of the type discussed on this list.  Here is the progress (just disassembly for now with a lot of thought) and a short discussion on what you must do to make a "simple" plasma/spark engine work using an engine of this type. 

I am simply trying to make a proof of concept engine from what I have available.  I don't have a car I can modify, I don't have a lawnmower I can modify, I do have a small 25 cc weed whacker engine I could modify but don't really have the room.  I live in a condo, my workshop is a 2 X 4 closet (worlds smallest lab) so I do with what I have.

I won't go into the electronics portion of what we need as that has been beaten to death and being a retired R&D and industrial electronic tec. the electronics is a non issue to me.....There are so many ways to make it work, that it basically boils down to how you want to do it. 

Mechanically you have to understand what is required and go from there.  You also have to understand what you are working with when you use a 2 cycle model motor.  Read up at any number of places on the net how one of these motors work and then stop and think what you will have to do to use it in this application.

To make a operating engine of this size, you must have a low friction embodiment of a IC engine.  When you have less than 1 cubic inch displacement, things have to be free AND lubricated. 

You have to have a reliable way to deliver an atomized mist to a spark plug.

You have to have an accurate exaust valve system to adjust the timing on the engine.

So what it all boils down to is you need a well lubricated pump, with water injection a spark plug and a timing valve!.

This is what I am doing.  Engine used is a FOX 78 R/C engine, to be modified this way.

1.  Carburetor which is a very nice close tolerance rotary valve throttle body injection device is removed from the intake at the front of the engine and will be used as an misting injector/rotary valve timing device.

2.  Intake will be blocked.

3.  Crankcase will be ventilated with discrete porting to remove positive/negative pressure as piston goes up and down.  The bottom of the crankcase becomes a zero pressure device and is filled partially with a light oil to keep the main bearings and connecting rod bearings lubricated.  Essentially a splash lubrication engine like a multitude of small lawn mower engines.

3a.  A moderate 6" flywheel will be mounted on the crankshaft where a propeller would normally be.

4.  Piston rings are removed to remove friction and piston is used and stands on its own close tolerance.

5.  Glow plug removed from and hole filled in with JB weld slow dry.

6. Carb unit is drilled and tapped to receive a 1/4 X 32 model spark plug UNDER the atomizing main jet.

7.  Head is machined on top to receive the throttle unit and it essentially becomes a throttle body/injector/valve unit.

8. Operation of the top end of the engine is as follows:   The throttle body will be open about 300 degrees of time during 1 rotation so as the piston comes up, there is very little pressure in the top end of the engine at this point.  After TDC, the piston will suck air in the venturi, over the needle valve assembly, drawing a mist into the engine and on the spark plug immediately under the needle valve.  @ about 35 degrees, give or take after TDC on the down stroke, the throttle body rotary valve will be snapped closed via a cam or a solenoid.  (remember this is just a proof of concept) the plug will fire, piston will continue downward and bottom porting as built into the engine will open and pressure be vented.  Throttle body will open, and remain open until the next downward movement of piston. Ruff guess, rotary valve will be closed ONLY during power pulse, probably about 40-60 degrees.   I don't know yet if I will operate it as a two cycle with power pulse every stoke or 4 cycle, every other downward stroke, time will tell on that.  Top lube will be by intermittent light oiling of throttle body assembly, there will also be blow by of mist out of the throttle body during the up stroke but as it is only water!!!! who cares and it will also provide lubrication to the rotary valve......

This engine is not designed to run for hundreds of hours or at high RPM. 60 to 100 rpm will be just fine! I just want it to run.  Thats all for now.  Tomorrow, the 4th here in the USA, we have a big party and celebrate our "Independence" so will get serious over the weekend, still waiting for spark plugs to come in the mail.

Pictures here as to what I am working with.




whopper1967

Hey xbox,condolences on your tv.I was looking at your circuit diagram,what would happen if your coil wasnt grounded at the base of the plug?Could that possibly make any difference at all?

bumfuzzled

I just remembered, S1R said something in a post a long time ago about using a seperate battery for the inverter. Maybe this is my problem, I need to isolate it. When I blew both of those inverters it was like it was feeding the 110 back into the inverter on the 12volt side. I have no trouble at all with using mains power and a rectifier, well not until today. I hooked up the primary side of the IC to a distributor I had laying around and was gonna use that to pulse it but when I hooked up the 110 to the circuit all hell broke loose. It blew up my rectifier and kicked the breaker. The distributor was laying on a metal table but the rest of the circuit was insulated. I guess it fed back thru the drill press that was on the same table somehow. This is why I'd like to know exactly how this circuit works, I mean the flow path of the electricity.

Tinker

K4zep

Thanks for heading into the ''NEXT STEP''.

The RC engine is a great candidate as it is as simple as an ICE can get.

THANK YOU and good luck.

Many here have focused on the circut but few if any have addressed the application based on what I see here, you would be the first. 

Be Well
Tinker