voltage amplification by flux exited self oscillating reed switch

[professor]

Hi all
I have been fascinated by the Voltage amplification that can be achieved by running your current through a Magnet or  better a magnetic field.
I confirmed that arcing onto a Magnet will give you a Gain which is reflected through a higher
output voltage on the secondary of a Transformer in this case an Automotive ignition Coil.
I tried various Metal and none Metal Conductors.
For the following experiments I used a half moon Shaped Neo Magnet out of an old HDD which came mounted on a  fastening Plate of what I assume is MU Metal as it has no mag. attraction on its opposite side.
The greatest gain comes off the Ends and the center of the lower (shorter) Arch.
One of the Magnets was damaged at the end (Nickel Plating peeled off) and exposed the Neo Material
Although it is off the End where  you should have the highest Gain there was no Gain at all when arcing to the mag. Material.
By arcing to the Magnet with the Mu Metal Plate fastened to the  pos. end of the Coil I tried the following:
Placing a Canadian Dime, Nickel or Toonie right onto the center ,across the flat Magnet using a tungsten rod as the electrode I was getting a good Spark but somewhat weaker.
Using Aluminum,Silver,Carbon,Graphite as the electrode there was no gain.
Using a thin piece of copper foil that I had peeled off the Carbon Welding Rods I was able to make the thin copper strip vibrate on top of the coin at the centre of the coin which displayed longer and wider arcs. Off to the sides or the Top of the coin I got little arcing.
If I held a Carbon Rod onto the + of the coil and struck it with a Tungsten Electrode there was no Gain
Still holding the Carbon Rod onto the Terminal but arcing the Electrode against the Copper Coating of these Welding Rods (Gauging Rods)I got a bit of Gain not using any Magnet.
It became apparent that the Magnetic Flux was responsible for the Gain and I thought of a way to do that by
subjecting a Reed Switch to the Magnetic flux,thus to have no electrical connection to the magnet at all.
I got a pleasant surprise not only was I able to draw a 5 mm arc from a 12Vdc automotive coil at 3 volt. 
There was no need to use a timer or other electronic device to have the contacts within the reed switch vibrate
and of course arc.
Arcing and rapid switching  of course raises a havoc with the contacts so I tried to bypass the Contacts with a .33uf cap, although the arcing was lessened the contact just welded together within a second.
I then paralleled the switch with a 27VDC Zener which reduced the Arcing but it reduced the output by more than a half.
The same happens if you are using the south pole of the rod type of Neo Magnet. You must use the north approaching the end of the switch.
I have 50 of these switches so I kept destroying them by trying different approaches. At full 12.6 VDC I drew arcs about 8 mm but the switches would'nt last.Current Limiting and running them at 3 to 6 VDC kind of makes them last a little longer.
I do have a flv Video but I am allowed 100Kb so there is not enough bandwidth to allow me to post it ,Sorry
Professor

[pese]

You will better use an "normal relais (from car) that can handle over 20 Amperes.
a ignition coil (cra) consume usually 6 tp 10 amps (different)
so an normal read relais will burn his contact fix after shoprt time.
also a 1N4007 is also to week. stronger  types you find in comutr supplies
(to remouve)  additiionally to the elecrolydt condensor , use in parallel an 0,1mf foil (or block-) condensor
Pese

Hi all
I have been fascinated by the Voltage amplification that can be achieved by running your current through a Magnet or  better a magnetic field.
I confirmed that arcing onto a Magnet will give you a Gain which is reflected through a higher
output voltage on the secondary of a Transformer in this case an Automotive ignition Coil.
I tried various Metal and none Metal Conductors.
For the following experiments I used a half moon Shaped Neo Magnet out of an old HDD which came mounted on a  fastening Plate of what I assume is MU Metal as it has no mag. attraction on its opposite side.
The greatest gain comes off the Ends and the center of the lower (shorter) Arch.
One of the Magnets was damaged at the end (Nickel Plating peeled off) and exposed the Neo Material
Although it is off the End where  you should have the highest Gain there was no Gain at all when arcing to the mag. Material.
By arcing to the Magnet with the Mu Metal Plate fastened to the  pos. end of the Coil I tried the following:
Placing a Canadian Dime, Nickel or Toonie right onto the center ,across the flat Magnet using a tungsten rod as the electrode I was getting a good Spark but somewhat weaker.
Using Aluminum,Silver,Carbon,Graphite as the electrode there was no gain.
Using a thin piece of copper foil that I had peeled off the Carbon Welding Rods I was able to make the thin copper strip vibrate on top of the coin at the centre of the coin which displayed longer and wider arcs. Off to the sides or the Top of the coin I got little arcing.
If I held a Carbon Rod onto the + of the coil and struck it with a Tungsten Electrode there was no Gain
Still holding the Carbon Rod onto the Terminal but arcing the Electrode against the Copper Coating of these Welding Rods (Gauging Rods)I got a bit of Gain not using any Magnet.
It became apparent that the Magnetic Flux was responsible for the Gain and I thought of a way to do that by
subjecting a Reed Switch to the Magnetic flux,thus to have no electrical connection to the magnet at all.
I got a pleasant surprise not only was I able to draw a 5 mm arc from a 12Vdc automotive coil at 3 volt. 
There was no need to use a timer or other electronic device to have the contacts within the reed switch vibrate
and of course arc.
Arcing and rapid switching  of course raises a havoc with the contacts so I tried to bypass the Contacts with a .33uf cap, although the arcing was lessened the contact just welded together within a second.
I then paralleled the switch with a 27VDC Zener which reduced the Arcing but it reduced the output by more than a half.
The same happens if you are using the south pole of the rod type of Neo Magnet. You must use the north approaching the end of the switch.
I have 50 of these switches so I kept destroying them by trying different approaches. At full 12.6 VDC I drew arcs about 8 mm but the switches would'nt last.Current Limiting and running them at 3 to 6 VDC kind of makes them last a little longer.
I do have a flv Video but I am allowed 100Kb so there is not enough bandwidth to allow me to post it ,Sorry
Professor

[mscoffman]

Along the lines of what pese is saying; Use a larger schotky power diode out of used
20Khz-100Khz computer switching supply, as they have better specs. Use a low ESR
electrolytic capacitor out of a used CRT computer monitor. You can bypass the relay
contacts with a very small cap. start with like 40pf. to lower damage of the arc on the
switch contacts. You can use a reverse diode to reroute residual coil  b-emf back
emf around the switch contacts. The lower the b-emf impedance the faster the coil magfield
can collapse. A vehicle has to start when it's battery is below optimal battery voltage
so thats why the coil will work well at lower voltages. I can't guarantee that any of the above
will create higher output voltage but they will lessen switch contact damage.

:S:MarkSCoffman

[professor]

Hi Pese
You did not get the jest of the experimentation it was simply to prove a Concept without the use of electronics..Being an Electronic tech all my Life having aprenticed for GRUNDIG , believe me I know.I did not want to use Brute force but achieved a 5 mm arc with 3VDC on a 12VDC Coil. Try to do that with your Relay at 3VDC! The 1N4007 was strictly for isolation and if it can not handle the Back EMF of 3VDC or 90 ma forward current I eat my Hat. 
Magnetic Flux creates a larger arc's by being pulled towards the vortex or for better towards the point where the lines meet and as with Tesla's spark gap the bigger the arc the larger the Output,all other thing's relative . Passing a current through a Magnet or Magnetic field does nothing for you.
Try and explain why the contacts chatter when subjected to a north Magnetic field.
I know why,but lets see if you do.
Maybe also take a closer look at the Video on U-tube
Professor

You will better use an "normal relais (from car) that can handle over 20 Amperes.
a ignition coil (cra) consume usually 6 tp 10 amps (different)
so an normal read relais will burn his contact fix after shoprt time.
also a 1N4007 is also to week. stronger  types you find in comutr supplies
(to remouve)  additiionally to the elecrolydt condensor , use in parallel an 0,1mf foil (or block-) condensor
Pese

[professor]

HiI MarkSCoffman
Look at my answer to Pese that way I need not to repeat myself.
I used from 470pf up to .33uf , MOV's and RC Networks etc and I accomplished to quench  arcing caused by the b-emf but also had a major reduction in the output, being something that I did not want. Also it reduced the bounce on the contacts which kept them from welding together. From .01uf on up it caused the contacts to seize Weld together . I do have schottky Diodes no need for them in this application.
The large Capacitor was inserted  to protect my Power supply but it was really not needed at 3 or 6 VDC .
Professor




quote author=mscoffman link=topic=5545.msg126160#msg126160 date=1221328833]
Along the lines of what pese is saying; Use a larger schotky power diode out of used
20Khz-100Khz computer switching supply, as they have better specs. Use a low ESR
electrolytic capacitor out of a used CRT computer monitor. You can bypass the relay
contacts with a very small cap. start with like 40pf. to lower damage of the arc on the
switch contacts. You can use a reverse diode to reroute residual coil  b-emf back
emf around the switch contacts. The lower the b-emf impedance the faster the coil magfield
can collapse. A vehicle has to start when it's battery is below optimal battery voltage
so thats why the coil will work well at lower voltages. I can't guarantee that any of the above
will create higher output voltage but they will lessen switch contact damage.

:S:MarkSCoffman



[/quote]