The Lloyd Tanner Heater..Nearly A Closed Loop

[Paul-R]

If you put a blunt shaft into a power drill, and push it running into a
piece of wood, the wood will get very hot, and soon catch fire. This
is not clever because if the electricity put into the drill was put into
the wood with some sort of heater, it would get very hot.

How is this development different?

[rickoff]

@Rick,

I registered on your site a few days ago, and am acknowledged as a member there...but am still restricted to reading text only.  Has this happened to anyone else, or is it just me ?

Hi Cap,

Sometimes it takes several days before a new member is approved, but you can speed that up by sending a e-mail request to info@esmhome.org and ask them to expedite approval.  Be sure to include your username with the request.

Regards,

Rick

[rickoff]

If you put a blunt shaft into a power drill, and push it running into a
piece of wood, the wood will get very hot, and soon catch fire. This
is not clever because if the electricity put into the drill was put into
the wood with some sort of heater, it would get very hot.

How is this development different?

The difference is that Lloyd Tanner only uses green, unseasoned wood in his device.  The moisture content, sap, and resins in the wood prevent the wood from catching fire.  At most, it will only char a bit as the wood slowly wears down.

Rick

[Paul-R]

The difference is that Lloyd Tanner only uses green, unseasoned wood in his device.  The moisture content, sap, and resins in the wood prevent the wood from catching fire....

It'll take longer to catch fire. That's all.

We do need to know the current and voltage going in, and the rate of increase in the temperature
of the water to have any idea if the development has interest.
Paul.

[fuzzytomcat]

It'll take longer to catch fire. That's all.

We do need to know the current and voltage going in, and the rate of increase in the temperature
of the water to have any idea if the development has interest.
Paul.

Hi Paul-R,

In the conversation that "Rickoff" had with "Lloyd Tanner" he indicated that the "Friction Heater" uses a 1 HP capacitor start motor the "Nation Electric Code" says at 115 volts it will use 16 amps "Full Load" current thats 115 x 16 = 1840 watts of electricity for complete operation. This device used for heating air and or water operates "ON Demand" similar to a Gas or Oil furnace running (10 minutes + - ) for short periods of time, only if you wish to use this device to create electricity would this device run continuously.

The trough that contains the friction hardwood is closed tight as all submitted drawings and video suggest to help stop any combustion, without free flowing air. The use of only "Green" hardwoods (oak, walnut, cherry ....) are use Lloyd Tanner used oak , in my concept design I can use "Iron Wood" from Brazil "Caesalpinia ferrea" (15 species world wide) it's has been used as bearings for hundreds of years and is the hardest wood known, rock hard with natural oils (won't burn) and is so dense it sinks in water does not float, to create the friction on the hub or rotor.

There is "NO" water storage that heats up to boiling creating steam, it's the transfer of friction heat to the steam storage chamber bottom that reaches temperatures above 500 degrees F and controlled drops of water that hit the "bottom" of the steam chamber (as indicated in my drawing submitted in this thread) immediately turning the water into steam for what ever usage you want (other drawings can be seen at Energetic Forum or Rickoff's site).

This is not a water "Boiler" in the definition of, only in construction of, considered by steam and pressure.

Please note if the motor had a supply of electricity using solar cells and batteries to start the operation and create steam to heat and make electricity ...... is self running possible ..... only 1840 watts 115 volts is needed to heat your whole house, water (140 Degrees F) and create a small amount of electricity with the steam made to recharge the batteries.

Regards,
Fuzzy