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Overunity Machines Forum



Joule Thief

Started by Pirate88179, November 20, 2008, 03:07:58 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 81 Guests are viewing this topic.

freepow

Does any one know what the limit is for a joule thief, can you light an older 40 or 60 or 70 watt globe...the ones that have been replaced by the newer fluoro's ???

Also if I can light a 4 watt fluro tube, will I be able to light a 20 watter with full brightness ????

stprue

I would say most of the time you won't get a tube to full brightness!  LED's are the most effective!

Pirate88179

Quote from: stprue on October 13, 2009, 09:49:42 AM
I would say most of the time you won't get a tube to full brightness!  LED's are the most effective!

I agree.

Bill
See the Joule thief Circuit Diagrams, etc. topic here:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6942.0;topicseen

Artic_Knight

there are 2 parts shown in read one is a inductor and the other a diode, those are the additions i have made to a already presented curcuit by another member.

my question is rather do you think the inductor will prevent the spikes from traveling the normal path and force them through the battery? or would another part be better suited for this setup? perhaps a different setup in all?

one inductor capacitor and resistor is needed to turn the transistor off and on. the other 3 inductors and diodes will be additional parts only needed to produce the relevant energy spike and with any luck charge the battery (more likely to just desulfate and rundown the battery)

any ideas or suggestions? comments? 

im posting this here because i believe this is where i got it origionally and it seems to be funded on some basic principles of the joule thief.

thanks

resonanceman

Quote from: Artic_Knight on October 13, 2009, 06:49:31 PM
there are 2 parts shown in read one is a inductor and the other a diode, those are the additions i have made to a already presented curcuit by another member.

my question is rather do you think the inductor will prevent the spikes from traveling the normal path and force them through the battery? or would another part be better suited for this setup? perhaps a different setup in all?

one inductor capacitor and resistor is needed to turn the transistor off and on. the other 3 inductors and diodes will be additional parts only needed to produce the relevant energy spike and with any luck charge the battery (more likely to just desulfate and rundown the battery)

any ideas or suggestions? comments? 

im posting this here because i believe this is where i got it origionally and it seems to be funded on some basic principles of the joule thief.

thanks

Artic_Knight

From  my experience  I would have to say that   your additions  will  create  a flyback  pulse that will  go back to the battery .......IF  the  inductor  you choose is not to large .

If   you choose an inductor that it to large  it will choke the circuit  and you  probably  will end up  with less than 1 V


If   you choose  the right  inductor    will  it  charge  up your battery .
One inductor .......... No .
I  have  got  to  a state   of  powering  a small load and charging  a battery  for  a while .
The  problem seems to be  that  the circuit  seems to be built around  a natural resonance at  that particular  power  or voltate .   
As  the battery charges   the   circuit  drifts out of resonance . ......and  the battery  discharges
I  can keep it  charging  by  simply  adjusting  a pot every few hours ..... but I  don;t have  a simple  easy way  to  automate the  adjustments .

It  usually  takes  a  string of  7to 9 inductors  to   reach the self charging state .
Most of those inductors  have 2 windings,  one of the  windings is  used for making flyback .......the other for  feedback directlly to  the batttery . 


gary