Induction motors and capacitors lowers amps "consumption"

[Kyoat]

RE: Inverter and 1 Hp Emerson motor

Yesterday we wired a 8-D Battery to our 3500Watt/7000Watt surge full sign wave Inverter.
We installed a 100 Amp meter in line between the battery and the inverter.
We plugged in a Kill-a-Watt meter between the Inverter and the 1 HP 1Phase 115 Volt Emerson motor.
The Emerson motor was connected by V-belt to a 60 lb flywheel.

Amp draw from battery was over 100 amps when switch turned on.  Emerson motor tried to start, then Inverter circuit breaker popped.

Removed V-belt from flywheel
reset inverter and turned on.
Initial amp draw from battery was high (failed to record it)
Amp draw from inverter was recorded at 9.58 amps

Brought on-line 207 Uf run capacitors to Emerson motor
Amp draw from inverter dropped to 1.86 amps

We determined that the single 8D battery did not have sufficient Amps to handle the start up phase of the motor under the load of the 60 Lb flywheel.  We will need to locate and add an additional 8D battery to the inverter.  Or the other possible problem could be the 100 amp meter that we placed in line between the battery and inverter. Might have to get a larger one to handle the initial Amp draw at start up.
_________________________________________________________________________

Just as a test we did the following:

We unplugged the Emerson motor from the inverter.
Reinstalled the v-belt onto the flywheel.
plugged the Emerson into house current and started the emerson-flywheel to full rotation with the 207 Uf caps installed
Quickly unplugged it from house current and plugged it into the inverter and turned on.

Inverter power to emerson-flywheel draw was 2.14 Amps!
Amp draw from battery was between 10 and 15 Amps!

Our next step will be to add the second 8D battery for higher amps for start up and if this is successful we will then bring on line the 35 amp alternator to charge the batteries.

We will update as we get the info.   Kyoat

[hoptoad]

Good Luck .... Keep on keepin on !

Below is a link to an interesting site which relates a bit to your research. It was posted a few days ago by Thane Heinz on his thread.

http://trias-innovations.com/inductionmotor.aspx

Cheers

[Anothertruthfinder]

Hi everyone thought id post quickly - did a test of this concept on a clip on fan (240ac 50hz) with a wattmeter and separate multimeter - just put the cap parallel over the hi speed switch setting and the live leg

no cap added wattmeter displays 14.9/15.0 watts and reported voltage -  238, reported current draw - 105 milliamps - i make that 24.99 watts? is my meter lying to me?
with 1uf 400v cap added - meter reports 14.7/14.8 watts, reported voltage - 238, reported current draw - 65 milliamps - 15.47 watts?

what id like to know is in the real world was this using 24.99 watts originally or 14.9/15.0 and 15.47 watts or 14.7/14.8 with cap added? - my mutlimeter gave the same readings when i carefully tested in series at the plug between the live leg so basic electrics is telling me i have saved roughly ten watts but the watt meter barely changes - i noticed the same effect with kyoats setup.

can someone help me out here in my ignorance please?

cheers - eel 

[nueview]

 High all
trying to explain this phenomina is a little dificult as it requires a bit of changing your understanding of what these energies are and how they work but electrons are not what they are represented to be so will do my best with this line of thought Grunfus and Taco have been using this practice with there plumbing circulating pumps for some time now as it reduces overall power consumption of the boiler system while still providing full power output with torque.
energy when it is seperated to its two parts of current and voltage are what forms all power be it ac or dc and the reaction causes resistance in circuits but in a coil and capacitor tank circuit frequency comes into play and the basic nature of how these two react individually with these components allows them to cycle seperate of the normal power not being consumed as one is normally tought but rather loosing only a small amount to outside influence this causes current within the loop to rise to a maximum level and impede outside line current flow through this circuit type the power you buy is deminished and the power generated within the circuit is used to drive the motor if you play with or manipulate the volume of the capacitance a bit you should get an even better result because the readings you stated seem to indicate that you have not yet reached a point of power factor correction if on the kill -a -watt  meter this number needs to get as close to 1 as you can get it for best results we typically get around .8
there are several electrical books that can explain this better or in more detail so please feel free to ask more questions.

[Anothertruthfinder]

hi thanks for your response nueview - kinda got what you meant hehe  i need to do some homework i guess - my meter is not specifically a 'kill-a-watt' meter but one similar except i cant find the power factor - can i work it out with the data i have available? volts, current, frequency, capacitance or is my meter correct in that in reality it was only .1-.2 of a watt difference? i will tune also - i think i might need to up my scale of things and try the inverter/gen combo - i believe kyoat is trying this too -
thanks again
    eel