Stator and Rotor how to make help needed!

[infringer]

Too sweet 440bux I might be in budget if I purchase one of these and I build my barrel turbine this forum kicks rear! Don't really wanna erect the turbine so to speak errrr! at that price ready made though is the first fair price I have seen thus far.

Sucks its only for the month of April though... Kinda pushy makes me question weather it is legit or a scam... I suppose if it were I have relatives in AZ that could take care of it!

errr yeah cityguy dunno whats up with him.



Michelinho, I don't know how to thank you bud you have been a great help taking time out of your day everyday for someone you don't even know man much appreciated that is too cool man!

The wattage being higher was the result I would expect as well with a larger rotor but now that I need this rotor to be a rotor from say an automotive or trailer part I will reduce the size a bit unless I can somehow shield my magnets in a different manner.

Anyhow still looking I would love to just try glassing them in but I don't care to waste 100bux on mags and have them not put out nothing obviously I want to maximize output from an design already made.

Well I will have to cut out for now until tonight lots of cleaning to do spring is here.

[tbird]

hi infringer,

this page (really his whole website) maybe helpful too if you decide to build yourself.

http://www.windstuffnow.com/main/builders_corner.htm


in the instructions for putting his kit together, you'll find info on how to wind coils, etc.

http://www.windstuffnow.com/turbine%20kit.pdf

i bought one of his kits.  i have to say i like it.  it is just right for learning and still end up with something a bit bigger than the first.  it will cost a bit more by the time all parts are counted, but still not a bad price.

those steel plates really make a difference!  with a rotor with magnets facing stator, on both sides of the stator, the flux that would normally spread out all around the magnet (without the steel plate) will be channeled between a north magnet on one disk and a south (facing) on the other disk.  this is where the stator lives.  this gives a lot more available flux to make power as it passes the coils.

he is really nice and easy to get along with.  he even welded (at a real cheap price) the few pieces together for me before shipping

tom. 

[clflyguy]

Geeez, guys....
  I take Good Friday off and y'all think I jumped ship. I had chores to do.

A trailer hub with its stub axle welded onto the end of a piece of something (pipe, channel, angle, trailer undercariage parts) puts the underside of the machine
and the alternator not much higher than your head (hopefuly) for ease of maintenance. Trailer hub already has conical bearings for end thrust. Use white lithium
grease and be liberal with it.

  Price two 3/8" thick 20" dia. waterjet cut pieces of plate mild steel, or use the brake discs, either way I can give you CAD or .jpg drawings for the parts
in a few min. based on a 5 lug pattern typical in the U.S..

  A sidenote though, if going with the 20" dia. alt., I would go 3 barrels high, as the resistance to movement upon reaching cut-in speed
(magnet/coil) even though electrically is virtually the same as on a 12 or 13" dia. brake rotor, it is not the same from a mechanical standpoint because
the location of the resistance (magnet coil- think of mechanical friction) is about 65% further away from the center of rotation which gives it a great deal more
mechanical advantage. (Thats why big dia. disc brakes stop you faster than small ones)

  To get what you want, with what you want to work with is going to take an alt that cuts in at a fairly low speed which means big coils... Speaking of which,
Michelinho said to wind your coils bifilar- I would say wind one that way and one the regular way and test them both individually- I seem to recall a lot of hubbub
a while back about bifilar coils not being inductive and not being right for the axial flux alts. I'm not an electronics guy so I'm not the oracle on that- GOOGLETIME!
I do know that a bifilar wound electromagnet is incredibly strong though- I have a little 1"x.25"x5" piece of mild steel with 3 layers of 50 turns wrapped in the
bifilar manner that will lift 6lbs. with a1.5v AA battery- incredible. Try a Google search of the Otherpower board on the bifilar stuff though, I seem to recall some problem.
  Pick an operating voltage so we can figure coil size and stuff. I will include some sketches of what I'm thinking about and you can tell me what to change and I'll attach
the edited version each time we talk- we can design this machine right here on the 'board, should be fun...

so, to start... (I hope it attached) here is one of my magnet rotors, easy to make and already has the convenience of being "componentized" to be used on a trailer hub.

[clflyguy]

OK,
  Some sketches I drew up real quick, this first one is to scale with Mr. Ergo who is 6' tall to give a sense of size.

[clflyguy]

Wow, OK,
  If you hit enter it submits instantly..
This next one is a closeup of the alt from the side with the bottom most plywood disc and the axle stub that is to be welded to whatever elevated support.