Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

[sigis]

Not sure if you mean me, but yes, I'm quite sure.

Here is how you can prove it yourself, Naudin had 2100W bulbs lit from 205 watts in, now in reality there must with this circuit being so basic and a hot spark gap be, radiating EMF, resistance through the ground  10% of the input power would be wasted so that would be a max of 184W that could under rather improbably ideal circumstances power the bulbs.

The bulbs are reasonably well lit but not super bright but if we were to assume full power 2100W / 184W = 11.4 times OU!
For it to be unity the bulbs would need to be lit to only less that one eleventh of their full power.

So why don't you do the following for us, take a 150W halogen bulb and light it with 13W and take it outside and have grass in the background, let's see how bright it is!

Unless I am terribly mistaken you are going to get at best a dim red filament glow, so go ahead assume his power input  were half or wait, try a quarter of what he was really putting in so now give it 52W, does it look as bright as as JLN's bulbs?  I doubt it.

If you are a diehard skeptic or MIB you won't be convinced, and if you are looking for absolute certainty you may not be fully convinced.
But there is enough reason to be  SURE that there is relatively easy reproducible OU result with this setup, so don't criticize, BUILD IT if you care about being constructive and improve the measurement procedure.

And of course it is reasonably similar to Kapanadze's device and that can be looped so we know that OU results are possible with similar setups.

This is as much certainty as you will find in experimental OU, if it's not enough to get you building you are in the wrong place!

Hello,
it is very easy to measure true output power. Only Luxmeter for measurement of light strength is necessary. Luxmeter is possible to buy from e-bay etc. for 50$. Just cover one lamp by cardboard box, on the top make hole for luxmeter. Measure how many Lux you have from Kapagen. Then Kapagen switch of, ant connect to the lamp variac, and adjust voltage by variac to the same brightness of lamp. Measure voltage and current 50Hz on lamp.

[exnihiloest]

...
why those setups behave  SO different.. we ALL have  the SAME schematics

The main causes are likely:

1) The earth connections are not the same. They may have very different resistances and different impedances due to local conditions, modifying the resonance frequencies of the coil and the losses.

2) The spark creates HF currents in the secundary, then also in the primary. This can greatly perturb the power measurement.

[xenomorphlabs]

You could make the measurement at a certain distance from the spark gap if you arrange your wiring to the device accordingly. HF chokes in series to the ampmeter should greatly reduce the HF currents and maybe allow a better measurement.

But the luxmeter idea will at least roughly give an idea of the true power levels.

[starcruiser]

The most likely causes are;

1. diameter of the winding form
2. gauge of wire used
3. Type of wire used (Copper, other mix, stranded, solid core, etc...)
4. actual output voltage
5. Quality of the ground connections (rod and wire used)

The biggest issue I see is the voltage level used, everyone is trying to less voltage when more is what is called for, The original design was using a Tesla Coil driver which is far more than 2kv, even Smith uses 6~9kv NST with diodes and caps. Current is not required but Voltage, more voltage less current, the MOT is a Brute Force method, Naudlin is using a doubler circuit to boost his output to roughly 4kv right? this is getting close to the magic level I think.

The Cap idea for the input side to limit the current into the MOT is a good starting point but perhaps after playing with the MOT design a 12vdc setup using a car ignition coil and mercury tube spark gap might be the ticket. This will get you HV at lower current and not want to kill you perhaps.

Try a 555 timer circuit to control a darlington transistor pair to switch the car coil and use a Rheostat to control the primary input voltage to the coil, the output will require a rectification (Diodes or that Mercury tube SG), a CAP may or may-not be required here. Remember to switch the ground on the coil not the B+

Other steps after this are required to get a loop-able design but we must take baby steps first to make sure we understand what is happening. I hope this info is taken as it was given a suggestion of an alternative path to explore.

[xenomorphlabs]

The original design was using a Tesla Coil driver which is far more than 2kv, even Smith uses 6~9kv NST with diodes and caps.

What original design?