Bedini SSG - self sustaining

[plengo]

This is a regular Bedini SSG using a 48v computer fan instead of the classic wheel with magnets.

This system will charge the output battery and ALSO charge the driving battery at the same time.

[plengo]

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[Goat]

Hi there Plengo...long time no hear..

So from what I have seen from your pictures it's a Bedini Imhotep modification but on a 48v computer fan instead of the classic Bedini wheel with magnets or the Imhotep  12v computer fan mod but using a 48v system to run and charge as well as maintain the system.

Your pictures are showing the Imhotep modification on a 48v fan but where's the rest of the circuit to charge and maintain the source.

Sorry for all the questions, humanity is running out of time, 2010 is nigh.

Regards,
Paul

[plengo]

@Paul,

I know time is running out very fast. You are correct in stating that this is indeed the Imhotep  48 volts modified fan and the pictures are the SAME of the other thread from Fusionchip(http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6519.msg149358#msg149358). In fact the whole fan is exactly the same as the other thread which I dont want to duplicate the explanations here more than Imhotep have done.

So for all that want to participate take a look at how Imhotep have modified the fan in this youtube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDS9qk-Nw4M. Also simple google search should provide lots of information about this fan.

I am using a 48 volts fan which was very cheap. I found it at this address http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/220100/Fans/D.C.-Fans/1.html. Check also the thread from Fusionchip at http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6519.msg152301#msg152301.


The circuit is a regular SSG Bedini system, except that there is no wheel. The fan is the wheel. A few new parts - an extra battery and one more diode N5408. There will be no magnets hanging on the fan neither it will be necessary to have tricky parts from legacy systems or defunct components. IT IS A SIMPLE SSG with the 48 volts fan.

I am on the works of the explanations of the step by step in how to make this happen so just hold you breaths that I will very soon post more pictures, videos and explanations of how to do it and why i think it is working.

Fausto.

[plengo]

Ok here it goes the process.

Make sure that the 3 batteries voltages are equal when starting if possible, if not, put the higher voltage holding battery in the back-end (B3) and the smallest holding voltage battery in the front-end in place of B2. Make sure switch SW1 is off (not shorted).

Run the system as shown on the picture and you should have a fan running around 230 rpm. You will notice that the back-end will charge as the system runs but If you let this system run long enough the front-end will simply drain and you will get the same results as everyone has. No overunity, no surprises and no fun.

The osciloscope pictures are taken from the positive terminal of the front-end (B2) and the collector of the transistor 3055.

There are two things that I noticed when running this system for many, many hours (I have been sick for days so i dont have much to do but just observe). One is that the back-end does indeed charge while the front-end just depletes (as everyone already knows that). Second, there is point where the combination (or difference) of voltage on the back-end and the front-end will be such that the system runs and temporarily the front-end will seam to be raising in voltage while the back-end also raise in voltage. That's what I call "system out of balance".

The difference in voltage from the front-end and the back-end is such that it allows that seamly weird behavior with both ends raising the voltage while the system runs. THIS IS FUNDAMENTAL.

One MUST put the system to run in this "out of balance" state until it reachs an equilibrium where it is now on the "balanced" state where the front-end will start to lower its voltage while the back-end may or may not raise in voltage. If you let it run long enough in this state you will simply deplete the front-end and again, no fun.

The Switchs SW1 and SW2 are used to force the system to be in a "out of balance" state. I still dont have a very scientific process to "how to swtich" correctly but my error and trials have been working well with the following process: Stop the fan, keep switch SW1 ON (shorted) while swtiching SW2 to point A first until voltage of the back-end drops and the front-end raises until roughly both have the same voltage. That should be around 5 seconds. Switch to B (keep SW1 ON) until back-end raises sharply. The should be around 2 seconds. Switch to A (keep SW1 ON) again until front-end is around 0.1 volts LESS then back-end voltage.  Turn off Switch SW1.

Now let the system run and watch the voltage on the front-end and the back-end raise as it runs. You have now a system "out of balance" and it will drive itself to a "balanced" state. The fan will run slower now and slowly will accelerate until you repeat the whole process again.

Take notes of the total and individual voltages and you will notice that the batteries are actually raising and charging to a higher value than when you started.

In my test setup I have been doing this over and over and over again and as the back-end charges to a greater differential of potential in relation to the front-end more difficult it is for me to keep doing that, and that simply because I still dont know what is the differential in voltage necessary to have a good "unbalanced" state yet.

When that a persistent "balanced" state is reached I simply switch the battery from the back-end (B3) with battery B1 or B2 from the front-end forcing it to be "out of balance" again.

Simple.

Fausto.

ps: videos and notes are on the way.
ps: Off course I can be totally wrong and my numbers are simply deceiving me but on my calculations using an spreadsheet I DO see an increase in total voltage on the system. That's why I need you guys to replicate this and tell me if I am craizy or not!