Tesla IMPEDANCE PHENOMENA - FIG 183C

[darkspeed]

Lookin' good...

Now crank it up.

Don't think that an "unusual oscillation" that looks like noise is "nothing" - this may be something that just needs a little push to become an "unusual current".

Thanks, I wanted to see a result with the 9volt before I push it.

On an interesting note.. there are a few volts difference between each shell when measured with the meter... including the outer coil shell.. so it seeing a coil the same as a plate. There is also no measurable difference in voltage between legs of each shell. Seems the expanding field is static..

[Grumpy]

Thanks, I wanted to see a result with the 9volt before I push it.

On an interesting note.. there are a few volts difference between each shell when measured with the meter... including the outer coil shell.. so it seeing a coil the same as a plate. There is also no measurable difference in voltage between legs of each shell. Seems the expanding field is static..

If static, then modulate it.

You can modulate another field in the same space such as with a large solenoid around the whole thing or capacitive plates or modulate the fields causing this static field by varying the current or voltage or timing.  How 'bout them triodes?

Wrong timing with strong modulated fields or containment failure and BAM!

Also, if you do modulate it, effects may vary with frequency and tuning may be sharp for particular results.

Hole a conductive object near a conductive point of the circuit on one side of the gap and then the other and look for a thin whisp of a spark to the object in your hand a tingling or prickly or painful sensation.  Get a pic of this if you see it.

[darkspeed]

If static, then modulate it.

You can modulate another field in the same space such as with a large solenoid around the whole thing or capacitive plates or modulate the fields causing this static field by varying the current or voltage or timing.  How 'bout them triodes?

Wrong timing with strong modulated fields or containment failure and BAM!

Also, if you do modulate it, effects may vary with frequency and tuning may be sharp for particular results.

Hole a conductive object near a conductive point of the circuit on one side of the gap and then the other and look for a thin whisp of a spark to the object in your hand a tingling or prickly or painful sensation.  Get a pic of this if you see it.

Dam Grumpy your in my head again...

If you connect the shell to ground it dumps like a cap
If you leave it grounded it wont build up a charge.
If you get really close to ground it pops really fast and you almost cant see the spark..
The closer you get the higher the voltage between ground - and shell.
By the way the brass rods that are on the outside of the glass will shock the crap out of you - like a cap.
Tried modulating it with a 120v neon and it just shorts it out, next step is a triode > 1:1 transformer > full bridge > battery?
The cylinder is dumping ozone..
This is getting interesting...
This may not look TPU related.. but it is..

Time to move up to the 12v and bigger caps

[Grumpy]

Dam Grumpy your in my head again...

If you connect the shell to ground it dumps like a cap
If you leave it grounded it wont build up a charge.
If you get really close to ground it pops really fast and you almost cant see the spark..
The closer you get the higher the voltage between ground - and shell.
By the way the brass rods that are on the outside of the glass will shock the crap out of you - like a cap.
Tried modulating it with a 120v neon and it just shorts it out, next step is a triode > 1:1 transformer > full bridge > battery?
The cylinder is dumping ozone..
This is getting interesting...
This may not look TPU related.. but it is..

Time to move up to the 12v and bigger caps

Sorry bout the mind stuff - I tend to do that

Connect each leg of an incandescent bulb to a diode (two diodes total), opposite polarity and then connect the diodes together, like a Y  - connect the joined diode ends to the shell - no ground - see if the bulb lights.   Can also try a resistor or neon or whatever you have a for a load.  Let it build up a little before you connect the bulb.  Might try a 12v car bulb or flashlight bulb first.  Better dielectric may stop it from dumping (did for me), but if the dielectric fails (saturates) - big BanG!  Sheet of UHMW PE?  PTFE would be sweet.

Shell is collecting the source free thingies, but is not a current - yet.

Very intuitive build - KUDOs!

What are you detecting?  Should see the oscillation now.

[darkspeed]

Sorry bout the mind stuff - I tend to do that

Connect each leg of an incandescent bulb to a diode (two diodes total), opposite polarity and then connect the diodes together, like a Y  - connect the joined diode ends to the shell - no ground - see if the bulb lights.   Can also try a resistor or neon or whatever you have a for a load.  Let it build up a little before you connect the bulb.  Might try a 12v car bulb or flashlight bulb first.  Better dielectric may stop it from dumping (did for me), but if the dielectric fails (saturates) - big BanG!  Sheet of UHMW PE?  PTFE would be sweet.

Shell is collecting the source free thingies, but is not a current - yet.

Very intuitive build - KUDOs!

What are you detecting?  Should see the oscillation now.

Thanks
I will try the incandescent bulb.
I know it will fire a 120v neon nicely
I put a 63vdc cap between a shell and ground, no diodes, and it does charge the cap.
I have it cycling slowly but every time it fires the meter shows the cap charging.
Only works when shell is cap+