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Overunity Machines Forum



Magnetic amplification and neutralization motor by Art Porter

Started by LarryC, February 20, 2010, 05:07:38 PM

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0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

petersone

Hi Darkspeed
Thanks for your reply,it looks like the people you mention are in the US,I'm in the UK,may be a prob.I'll see if I can get it here,what is c-200 wire?
peter

darkspeed

Quote from: petersone on February 24, 2010, 07:54:55 AM
Hi Darkspeed
Thanks for your reply,it looks like the people you mention are in the US,I'm in the UK,may be a prob.I'll see if I can get it here,what is c-200 wire?
peter

it is a high build ( thick coating ) high temp magnet wire

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=magnet+wire+200c


darkspeed

Quote from: petersone on February 24, 2010, 07:54:55 AM
Hi Darkspeed
Thanks for your reply,it looks like the people you mention are in the US,I'm in the UK,may be a prob.I'll see if I can get it here,what is c-200 wire?
peter

You can go to a metal supply in the UK and get iron stock and have it annealed ( in an oven ) to a "dead soft" condition and it will work as well.
Dont annealed it then machine it - machine it then anneal it!


LarryC

On the left in the attached picture is some additional info on Art's motor. The Metal Arc's are 60 degrees and the poles are 45 degrees apart, same as the cores(not shown).

On the right is a stator from a induction pancake type ceiling fan motor. It is make of laminated motor steel and could be cut into six 60 degree section. This could be used to make Art's prototype or the armature shown in video no. 2.

Notice the different color metal on the top and bottom, but only half way across the thickness. It is part of the shorting bar of an induction motor. It needs to be chisled off (soft material) and grind down any remaining metal to stop the magnetic field it would create, as it is would pull against the cores.

After doing the pull test, I'm sure this motor would work as stated. It seems easier to build then the other mag switch motors. I still have some questions on the coil parameter. But before deciding to build, I'm going to do some test on a large possible induction gain.

If the secondary was shorted before the start of the pulse to eliminate the induction and decrease the time it takes to align the core. Then if opened before the end of the pulse to get maximum induction, a large back emf would be created. The back emf also support the magnetic field polarity. It could shorten the pulse time required. This back emf can be seen in reply 20 scope shot with the open secondary. It is falling until the next pulse starts. 


Regards, Larry 

Low-Q

Good observations Larry. I think if the motor works because of the amplification, and the extra/free force you get from that, the shape of the arcs or the poles are not critical. I think the shape in the motor is made to minimize cogging. But cogging should not be a reason why this motor shouldn't work.

I think you can make this motor just as you like if you use coils and magnets, and use triggers correctly. The main thing here is the (claimed) difference between input energy and amplified force.

As in any conventional electrical motor, the construction is rather made optimized to get most possible efficiency. However, regardless on how you make an electric motor, it will work just fine if the timing of the polarity swapping is within a given period. Going beyond this period, the motor will reverse. If hitting the "dead" spot, the motor will just consume energy, get warm, and do not rotate. Hitting the "right" spot, and the motor will run very well.

Vidar