1:
if i stick COPPER (attached to positive multimeter lead)
and STEEL (attached to negative multimeter lead)
into a body of ELMER'S SCHOOL GLUE (neutral),
i will get almost a volt of DC electricity,
at a few milli-amps of current.
this effect seems to last forever.
the DC voltage is UNAFFECTED, by location, position to anything, how hard i am throwing the glue cell against a wall, underground alien cities, a powerful magnet, a scalar coil charged with thousands of volts, or anything else i could think of.
1.1:
if 10 glue cells are connected together in series, THAN THEIR VOLTAGES STACK!
(imagine thousands of tiny glue cells connected together. to produce one huge output)
(i could DEFINITLY produce 500 watts and win the prize on this website, if i used enough metal. but i'm lazy. so i will let one of you win it.)
1.2:
if the copper and steel are EVER connected electrically, the cell will produce nothing.
(glue seems to conduct magnetism, but not electricity.)
(beware any substance that conducts electricity! many glues have metals in them!)
1.3:
the more metal you use, the higher the amperage. but voltage stays the same regardless of amount of metal.
(i think that the more metal used, the more protons/electrons you have spinning. there for you have more amperage.)
1.4:
if the glue hardens, the glue cell still works. just not as well.
(it also works if you press copper and steel against a chunk of dried glue.)
(glue is mostly carbon. so someone should try graphite)
1.5:
glue cells that are very old, still work. with no deterioration to the metals
(other than slight oxidization from air exposure. or from when the glue was still wet).
1.6:
i have been using 2 very large glue cells (lots of copper/steel), to power an LED light continuously for the past 5 months. the LED light has never flickered, and shows no signs of failing.
(i fully expect it to run for years.)
1.7:
water, rubbing alcohol, egg yolk, and any part of your skin, works in place of glue.
(for this reason, i think oxygen and/or carbon are responsible. because whatever is making it possible, is found in human skin!).
2:
the copper holds its energy in its protons. making the copper "positive".
the steel holds its energy in tis electrons. making the steel "negative".
2.1:
since the glue does not conduct electricity, both metals can "charge up" sepperatly. with shorting each other out other out magnetically. since both metals "charge up", with opposing polarities.
2.2:
since the glue conducts magnetism, these positive and negative energies can "interact" together, inside the glue. DC voltage and amperage are produces, from their interacting.
(similar to how energy is produced, from matter and anti-matter interacting, in a star trek warp core.)
2.3:
there is likely a diode effect between the copper and the steel. forcing the current to move in the direction of the steel. but the hell if i care, so long as it works.
3.1:
this glue cell is most likely to be powered, by "zero point energy". ZPE is energy produced from the spinning of protons and/or electrons.
3.2:
protons spin clockwise.
electrons spin counter-clockwise.
when these 2 spins collide, energy/electricity is produced. or something like that.
3.3:
the copper is dominated by its protons. so it has clockwise spin energy.
the iron in the steel is dominated by its electrons. so it has counter clockwise spin energy.
the glue is mostly carbon. carbon has much fewer parts than copper and iron. so any spin that it has, is overwealmed by the copper and iron.
*please do not attack/complain/moan/nitpick about this post, unless you can make a theory that works better than my theory*
picture:
all of these cells are from 6 months to 1 years old.
all of them still work.
all of these glue cells produce about half a volt (because they all dried).
the 6 penny-sized glue cells produce half a volt, just like the bigger glue cells. but the bigger glue cells produce more milliamps.
by the way.
to make the penny sized cells, do the following:
1: stick copper wire and steel wire on some duct tape. spaced one wire-width apart from each other.
(if the metals touch, then no electricity)
(the closer the metals are when the glue dries, the less voltage-loss when the glue dries)
2: drip elmer's school glue all over it.
(you can cut off excess glue later, to get at the terminals)
(the only other glue that worked, was wood glue. but elmer's school glue sticks to metals better than wood glue.)
3: when one layer of glue dries, add another layer. until the glue is as thick as you want.
4: after the top is thick enough, turn the cell over, and apply glue to the bottom. until the bottom is as thick as you want.
the more glue, the sturdier the cell is. and the better the connection.
an easy way to connect many cells in series, is to loop the end of the wire, and connect the copper loop of one cell, with the steel loop of another cell (for some reason, only the glued part of the metals must be electrically sepperated.)
if you want to solder the loops together, than solder the loops, and THEN apply the glue. so that the heat from the soldering doesn't destroy the glues bond.
I'll try it tomorrow.
Have you tried "Hot Glue" the kind you squirt out of a heated gunlike thing?
And how do you get glue out of your nice pink carpet?
someone else can try hot glue. i'm on a "very limited budget". i'm also "very lazy".
i don't see glue as the best solution anyway. i only use it because i havn't found better so far.
in the long run, i want a material which can withstand greater energy/abuse than school glue. something that can pass hundreds of watts. without melting, cracking, or chemically breaking down.
the carpet is white. either the flash from the camera, something the flash reflected off of, or both, gave the carpet a light purple tint in that picture.
that room is dedicated as my work room. i don't care if get gets glue on it. dried glue and battle damage will only give the room "character".
This sounded like a simple enough experiment, so I had to give it a try.
Here are the results of my attempt:
I used a three inch length of solid copper and steel wire.
Placing the wires directly into a small bottle of Elmers glue, I got 1 volt.
(I'm not sure how to measure how many amps it is capable of. Any suggestions would be appreciated)
I then tried placing the wires into tap water and got about .87 volt
Next I tried hot glue and got no voltage at all, I suspect it is because there is no moisture in hot glue.
I was surprised to see the glue produce more volts than tap water. I think you are on to something here.
HL
You have a fertile mind nitinnun...your 'lazy' take on things is refreshingly humerous also.
I felt motivated to try another medium...so by poking a 2 1/2 inch leaf from a dismantled transformer and a 5 inch solid copper house type wire into a 1/2 bucket of reversible hydro colloid (jell), with a small amount of water added to keep the material moist over time.
The electrodes are above the water.
At first it registered .39 vdc which began climbing at a slowing rate to .58 vdc after 10 minutes.
Regards...
Quote from: HLEV on July 11, 2008, 04:15:30 PM
(I'm not sure how to measure how many amps it is capable of. Any suggestions would be appreciated)
I*R=E
(I*R)/R=E/R
I=E/R
Amps=Volts/Ohms
1. Find a resistor.
2. Measure its resistance in ohms.
3. Connect this resistor to the exposed wire ends.
4. Measure the voltage drop across the resistor.
5. Divide by the resistor value.
I use a one ohm resistor, to eliminate the calculation step, and just read amps right from the same voltmeter I used to measure voltage.
I'll have to try this. If it works...
By the way, could you post a picture of the LED setup? I'd like to see it, especially what size the cells are.
Quote from: HLEV on July 11, 2008, 04:15:30 PM
(I'm not sure how to measure how many amps it is capable of. Any suggestions would be appreciated)
Most multimeters have a switch/dial that you can set to amps. If you look at nitinnun's picture, his has a dial on it.
my multimeter can read amperage. can't yours?
the cheapest/easiest copper, is a roll of "copper foil" from the hardware store. i can get several feet of it for $28.
it can be cut or bent however your little free-energy heart desires.
the elements doing the conducting, is either hydrogen, oxygen, carbon, or all 3.
water molecules have one oxygen and 2 hydrogen.
glue is one carbon and 2 hydrogen, connected together into long chains.
when the glue hardens, some but not all of the hydrogen is lost. leaving mostly carbon and some trapped hydrogen. though i suspect that some oxygen also gets trapped in the glue.
next week my 1 pound bottle of powdered graphite will arrive. it is 95% carbon.
graphite is an electrical conductor. so it will likely short out the reaction, causing insta-failure.
if that happens, i will bake some graphite at 500F in the oven, then rapidly cool it down. to revert the graphite to broken carbon, and maybe crystalize/oxidize it too.
if i can be sure that the graphite fails because it is carbon, than that means that hydrogen or oxygen is the cause!
Quote from: Kabuto on July 11, 2008, 06:11:26 PM
Most multimeters have a switch/dial that you can set to amps. If you look at nitinnun's picture, his has a dial on it.
Quote from: nitinnun on July 11, 2008, 06:14:27 PM
my multimeter can read amperage. can't yours?
I generally avoid using my MM-amp feature since that one time I had to replace the fuse. The operating range seems a bit too limited for my liking.
In this case, however, I expect the amperage to be tiny. I would risk a fuse on it.
Such a glue cell is still just a chemical galvanical battery cell.
The moisture( left H2O ) inside the dried glue still converts
the metal into ions so the metals are consumed.
So watch the metals beeing consumed.
But it is nice to play with these types of cells
as they could light LEDs if you put a few in series,
but they will only give off some small milliamps,
so you are able to light an LED.
they are connected in series, powering an LED. the large amount of metal produces enough amperage to make the LED light.
i have named them "big daddy", "flathead", and "the new guy".
big daddy and flathead have crappy wood glue as their blood and guts (it hasn't hardened after half a year, because air cannot get too its moist core). the new guy has wet elmer's glue.
hartiberlin.
have you observed this "ionization" yourself?
or are you talking about something that the illuminati-fatcat-oppressors told you?
mainstream science has been so corrupted by those liars, that NONE of it can be trusted. ESPECIALLY it energy/electricity is involved in any way!
i'm going to dissect big daddy and flathead for possible corrosion. they have served their purpose now anyway.
Well, yes, I had played with simular cells
and these are just galvanic effects.
Probably your copper is already a bit oxidized.
Also your LED is very low brightness, so I guess
it draws much less than 1 mA only, so the metals
last very long...
Regards, Stefan.
Quote from: nitinnun on July 11, 2008, 06:45:05 PM
hartiberlin.
have you observed this "ionization" yourself?
or are you talking about something that the illuminati-fatcat-oppressors told you?
mainstream science has been so corrupted by those liars, that NONE of it can be trusted. ESPECIALLY it energy/electricity is involved in any way!
i'm going to dissect big daddy and flathead for possible corrosion. they have served their purpose now anyway.
I'm pretty sure the ionization is part of the reaction in a galvanic cell, but, for all we know, your cell works differently.
but you do not "know" what is going on.
you are assuming that what you were told, is true.
thinking that you know, is not the same as knowing.
the light is dim, because of the flash from the bulb. it is much much brighter, in real life.
the 3 cells in that picture produced about 2 milli-amps. less than 1 milliamp isn't even enough to light the LED.
but that is 2 milli-amps, "in series". series only stacks voltage.
it was not parallel. parallel stacks amperage.
that LED had been powered for about 4 or 5 months. it will be awhile before the autopsy results are ready.
i looked into "galvanization" online.
as far as i can tell, "galvanization" is a junk term, which lacks explanation or meaning.
the mainstream science schema of galvanization, is doing one or more of the following:
1:
it is applying an inaccurate label, to whatever is REALLY happening.
sort of like saying that a duck is a pig.
(a pig is not a duck, and a duck is not a pig.)
or saying that an oak tree a strawberry plant.
(the oak tree is big, tough, and produces no fruit. the strawberry plant is small, fragile, and produces red fruits.)
or saying that the pacific ocean the shallow end of the kitty pool.
(the pacific ocean is deep. the pacific ocean is not the shallow end, of a bigger, deeper body of water)
2:
it knows that there is more going on, but is lying about it. because the lie suits the interests of big energy.
(big energy was likely holding a gun to the head, of whoever came up with mainstream "galvanization".)
3:
someone saw something fancy, and they rushed out a bullshit explanation for it. so that they could attach their name to their "discovery", and wallow in the shallow amount of glory/fame that their "discovery" brought to them.
sort of like the jackasses who came up with the "elements" at the bottom of the periodic table. the elements which require vast amounts of energy to put together, and only exist for a fraction of a second before falling apart under their own weight..
4:
they honestly don't know what the hell they are talking about.
yet insist that they do know what the hell they are talking about.
the possibilities in my glue cell, are more valuable than groveling before mainstream science.
mainstream science does not reward those who sacrifice themselves too it.
i just remembered.
pure bismuth provides more voltage/amperage than copper. because bismuth is more "positive" than copper. because bismuth has more protons than copper.
lead or tungsten would most likely work better than iron. because lead and tungsten are more "negative" than iron. because lead and tungsten have more electrons than iron.
once again. i am "very broke" and "very lazy". so one of you can test it.
i took apart big daddy and flathead.
the copper had its very thin layer of varnish (non-copper) ripped off. the metal under it was completely normal. accept for a thin green strip, where the surface of the glue used to be (oxygen in the air caued corrosion).
the iron had a very thin layer of blackness, where ever the glue touched it. this happens whenever i stick iron in water. so it isn't specific to "galvanization!!!!!1!1".
Well,
galvanisation is called the process to put a metal coating
onto another surface.
With the cells we have a galvanic reaction,
where pure metal is converted into ions through
chemical reactions, so the metal is consumed.
Well the only real answer to see how the metal is
consumed would be to weight them before and after the experiment
with a mikrogram resolution...
Drawing just only 2 mA will make the metal last very long.
A green coating on the copper is where the red copper metal
has been converted into ions, so copper was used up.
And surely iron oxid gives a black layer, so you used
up some of these 2 metals...
Regards, Stefan.
you are still "dismissing" my glue cell as "galvanization".
dismissal is not science. lots of the garbage in the mainstream isn't "science" either.
look at my picture. i washed off the glue.
the rest of the crud flaked off easily, when it dried.
accept for that one small area that i scraped off, to show how thin the crud layer was.
*
if the "galvanization" happens through the glue, than why is only the glue-surface part of the copper green? when the rest pf the copper is unaltered?
*
very little of the metal is altered.
if "galvanization" produced 2 volts at 2 milli-amps for 5 months, than how did it run, on so little altered metal?!?!
if i got that much electricity from that little metal, than why aren't we powering ourselves through "galvanic" electricity?
we could just collect the metal atoms once they are free (from a special atom catching encasement), reforge the atoms in a solar powered smelter, and consume the metals all over again.
*
before you said that the dry sells still worked, because there was still water/oxygen/whatever trapped in the dried glue.
even if that were true, than how is water/oxygen/whatever "galvanizing" a metal which it is not in contact with?!?!?!
even if the "trapped water/oxygen" was in magnetic contact with the metals VIE the dried glue, than how would that be enough to cause "galvanization"?
*
when i place both metals on my skin, i get voltage and amperage.
my skin is completely dry. how is the water trapped in my skin, causing the "galvanization"?
*
amperage increases, depending on the width of the glue, which is connecting the 2 metals.
NOT depending on how much glue is touching metal.
there are 2 flats sheets of metal, lying on cardboard.
if there is a quarter worth of glue sitting on each metal,
both connected by 1 square centimeter of glue,
than there is not much amperage.
if there is a quarter worth of glue sitting on each metal,
both connected by a dime worth of glue,
than there is more amperage.
if there is a quarter worth of glue sitting on each metal,
both connected by a quarter worth of glue,
than there is a lot more amperage.
a finger sized connection of glue alone,
produces more amperage,
than 2 hand sized bodies of glue,
which are connected by 1 square centimeter of glue!!!!!!
the finger sized connection of glue, is superior to the 2 hand sized bodies of glue!!!!!
if "galvanization" were the cause, than why would "more glue sitting on metal", fail to produce ANY additional amperage?
why would there have to be "more glue connecting the metals together", to provide more amperage?
Quote from: nitinnun on July 13, 2008, 01:32:52 AM
very little of the metal is altered.
if "galvanization" produced 2 volts at 2 milli-amps for 5 months, than how did it run, on so little altered metal?!?!
if i got that much electricity from that little metal, than why aren't we powering ourselves through "galvanic" electricity?
That's a good question. If galvanization reactions could do this, why don't we use them for powering simple devices? I doubt the average flashlight is even on for 5 months total.
that reminds me. i did another experiment months ago.
i made a body of glue which was 1 centimeter deep, one centimeter wide, and at least 12 inches long.
then i stuck copper in one end of it, and steel in the other end.
the amperage fell down to almost nothing. but the voltage was the same, as if the metals were close together.
and as usual, the voltage goes from zero to full, the moment even the lightest part of the metals are connected together.
if this were a water/oxygen/whatever based reaction, than why does amount of water/oxygen touching metal surface area, not matter?
why is the same voltage always produced, the moment one single atom of the metal, touches glue?
it's because the reaction is not chemical based. it is energy based. the energy field of one metal, touching the energy field of the other metal!
it is caused by the opposite polarities of energy, in the positive copper and the negative steel!
just out of interest, have you connected the pots in parallel to see if the amp increases?
yes. the amperage did increase, when connected in parallel.
if one of you did this test, than i have no doubt that the cell would work for years. even if running an LED the whole time.
Hi nitinnun,
if you can make a stack out of a few cells,
that contineously put out around 2.7 Volts at 10mA
without dropping this power level over time,
please let us know.
At this about 20 to 30 milliWatts
level modern bright white LEDs emitt pretty bright light.
If you could scale this up to the 1 Watt contineous output level,
this would be even better.
How many cells and big would they have tobe
would you need for 1 Watts contineous output ?
Many thanks.
Regards, Stefan.
yesterday i did another test:
i stuck copper and steel, into a cup of graphite powder (95% carbon. it's the finest type of coal).
i got a very small amount of voltage and amperage (5 millivolts at 0.05 milli-amps).
this shows that almost pure carbon, works in place of glue.
(even in this uncompressed powder form. which is NOT optimal, for electrical/magnetic conductance!)
it also shows that "galvanization from water", is NOT the source of the electrical output! because there is no water, in the graphite powder!
after this, i did another test:
i poured some water into the graphite. so that it was 50% water, 50% graphite powder.
the voltage was about 0.5 volts. ar about 2 milli-amps..
in a normal glue cell of equal amount of metal, it is about 1 volt at 1 milliamp.
so in the carbon/water cell, the voltage was half as much, but the amperage was twice as much!
if "galvanization through water" is the cause for the electricity, than why does 95% carbon powder effect the voltage to amperage ratio?
why then, is the output changing, when carbon dust is added???
Hi nitinnun,
Indeed, it can not be galvanic, as follows:
2mA is 2 mC/s
multiplied by 3600s/hr that is 7.2C/hr
multiplied by 24hrs/day that is 172.8C/day
multiplied by 30days/month that is 5184C/month
multiplied by 6months (that?s to be round; correct to 5 or whatever you wish) that is 31104 Coulomb.
Now, as the 'bad electricity' teaches us, 1C = 6.24E+18 electrons
and from the 'not so bad chemistry', 1C = 1.036xNAx1E-05, where NA is Avogadro?s number,
which further results that if oxidation/reduction reaction is using one electron per atom, it would need 0.322 mole of Copper. That would be roughly 26.46grams of copper consumed. Obviously, there is no sign of this amount being consumed so we have an issue!!! (Hereby ?consumed? means merely changing its oxidation state; felt to write it down for clarity and for avoiding any confusion)
Hence, in order to solve the big issue we have, I?ll further apply few typical science trickeries:
1. It is known that Cu/Fe have multiple oxidation states, so I?ll simply assume that whatever chemical reaction is taking place between glue and metals, it requires 3 electrons per atom of metal. Hence, the battery shall consume not 26.46grams but 6.82 grams of Cu.
2. I?ll also take the sneak advantage because you lack an ammeter and assume, which is in agreement with my best knowledge and experience, that the LED is not consuming 2mA (not a chance at that brightness) but .2mA. And the metals consumed are thus reduced to .682grams.
3. I was very gentle at 2) above, because a LED will give off comparable light starting at 20microA or less, which would imply that only .06grams of metals were actually needed.
Otherwise, I fully agree that it?s clearly not galvanic and I can?t wait to see the 2mA current as well as see me disproved by the large version of the battery (that putting out 20mA or more, up to 1W as it was already suggested). Truly, when this happens and non-galvanic issue is better clarified, you?ll have in your hands one of the greatest (and valuable) discovery of our times. Can?t wait to prove me how wrong I was in this very post!
Best regards,
Tinu
I think this page explains what is going on with the copper:
http://imet.csus.edu/imet1/antares/folio/Teaching_Units/echem/echem.htm (http://imet.csus.edu/imet1/antares/folio/Teaching_Units/echem/echem.htm)
if this information is wrong then you definitely have something.
you've asked me to do it. so now i have an excuse to do it.
i'm going to string together a few dozzen new glue cells, and post the results. but it may take a few days.
in the past, i hooked up several glue cells in series, to produce about 7 or 8 volts. so i know that what you want, can be done.
but the designs of most of the cells that were used, were inefficient for stacking in series. (because the metals were too far apart from each other)
today i came up with a new design that should stack more efficiently in series. i'll mass produce it, once i work out the construction details.
by the way. the LED used in that picture, used up about 1.2 milli-amps, before it would even light itself. the rest of the amperage amperage, was for the brightness.
the flash on the camera hid about 75% of the glow that the LED did have.
everyone knows that it is harder to see the flame on a candle, if the candle is in the middle of a grassy field, on a bright summer day........
if you looked at the LED in person, than you would have said that the LED had a medium glow.
when i added a third glue cell, the LED burned like the fires of hell.
when i added a 4th or 5th glue cell, the LED burnt out, and never worked again. and i had to replace it.
i just made another discovery:
if the glue in the cell is pressurized, the amperage increases by about 4 times!
so if an unpressurized glue cell produces 1 volt at 1 milli-amp, a pressurized cell produces 1 volt at about 4 milli-amps.
to pressurize, i cut the top off the elmer's glue bottle.
then i stick the copper/steel in.
then i poured guerilla glue into the bottle, on top of the glue.
i pour enough guerilla glue to seal up the top, but not enough to displace much elmer's glue.
the guerilla glue puffs up when it dries. it seals the elmer's glue in the bottle, and pressurizes the elmer's glue at the same time.
guerilla glue produces no voltage/amperage. either because of additional chemicals/metals in it, because of how it was processed, or both.
but guerilla glue is extremely strong, and expands in the glues water. so it both seals and pressurizes.
if the pressurization is speeding up the "galvanization", by exciting its chemical reaction, than why is only amperage increased?
why is voltage EXACTLY THE SAME?
and why does voltage very, depending on the metals used?
why does pure bismuth produce more voltage and amperage, than copper?
and why does aluminum produce drasticly less voltage and amperage, than steel?
and on top of that, why does "galvanized steel" produce more voltage and amperage, than iron nails?
Here is the standard Mil Spec galvanic series for metals.The more noble a metal is, the less subject to galvanic reaction. Any two metals placed in a conductive electrolyte and connected in a circuit will produce a voltage due to ion exchange between the metals. The further apart the metals are on the table, the higher the voltage produced and the faster the corrosion process. The less noble metal is converted to ion salts deposited on the more noble metal and is gradually corroded away.
Originally published August 1997
Listed below is the latest galvanic table from MIL-STD-889. I have numbered the materials for future discussion of characteristics. However, for any combination of dissimilar metals, the metal with the lower number will act as an anode and will corrode preferentially.
The table is the galvanic series of metals in sea water from Army Missile Command Report RS-TR-67-11, "Practical Galvanic Series."
The Galvanic Table
Active (Anodic)
1. Magnesium
2. Mg alloy AZ-31B
3. Mg alloy HK-31A
4. Zinc (hot-dip, die cast, or plated)
5. Beryllium (hot pressed)
6. Al 7072 clad on 7075
7. Al 2014-T3
8. Al 1160-H14
9. Al 7079-T6
10. Cadmium (plated)
11. Uranium
12. Al 218 (die cast)
13. Al 5052-0
14. Al 5052-H12
15. Al 5456-0, H353
16. Al 5052-H32
17. Al 1100-0
18. Al 3003-H25
19. Al 6061-T6
20. Al A360 (die cast)
21. Al 7075-T6
22. Al 6061-0
23. Indium
24. Al 2014-0
25. Al 2024-T4
26. Al 5052-H16
27. Tin (plated)
28. Stainless steel 430 (active)
29. Lead
30. Steel 1010
31. Iron (cast)
32. Stainless steel 410 (active)
33. Copper (plated, cast, or wrought)
34. Nickel (plated)
35. Chromium (Plated)
36. Tantalum
37. AM350 (active)
38. Stainless steel 310 (active)
39. Stainless steel 301 (active)
40. Stainless steel 304 (active)
41. Stainless steel 430 (active)
42. Stainless steel 410 (active)
43. Stainless steel 17-7PH (active)
44. Tungsten
45. Niobium (columbium) 1% Zr
46. Brass, Yellow, 268
47. Uranium 8% Mo.
48. Brass, Naval, 464
49. Yellow Brass
50. Muntz Metal 280
51. Brass (plated)
52. Nickel-silver (18% Ni)
53. Stainless steel 316L (active)
54. Bronze 220
55. Copper 110
56. Red Brass
57. Stainless steel 347 (active)
58. Molybdenum, Commercial pure
59. Copper-nickel 715
60. Admiralty brass
61. Stainless steel 202 (active)
62. Bronze, Phosphor 534 (B-1)
63. Monel 400
64. Stainless steel 201 (active)
65. Carpenter 20 (active)
66. Stainless steel 321 (active)
67. Stainless steel 316 (active)
68. Stainless steel 309 (active)
69. Stainless steel 17-7PH (passive)
70. Silicone Bronze 655
71. Stainless steel 304 (passive)
72. Stainless steel 301 (passive)
73. Stainless steel 321 (passive)
74. Stainless steel 201 (passive)
75. Stainless steel 286 (passive)
76. Stainless steel 316L (passive)
77. AM355 (active)
78. Stainless steel 202 (passive)
79. Carpenter 20 (passive)
80. AM355 (passive)
81. A286 (passive)
82. Titanium 5A1, 2.5 Sn
83. Titanium 13V, 11Cr, 3Al (annealed)
84. Titanium 6Al, 4V (solution treated and aged)
85. Titanium 6Al, 4V (anneal)
86. Titanium 8Mn
87. Titanium 13V, 11Cr 3Al (solution heat treated and aged)
88. Titanium 75A
89. AM350 (passive)
90. Silver
91. Gold
92. Graphite
End - Noble (Less Active, Cathodic)
Notes
AC43.13, starting at Par 247, briefly covers several types of corrosion and corrosion protection. The grouping of materials is an early method of MS33586 which was superseded in 1969 by MIL-S
I finally got around to building this last night. It's been at around a volt for the past 15 hours (the attached photo shows 0.922V), and neither of my multimeters want to read amps for some reason. Anyways, this is some more confirmation that it works.
Quote from: nitinnun on July 15, 2008, 06:19:04 PM
and why does aluminum produce drasticly less voltage and amperage, than steel?
Especially where Magnerazz's chart implies the opposite.
Quote from: Magnerazz on July 16, 2008, 11:59:09 AMAny two metals placed in a conductive electrolyte and connected in a circuit will produce a voltage due to ion exchange between the metals.
What about the cell with graphite? It worked, but I don't think graphite is an electrolyte.
The electrolyte is the medium your electrodes are immersed in, in this case Elmer's glue. It provides both a conductive path and reactive chemicals. The more noble electrode is the cathode, the less noble electrode is the anode. The anode and the chemicals in the electrolyte are eventually consumed in the reactive process that produces the electric current.
Quote from: Magnerazz on July 16, 2008, 02:40:37 PM
The electrolyte is the medium your electrodes are immersed in, in this case Elmer's glue. It provides both a conductive path and reactive chemicals. The more noble electrode is the cathode, the less noble electrode is the anode. The anode and the chemicals in the electrolyte are eventually consumed in the reactive process that produces the electric current.
But there was no glue; it was just graphite. As nitinnun said:
Quote from: nitinnun on July 15, 2008, 08:47:34 AM
i stuck copper and steel, into a cup of graphite powder (95% carbon. it's the finest type of coal).
i got a very small amount of voltage and amperage (5 millivolts at 0.05 milli-amps).
i tried to read resistance from the glue cell, with a multimeter.
it read no resistance. or continuity (there was no electrical connection!)
if there is no electrical conduction through the cell, than how is the "galvanization" working?
i hooked up a 9 volt battery, in series, to the glue cell.
the voltage of the battery stacked perfectly with the voltage of the glue cell.
that means that "magnetic conduction" works. even though "electrical conduction" does not work.
remember that a thin, 12 inch long body of glue, perfectly conducts the voltage between the 2 metals. even though amperage is lost.
by the way, kabuto. you got no amperage, because you hardly used any copper/steel.
the more copper/steel you use, the higher the amperage is.
and that the only glue that adds to amperage, is glue connecting both metals. glue which touches only 1 metal, does nothing.
i thought up a more constructive question.
why would zero point energy, "not" be present in my glue cell?
i think this:
the copper has 1 more proton than electron.
so the magnetic field of each copper atom, is positivley charged.
that this positive magnetic field spins clockwise, just like protons spin clockwise.
the iron in the steel has 1 more electron than proton.
so the magnetic field of each iron atom, is negatively charged.
that this negative magnetic field spins counter-clockwise. just like electrons spin counter-clockwise.
the glue (and other materials), perfectly conduct magnetism. but not electricity.
so the copper and steel can avoid discharging their magnetic fields on each other electrically,
yet their magnetic fields can still interact together magnetically, to create electricity.
why would my theory NOT be true, in this?
if "galvanization" is true or false, than why would what i just described NOT be happening?
Quote from: nitinnun on July 10, 2008, 11:56:09 PM
1:
if i stick COPPER (attached to positive multimeter lead)
and STEEL (attached to negative multimeter lead)
into a body of ELMER'S SCHOOL GLUE (neutral),
i will get almost a volt of DC electricity,
at a few milli-amps of current.
this effect seems to last forever.
nitinnum,
what is the steel you are using ?
This is very curious. You should not be getting anything like that voltage even if this WERE a galvanic reaction.
In a galvanic reaction between cu and steel or at least iron you would be getting 0.14vdc.
Even if this were zinc coated you would only see 0.7vdc.
If there were a bunch of magnesium in it there could be almost a volt. There are some crazy alloys out there but...
So, I am asking you to say what kind of steel this is.btw
I have a piece of steel here and a pre-1982 US penny = 95%cu
with a salty wet paper towel between them I get 0.194V DC but with Elmers glue I only get 0.02 VDC.
And using the same penny and a wet cloth wrapped zinc coated bolt I see 0.695VDC across it.
Am I supposed to make a really thick bead? then let it dry a bit? ( I am asking while the glue dries.)
OK 2 questions
curious,
jeanna
Just out of curiosity I tried this today with a jar of "Modge Podge" which is similar to simple white glue. I used a short length of #12 copper wire for one side and an exterior galvanized deck screw for the other. On the DC scale the voltage climbed to a maximum of 1.04 VDC. The current was in the 300 to 500 uA range. As noted, there is infinite resistance between the poles.
I also tried a container of waterless hand cleaner which also worked but not as well. Definitely a strange phenomenon.
i use steel wire from the hardware store.
odds are that the steel wire is zinc coated, like you say. because ordinary iron nails didn't work nearly as well as this steel wire.
elmer's school glue works better than water, rubbing alcohol, ETC.
but the elmer's school glue works best, when it is still wet.
if the glue dries, than the voltage is drops to about 0.5 volts, and the amperage drops to almost nothing.
but otherwise it seems to continue working indefinitely, once dried.
if the 2 metals are too far apart when the glue dries, than it won't work at all. the metals have to be close together, in dry glue.
i could get a lot of voltage and amperage, by connecting many cells together, in a combination of series and parallel.
i could also make it last for a very long time. by sealing the glue so that it never dries, preventing the performance drop.
but if i did so, would it be of any use to anyone?
would it even impress any of you? making you want to understand the physics that make it possible?
Quote from: nitinnun on July 17, 2008, 07:16:02 PM
i could get a lot of voltage and amperage, by connecting many cells together, in a combination of series and parallel.
i could also make it last for a very long time. by sealing the glue so that it never dries, preventing the performance drop.
but if i did so, would it be of any use to anyone?
would it even impress any of you? making you want to understand the physics that make it possible?
I think you can answer your own questions by presenting the results of the ganged arrangement. I, for one, would be interested.
Quote from: nitinnun on July 17, 2008, 07:16:02 PM
i could also make it last for a very long time. by sealing the glue so that it never dries, preventing the performance drop.
would it even impress any of you?
making you want to understand the physics that make it possible?
1- You are getting about .2vdc more than you should be getting. At least that is how it looks from here.
I just dipped a galvanized steel wire and a copper wire into the elmers school glue and then I compared the same wires -well different pieces off the same spools of wires- and used the salted wet towel between them and the voltage across these 2 wires is 0.2 volts
less. So, I think you have found something here.
AND if it continues for ever - or 6 months - it is really cool. A 3 volt lithium 2032 button battery won't fire up a LED left on constantly for more than 1 month (with 47 ohm resistor even). So, I think this is something.
2- Impress anyone? who cares? life is too interesting to waste my time trying to impress anyone.
3- learning how things work is my personal MO so, yeah.
@Tinu, thank you for the analysis. It makes this even more exciting/interesting to have numbers like those you provided.
just my take
thank you,
jeanna
Awesome thread! I just HAD to go and give this a shot. I used a copper penny and a zinc plated washer, the only white glue I had was a bottle of contractors Probond "premium polymer glue" I read the fine print...yep made by Elmers, I then hooked up the test leads and instantly the meter read 0.95V!!
I then tried a stainless steel bolt and the zinc washer...worked WAY better! The meter jumped up to 1.22V !!! (almost as much voltage as a nickel cad battery 1.25V)
I have it so just the edge of the bolt is almost touching the edge of the washer with the glue in between. I couldn't measure the current, my fuse is blown in the meter.
Could make a nice compact battery just by stacking the stainless and zinc plated washers in a sealed plastic tube then the glue wouldn't dry out.
Would love to make a hundred of these cells (122 volts) then short out the leads and see what kind of a spark you'd get!!! ;D
Thanks for sharing nitinnun!!
i wanted to make a 1 watt display, by doing the following:
1: cut the top off a bottle of elmers glue ($1 a bottle these days.)
2: stick in as much copper and steel as i could, without the metals touching (hole punch the metals, zip tie them together, but space them apart with one zip tie attached onto the first zip tie)
3: put gerilla glue into the top, to seal in the elmers glue (gerilla glue swells up because of the water in the elmers glue. this both seals in the elmers glue, and pressurizes it to make it a better conductor for amperage.)
4: connect however many of these it takes, in a combination of series and parallel, to produce 1 watt.
the large bandwidth of metals and glue, should allow for the passing of that much magnetism (the electricity is passed magnetically through the glue. even though the glue itself is non-conductive!).
one day i will do the above. i already have about 12 bottles of elmer's glue. i just need to bend enough steel wire into plates, to put in each glue bottle.
How about a 1 inch stainless steal jar /container and a copper rod with a plastic top on it.. Sorta like this...
(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg293.imageshack.us%2Fimg293%2F4497%2F31772205fz8.png&hash=7f40757e240f095f6fca0a8da786daef6645a875)
Kinda like a battery..LOL positive on top and the neg on the bottom.. I can see it.
Edit -- Sorry about the picture quality.. Paint.. FTW!
the more metal connected by glue, the more amperage.
i'm only using the elmers glue cell, because it is easy to seal the top with guerilla glue.
i can also stuff metal into the bottle, like a borrito.
the most efficient shape would be 2 flat plates with glue in the middle. but the glue needs to be sealed.
Hey Nit,
I just had a brainstorm.....why not make a battery out of a battery? ;D
I don't know if it work or not but what if you had an old car battery that you took the acid out of and filled it with glue?
Quote from: noonespecial on July 19, 2008, 06:55:59 AM
Hey Nit,
I just had a brainstorm.....why not make a battery out of a battery? ;D
I don't know if it work or not but what if you had an old car battery that you took the acid out of and filled it with glue?
I think it defeats the purpose.. The volts and amp are pretty much constant.. No matter the size.. I believe..
the more metals sitting in the glue, the higher the amperage.
i think this is because more metal = more atoms = more proton torsion and electron torsion interacting to produce electricity.
voltage is always the same.
Quote from: noonespecial on July 19, 2008, 06:55:59 AM
Hey Nit,
I just had a brainstorm.....why not make a battery out of a battery? ;D
I don't know if it work or not but what if you had an old car battery that you took the acid out of and filled it with glue?
I was going to try this with some AA-sized tubes, but I ended up using a pill container instead.
the simplest way, is to cut the top off a bottle of elmer's, and shove as much metal as you can inside.
i anchor the metals together using zip ties. these same zip ties space them apart.
i'm still working on my little project. i came up with a new way to "arrange" the metals. which will be made out of bent copper and steel 14 gauge wires.
Quote from: noonespecial on July 19, 2008, 06:55:59 AM
Hey Nit,
I just had a brainstorm.....why not make a battery out of a battery? ;D
I don't know if it work or not but what if you had an old car battery that you took the acid out of and filled it with glue?
noonespecial
At first I thought it would not work .... as I understand it ALL the plates in a lead acid battery are lead .
Stuff is added to the lead to make the plates posative or negative .
I have no idea if the stuff they add will work with glue .
If it is an old battery it is probably sulfated .......the question then is how the sulfite crystals fit into the process .
If this is a different kind of reaction then the only way to learn what works is to try it .
I would give it a try if I had an old battery ..........
gary
on this site
http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/
Chapter 13 page 2 there is a device that may be in the Thestatika machine
It is layers of plastic copper and aluminum .
I think it is call an electron cascade device .
Could the glue in the cells here be replacing the plastic ?
If so ...... applying a magnetic field could be very interesting .
gary
Quote from: resonanceman on July 21, 2008, 01:13:16 PM
on this site
http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/
Chapter 13 page 2 there is a device that may be in the Thestatika machine
It is layers of plastic copper and aluminum .
I think it is call an electron cascade device .
Could the glue in the cells here be replacing the plastic ?
If so ...... applying a magnetic field could be very interesting .
gary
They could be related. It also mentions that a magnet field would help with voltage; this could be important (I'll see what I can try later).
Quote from: Kabuto on July 25, 2008, 06:18:08 PM
They could be related. It also mentions that a magnet field would help with voltage; this could be important (I'll see what I can try later).
I am going to play with the idea a little too .
I am not sure the best way to test it with my cell .
I added glue to an old coil that I made for a different experment
The original readings were .6V
1.3 mA after being hooked up for about 5 min .
Both reading are with the coil wet .
With glue
.6 V
2.8 mA after being hooked up at least 5 min .
my meter read 23. mA at first when I hooked it up ....but it drops quickly
WIth water the current read highest at first and then tapered off in a similar way .......but I didn't record the high readings . I know it was no where near 23 mA I think it was more like 5 or 6 mA
gary
Edit
The picture was taken before I bought more glue .... the coil is fully covered now
for some reason, the multimeter discharges the amperage, but not the voltage.
if you read voltage with the multimeter, than voltage stays unchanged.
if you read amperage, amperage drops like a stone.
BUT, if you then check voltage again, voltage has also dropped! voltage then quickly goes back up.
i think that the multimeter tests amperage, by applying resistance. and this resistance somehow discharges the power.
voltage is not tested with resistance. so voltage is unaffected.
to be sure of amperage, you must power an LED light or something.
the true amperage cannot be known with a multimeter, for the above reasons.
you may only have an idea of the true amperage.
i finally completed it.
8 large glue cells. 4 in series, 5 in parallel. one connecting together both chains.
they put out 3.5 volts, at 4 milli-amps.
(8.5 milli-amps, if only the 5 in parallel are measured. the amperage didn't stack as efficiently as i wanted, due to the excessive space between the metals, in each cell.)
that huge LED light, is rated for 3.8 volts max, at 20 milli-amps.
i expect it to run forever. or at least until the glue deteriorates too much, to conduct enough "energy".
by the way. i think that my pyramid runs on similar energy physics, to the glue cell. but the current of the pyramids magnetic field, makes the positive peak energy travel through air, to mix with the negative base energy. making glue unneccessary.
anymore news?