Quote from: Super God on June 18, 2008, 12:44:11 PM
Man, in practice, at least for me, running a ground wire to the plugs that are deep inside the cylinder heads is a pain in the ass.  I hope my supplies come in quick, want to see if you can run both grounds (coil and inverter) through the body and save a connection there.  Electrically, wouldn't it be the same?  I don't know.  I need to test that.  Capacitor70 and Bear, thanks a ton for your schematics and valuable information and experiments.  Now it's time for me to play catch up and get some results.  I hate being left behind   Haha!

Super God   

Be very careful  with this ........ a mistake could  very easly be fatal

I would  think that all  the  sparkplug  grounds could  be  relocated to  one  common  spot  on the engine . 

I  would  be very careful to  keep the inverter   insulated  from the  body


If   you   make a washer  from a loop  on the end  of the wire    as s1r9  suggested   it  should be  relatively  easy to  connect  the  wires


gary

The drawing I posted was a real quick rough draft to illustrate the main concept relating to the existing ignition system. It works some what like a Tesla coil but with an Avramenko plug for each spark plug. Basicaly, single wire transmission with a DC converter/rectifier at the plug.

Quote from Wikipedia...

"Tesla coil is an early predecessor of the "ignition coil" in the ignition system. Tesla also gained U.S. Patent 609,250 , "Electrical Igniter for Gas Engines", on August 16, 1898. It used the principles of the ignition coil used today in automobiles. A. Atwater Kent, in 1921, patented the modern form of the ignition coil."

 

Quote from Frolov...

"Any motion of charges is electric current by definition. The electric potential field can also move the electric charges and this work of the potential field is not connected with loss of power. So, it is enough to use the electrical field (scalar potential source) to create the power and work in an electric load circuit."

 

For this to work I will need two isolated circuits both using the same chassis/ground. One Battery for the ignition and one for the rest of the car. A little creative wiring should do the trick. Also our chassis/ground can be considered as one wire or earth and has the ability to have two separate signals used in the same wire much like internet access over power lines.



Avramenko replications...

http://jnaudin.free.fr/html/afep01.htm
http://www.alternativkanalen.com/s-wire.htm
http://67.76.235.52/DrStiffler/Xenons.asp

Tesla Coil Replications....

Too many too list. Just google Tesla Coil.

One final note about the ignition coil not being able to handle an inverter. In a traditional circuit it would fail eventually but this is not a traditional circuit which uses very little current input to the primary, the secondary has no current, and the load does not affect the primary at all. My tests have confirmed this.

capacitor70,

I have built this circuit and it is very close to yours I used 2 555 timers one for the HV for flyback transformer and
I am getting almost 1" long sparks sereaming it looks very cool. Now I constructed another circuit with a transformer
backwards and got a bridge rectifier hookedd to it just like in your diagram now if I hook up all the diodes and the CAP mine is 400v 470uf but should be good for testing I have found 2 things. The HV circuit works great and great spark on the sparkplug. Curcuit 2 works great charging the cap in very little time and I can discharge it and BOOM! now I connect this all together to complete the circuit, when the spark goes across the spark gap the circuit shorts and the cap discharges well I am not getting a spark when the CAP is in place and I have no clue as to why. As I said both circuit 1 HV and circuit 2LV Cap charger work great seperatly but not when I connect them together I have checked everything all connections and all seems good. when it is all conected together the cap does charge and the flyback rings loudly but no spark I checked all connections and I don't see any leakage anywhere. all I need to do is disconnect the cap and bam spark again! 

Any Iedas!

Thanks,

22vision

22vision,

Coil Based Circuit:
  In coil based circuit polarity is very important, Normally Coil generates -Ve high voltage and engine body acts as +ve,
This is main reson, check the polarity by putting 1N4007 10 diodes in series on HV wire if diodes are reverse bias it will not produce spark,
If it is -ve, Swap primary connections,
see this link http://www.dansmc.com/bat_coil_ign.htm, very little information is given on net.

"If you reverse the low tension ignition coil connections it will reverse the polarity. It takes 40 % or so more voltage to fire the spark plugs on a ignition system with positive polarity. On most bikes you would have to really work at it to do this. However, some four cylinder bikes like the early Honda fours are designed this way with double ended ignition coils. One lead is positive and one lead is negative. This means two of the plugs will require a lot more voltage to fire than the other two. Not much you can do about it, but if two plugs start fouling out on these bikes, this might be the reason. To test polarity put a pencil lead between the high tension lead and the spark plug. If there is a flare from the pencil to the spark plug, the polarity is correct. If the flare is between the lead wire and the pencil the polarity is wrong. "

  Diodes are very important, you can use 1N4007 on coil side, coil current does not go beyond 1Amps so it works fine use 7-10 Diodes in series.
For Capacitor use 6A10, or high current diodes, block at least 7Kv.
 
  Check the diodes, diodes may get damaged.

Capacitor Based circuit (Voltage multiplier):
   This circuit does not produce very high voltage, some times it does not spark. So don't use it.
----------------------

Here is simple inverter circuit, tested I am using IRF Z55 MOSFET,
mosfet runs cool, no heating is observed I have given 40Watt continuous load for testing
it is now fitted on my bike, due to polarity problem Spark plug connections are pending.
I am using 5Amps Transformer R2=10K VR1=0 C2=104 (0.1uF) it gives around 700Hz output frequency, for fast charging .

Componets used :
16 6A4 diodes
8 1N4007 diodes
5Amps 12-0-12 Xmer for inverter
Cap 330uF 400V
Rectifier Diodes 6A4

I am usine a flyback transformer out of an old 21" monitor. I understand the polarity issues
and I have trsted that and all seems good I also tested my diode's and all seem good. the circuit
is just like your coil schematic the only difference is that I have a 470uf 400v cap in there. I am usinf 555 timers
to pulse it. Now when I turn it on it hums both transformers, the cap charges but no spark on the plug
if I take the + wire off the cap the spark plug starts to spark nery nicely. Seems like I am explaining what is going on again but I am just trying to clarify. The circuit works great but no spark then the cap is in there. and again I tested all the components.

I did notice one thing the fluback transformer has a primary and a secondary like a regular transformer it is not one but like it anyhow the ignition coil you are using has 2 leads and a ground I cannot hook it up as I have 2 wires on pri and 2 wires on sec not like you have the ignition coil in your scama...

I will go over and check everything again the 5th time hehe but I really don't get it the cap seems to be choking the circuit out, I could try a smaller cap and see what happens! or just get an ignition coil but a flyback should work no prob (I get 1" spark nice blue" without the cap")

Thanks for the help!

22vision