tishatang:

Maybe I was not clear on this but the signal looks like this all the time.  What changes, and you can't see them in the photo but you can in the video, is a whole bunch of spikes..tiny thin vertical lines that go go beyond the screen (bottom and top) and appear all the way from the left to the right.  it is hard to explain in words but they are sort of super imposed over the main single wave that you see in the photos.  There may be  like 5 to 10 of these spikes going on at one time.  They appear for an instant and are gone.  They appear to be totally random, at least I have not been able to determine a pattern.

Also, that waveform is barely a stable one.  It takes a lot of fine tuning with the controls to stabilize it and, once stabilized, it may begin to drift off the screen very slowly from either the left or the right.

Since I am not doing such a hot job here using words to try to explain this, perhaps I can use mspaint and attempt to draw in the spike lines as I see them in real time.  As I said, they do appear in the video but, even there, they are hard to see as they come and go so fast.  As I said, I am of the thinking that this is what allows me to charge a 2.7v  B-cap to 2.5 volts or more even though my EER's output measures no higher than around 1.9 volts at 19 mA's.  When that cap has 2.5 volts it also has lots of amps too. (650 Farad cap)  This is where I found that supercaps store these spikes a lot more efficiently than any battery.

Bill

I tried playing with some photo controls and you can sort of see one of the spikes just above the bulge near the center of the wave.  This is a small one.  There appears to be a mixture of large and small spikes when you see this in real time.

Bill

Bill
OK, I know what you are saying.  You have this all the time.  This is not radio interference which would be stable and not drift.  Plus, the spikes would be in millivolts, not over a volt.

If I had to guess, the spikes are lightning strikes.  Maybe the mass of your metal is collecting over a wide area and sensing lightning from a long distance?   The question is why are your signals so different from freepow's?   Other than more mass, another difference is the long runs of 21 feet.  The long leads can act like antenna.  Maybe it defies logic and does gather voltage over a volt.  I think Tesla has a patent that shows a spark gap being fired by an antenna, ground and cap setup.  I might have it somewhere, will look.  You could try and use coax shielded cable as leads.  Ground the outer coax shield and see if any changes?

I will have to think more about this.
Chris

@tishatang and freepow and Bill,

Quote from: tishatang on November 25, 2009, 05:36:51 AM
@Bill
400 leds.  That's amazing!   Had no idea.   I am in my own little world here in China.  No access to youtube or googlevideo.  So many threads I don't read because always relating to latest video.  Can't do any experiments anyway.

I used the led as an indicator when you approach resonance.  I could have said load, but you would have no visual unless you used a voltmeter at output.  What I have been doing is try to put myself in Stubblefields place.  How did he do what he did with what he had to work with in the 1880's and 90's.

It's good to know there is a backup if none of my ideas work.  400 leds keeps the lights on if the grid goes down.  Good Work!

@Freepow
I don't know why nothing either.  Maybe it's because the small turns are not big enough inductor to get resonance at your local frequencies?  It will help for me to see a diagram of what you did and what are the freqs shown on your scope.  Knowing the freqs will give me an idea of what size inductor to use.  It could be a regular transformer would work here instead of the homemade quickie.  Although the transformer should be buried to get closer to what Stubblefield did.  Thanks for trying.
Chris
I agree with you that Pirate should post a link here to the latest 400 led schematic.

I think whats going on is a miss match of the coils to the varicaps V frequencies being tapped.

If freepow used a small varicap, (tuner) out of a transistor radio, then it will be setup for higher frequencies.

I think we need to make a physically large tuner device, I will put my thinking cap on again and think a bit more.

I have a picture of 2 vertical wooden slats, about 6inches long, and 3 inches high.
Every 1/16 inch is saw slots cut into the wood sides about 1/8 inch deep.
Every 2nd slot has a fixed steel thin plate, which is fixed/glued to the sides.
Every middle slot has a number of thin steel sheets, which can be inserted or pulled out of the wooden sides.

This would make a great adjustable air capacitor to tune the EEE (Earth Electrical Energy).

@jeanna,
Can you think of any type of kitchen appliance that even remotely looks like a old radio tuner?

I will be hunting around the old scrap yard in Dalby tomorrow looking for old radios, I think I remember seeing one there a few months ago, lets hope its still there.

I found a few lengths of copper pipes at the local dump yesterday, so I will press them into service very soon.

To all, I had to tidy up a few rooms here, lol, (more to do) and  have had to do a few more things on my engine which has kept me away for a few days.

I will follow this thread in a few hours, gota go and pack da suitcase for the 100th time.

jim
 

  Hello All...

    I experimented with an EER made with  1x copper pipe 19.75 inch long driven into ground
    and  1x thin solid steel rod 19.75 inch long driven into ground,  I tried distances of  40 feet, 21 feet,
    10 feet,  3 feet,  2 inhes  between the + and -
    results were the best at around 20-21 feet with highest current mA's  Not sure why though !

    Also I have a small array of 7 EER cells connected in series and added 2 more to equal 9 total,
    I have been charging a  55 Farad 2.5v super cap for approx 18 hours and my super cap shows...
    4.02 Amps  at .657 volts DC, but when connected to DMM, the cap runs down in mA's quickly,
    how do you stop the mA's from running out of cap so quickly - because I would like to use it
    on my Joule-Thief

    Or is it better to leave the cap connected permanently to the EER array and connect the Joule Thief
    to the cap...meaning the EER will keep charging the cap while i'm using the cap in the Joule Thief ?

    Could someone point me in the right direction please