Quote from: lasersaber on May 28, 2010, 07:32:43 PM


I'm on the verge of a possible major breakthrough with the coil I made in my last YouTube videos.  I am testing it now and so far it seems to be working but it will take about a week of constant running before I know for sure.  I will keep you all posted.

Hi Lasersaber,
Please be more verbal with us.
It is very important that any breakthrough ideas should be expressed.
We all need to let ideas roll around in our heads.

And, as always, I hope you will tell us if something does NOT work. It is as important as when something does work.
Case in point...
Thank you for explaining the reason you switched from the aluminum wire.
I was thinking I would use it, and now I understand you found brittleness.

@everyone,
I also found brittleness with annealed iron.
I have many of the coils made with that. It became a little brittle and if I moved the electrodes around too much they broke, so since it gave me blisters and became brittle I switched to zinc coated iron.

I think the reason that a coil fails is that a piece of rust can bridge the gap to short it out.
I say this because when I used the "tube of cloth" method of wire separation it never has shorted, but when I used the "wind cloth around it" method, one coil did short and became un-usable.
With the tube, it was impossible for anything to slip around a wire.

---
and, my soft iron finally arrived yesterday.
I hope to complete my Lasersaber/stubblefield replication soon.

thank you,

jeanna

Thanks Bill 

@Jeanna
If you put a connection block the coils and secure it, then you wont have any more problems connecting to your coil.


@ IotaYodi

I am a little worried about a slight problem I can see some of us having down the road when we get our coils cranked up and running and I want to pass this directly by you personally as lucky you are the resident electrician.

So far, no-one has been able to get their coils functioning with a high volt or amp output, but this is going to change soon, I can feel it, what I am saying is people here are a bit lasy when it comes to precortions. I am no different, I go and touch a bare wire and I feel nothing from my stubblefield coil.

As you would be aware, electrical connections, wet soggy equipment and accidental finger contacts is a receipt for dissaster.
But my main query is, how to keep the secondary dry while the inner primary coils need to be damp?
You and I both know adding water to any electrical output or working device is plain idiotic, eventually we are going to see sparks flying, maybe I am wrong, I havent seen a stubblefield coil functioning as Nathan Stubblefield says it will.

I think Lasersaber is getting very close to the point of being able to produce a secondary output, mabye he got tingling fingers from touching live secondary connections ha ha.


I can see some of us getting burnt fingers and shocks if we are not casting a careful eye on these coils as they begin to work with resonable outputs.
If anyone eventually gets their stubblefield cell output production to be at 120 volts or 240 volts as in my case, then an accidental contact with a bare wire is going to be curtains, or give a mighty whack they will never forget.
These coils should be able to put out some heavy amps and voltages, but I am referring to the secondary only.

What I want to do to reduce the possibility of accidents is to limit any output to 48volts max but at say 45 amps, just enough to recharge a set of 4X12v gellcells which are curently hooked up to an UPS.

Then I got lights, and it will be a start in the right direction.


jim

Jim, you're point is well taken. I was hit by 220v 25 years ago and I still remember it like it happened yesterday. My mom got nailed by 25k volts when she was seven months pregnant with me. She still remembers the experience vividly, although I don't. Maybe that's why I'm so interested in all things electrical today.   

I don't think we'll be getting a lot of amps from our coils. High voltage, yes. But low amps.

According to the time period book I have on building standard induction coils, "the ratio of transformation is directly proportional to the number of turns of wire on the primary and secondary coils...if there are 10 turns of wire on the primary and 1000 turns of wire on the secondary coil there will be 100 times as high an electromotive force developed at the terminals of the secondary as that employed in energizing the primary coil, while of course the current or amperage will be proportionately reduced."

Now, of course, we're not dealing with a standard induction coil here, but the laws of transformation, I believe, are the same. Thus, using the above example, if our primaries produce 1 volt at 40mA, we can expect a potential of 100v @ .4mA from a single coil - still very usable. This doesn't take into consideration any "outside" forces like telluric currents or whatever. Also, since it will be high frequency, the possibilities are endless.

Just my thoughts.
Darryl

electric you...Are you saying that you already got 250 volts out of your stubblefield coil?...
Best Regards

QuoteBut my main query is, how to keep the secondary dry while the inner primary coils need to be damp?

Different ways of doing this depending on how you build the coil. Figure 4 of the patent shows the primary inserted into a larger wooden spool with an insulated Mica covering on the secondary. Holes in the wooden caps could be pre drilled on both ends, and water put in that way without removing the coil. You would probably have to hand build the secondary's spool which may be a little difficult.
If folks are going to wrap the secondary directly over the primary coil, I myself would use Mica to separate the two coils. The reasons I say that is I dont think you want any galvanic action on the secondary. Using just cotton between the two you would get galvanic action. Also from what Ive read about Mica is that it has inductive property's as well as an insulator. Whether Mica would help the coil to operate better I dont know but it wouldn't hurt. Once the secondary is wound then Mica or other insulator would go over top of that to insulate from shock. Holes still need to be drilled in the caps over the primary coil to insert water.
You may be able to use Liquid Tape which is used in underground splices and such to water proof them. You could paste it on the primary, let it dry then put electrical tape over that,then wind the secondary over that. That would seem to put a waterproof barrier between the two. 
Mica is cheap and comes in different shapes and forms. It can also be made into a slurry mix and brushed on. The only schemes I can think of at the moment.