Hi Scorch
I would think exact length of wire would be what you should do but turns will work too probably doesnt matter too much.
Dont have the bearings have any"outside" pressure on them - if the stator plates squeeze the bearing too tight, or at all, it really affects the performance...
spray a bit of carb leacner into those beaings and loosen up the grease...you should clean them out totally clean and relube with somethign hi tech - jsut a few drops...this might get your input down to 400ma each side...invest in some ceramic bearings if you can afford it - those things work amazing...
when you install the ferrite cores, try to make the back surface where the backing-magnets go be totally flat, (with some flat farily wid metal washers to stick magnets onto)  so that you can put the magnets in any position you want, and not be so that you  "have to" put the magnets directly behind the generator coil cores....
in the MOTOR coils, directly behind cores is definetly where you want to put backing magnets (this can really help like X3 rpms with no extra draw!)

BUT for the generator coils, not necessarily AT ALL should the backing magnets be "dictated" by the already-positioned  generator coils and their cores ...what I found is that you might want the backing magnet  be 5 or 10 or 20 mm to the left or right of the center of the generator coils core...and when you add addional backing magnets around the stator, the next one added influences where you just postitioned the previous one, so you have to go back wna reposition what just worked" again.... plus the STRENGTH too, (how high is the stack)  of  each of the backing-magnet posutions influences what you just accomplished too, so you need to have the machine running, with load to coils hooked up, then spend hours and hours trying all different strenghts and positions to the backing magnets...I call it the Howrad Johnson effect when you get some good speed up under a  loaded coils situation, since there is no logical pattern or preconceived way the magnets are going to look and be at, and  the backing mangets will look like the stonehendge ruins in how they are stacked and postioned when you reach that final straw...what will happen is the backing-magnets will dominate and overhwhelm the "standard" magnetic forces of the cores against the ROTOR magnets, and the lenz-lugging normal stuff will dissapear since the backing magnets have "taken over" the dynamics of it all (my lame brain theory as to why anyways)
glad you tried the backing magnets with the aircores - it "might" work but you wil have to really spend some time with it...coils should be loaded, and magnets strong enough to barely knock themselves abit on the rotor magnets probably...just go with the ferrite cores and have some fun

There is no side pressure.
And I have modified bearings in this way before, by cleaning them out and using a lighter lubricant, but I am of the opinion this requires a lot more maintenance because I have to make sure they stay lubricated as the oil is dispersed or becomes dirty. I am also of the opinion that the light grease, installed by the manufacture, actually serves the same purpose.
Yes, at first, the bearings are a little 'stiff', due to fresh grease, but the way this works is that the balls tend to displace most of the grease leaving only a light oil residue from the grease. And as time goes on, or the bearing starts to heat up, the grease melts and provides more light oil as needed.
And I can see this happening. These bearings always 'loosen up', over time, and become free as long as they are not rubber sealed bearings.

As it is; the rotor does spin easily and freely.
Is the saving of a couple tenths, of an amp, that critical?
I would think that, if yes, then there is not enough useful, surplus, power worth pursuing.

Yes; ferrite cores will be completely flush, on the back of the stator plate, and really looking forward to getting those built now that I have a plan and won't have to worry about coils falling off as I did with my first attempt.
And, rather than build a winding jig, with turn counter, and tediously wind them by hand, I think I will simply measure exact lengths of wire and wind them on the sewing machine again. Which works well and gets it done quickly.

And your theories are as good as any other.
I think in terms of attempting to use a spinning, magnetic, field to create a larger torsion field or a doughnut shaped torus with the goal of 'pulling' in additional energy, into the center of a vortex at the middle of the torus while, at the same time, there are many other 'mini' torus fields at work around, or in, the respective coils all the way down to the sub-atomic level. And the goal is to get them all working, in unison, with each other.
But there is a lot of 'stuff' around this device including the coils, hardware, imperfect windings, mismatched magnets, ferrite cores that are not absolutely, perfectly uniform, location, and alignment, with respect to the planet, etc, etc, etc.

So, GOOD LUCK, getting it all lined up, and 'tuned', properly without use of 'magic glasses' or elaborate test equipment to visualize all the spinning, magnetic, fields at work.
Some large but most operating at an atomic, electron, level that many, in the scientific field, have yet to discover. . .
And, when working properly, some of the outer fields probably look like some kind of misshaped 'star' with rounded points focusing in, or out, near each coil.

And, yes, 'fun' if you are into that sort of thing of attempting to 'tune' invisible, difficult to measure, forces that most, in science, label: "pseudo" (Greek for: False, Fraudulent, or Pretend)
Apparently the science is SO suppressed the SAME energy has MANY different names. But it's ALL the SAME, spiral, or torus, shaped stuff. . .

}:>

Quote from: konehead on January 29, 2013, 02:21:22 AM
Hi Scorch
I would think exact length of wire would be what you should do but turns will work too probably doesnt matter too much.
Dont have the bearings have any"outside" pressure on them - if the stator plates squeeze the bearing too tight, or at all, it really affects the performance...
spray a bit of carb leacner into those beaings and loosen up the grease...you should clean them out totally clean and relube with somethign hi tech - jsut a few drops...this might get your input down to 400ma each side...invest in some ceramic bearings if you can afford it - those things work amazing...
when you install the ferrite cores, try to make the back surface where the backing-magnets go be totally flat, (with some flat farily wid metal washers to stick magnets onto)  so that you can put the magnets in any position you want, and not be so that you  "have to" put the magnets directly behind the generator coil cores....
in the MOTOR coils, directly behind cores is definetly where you want to put backing magnets (this can really help like X3 rpms with no extra draw!)

BUT for the generator coils, not necessarily AT ALL should the backing magnets be "dictated" by the already-positioned  generator coils and their cores ...what I found is that you might want the backing magnet  be 5 or 10 or 20 mm to the left or right of the center of the generator coils core...and when you add addional backing magnets around the stator, the next one added influences where you just postitioned the previous one, so you have to go back wna reposition what just worked" again.... plus the STRENGTH too, (how high is the stack)  of  each of the backing-magnet posutions influences what you just accomplished too, so you need to have the machine running, with load to coils hooked up, then spend hours and hours trying all different strenghts and positions to the backing magnets...I call it the Howrad Johnson effect when you get some good speed up under a  loaded coils situation, since there is no logical pattern or preconceived way the magnets are going to look and be at, and  the backing mangets will look like the stonehendge ruins in how they are stacked and postioned when you reach that final straw...what will happen is the backing-magnets will dominate and overhwhelm the "standard" magnetic forces of the cores against the ROTOR magnets, and the lenz-lugging normal stuff will dissapear since the backing magnets have "taken over" the dynamics of it all (my lame brain theory as to why anyways)
glad you tried the backing magnets with the aircores - it "might" work but you wil have to really spend some time with it...coils should be loaded, and magnets strong enough to barely knock themselves abit on the rotor magnets probably...just go with the ferrite cores and have some fun

Preliminary testing of the system as it is, with just air cores and SSG driver, looks really good mechanically but it's clear this will need to be a more advanced build if I am to obtain anything near the desired output.

One experiment, I tried, was to simply replace the nylon screws in favor of steel screws.
The difference is clear. Using cores, and back magnets, results in a significant increase of generator output.

And because the holes in my current stator plate are too big for my cores, and the plates are too thick for the cores to reach the back, I am going to build new stator plates from 1/4" thick, 10" diameter, polycarbonate disks. Which do flex just a little bit but I am hoping they will stiffen up with the mounting bolts, and washers, in place.
Polycarbonate is very strong stuff but 1/4" is only half the thickness of the previous acrylic.
If these new plates are not rigid enough; I will have to either find longer ferrite cores or simply counter-sink the coils, with a forstner bit, into thicker plates. Which I do have on hand.

Have also decided that since the SSG is better suited for BEMF recovery versus producing useable torque; it just isn't going to be acceptable therefore a better controller is called for.
Also plan to wind a new set of coils.

So it may be a while before I have anything new to show.

That is all for now.

}:>

I just produced another, more detailed, video of the current experiment.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7Fb-ZQxeg0

This is still a work in progress. Not sure how far I might get with air core coils.
And already working on another build to be more like RomeroUK's version.

Just need time, and motivation, to get it done.

}:>

Congrats!

Very nice clip in good quality. I am very keen to see more from your work and wish a positive progress.
Hope this helps to support your motivation.

Best regards, cubalibre