Jeanna:

Great work!!!  Is it not amazing that that small magnesium block gives the best volts when coupled to the carbon/graphite material?  When you said north and south did you probe and find the best volts which should be alligned with the meridian in your area and not magnetic north?  And, correct me if I am wrong, but way back in the thread where some folks were saying "galvanic reaction" I tested two similar (same) metals, copper and copper and I got some voltage, not much but it was there when alinged on the meridian.  If you took two copper pipes and put them in salt water or any other electrolite there would be NO voltage...correct?  This is what spurred me on to continue because that told me something else is happening here.  And Jeanna, your best results are with a pencil (graphite) and a very small mag. block.  This is impressive.  Yes, I have this big carbon rod (which I need to sink deeper) but what would I get if I had a similar sized mag. rod??  This may not ever amount to anything but it amazes me that you can light a few leds for nothing.  I always think in scale and if you can light one, or two...then......?  My carbon rod is 100% pure and has no cladding.  It was about $20 and yes is used in the welding industry but not very much anymore so they had to order it.  Keep up your experiments Jeanna.

Artic Knight:

I can barely read the print on the small cap but it does say "22F"  That sounds way too huge for this size but, what do I know.  I have many others and some say 22000 uf which, if I read my book correctly really means 22,000 1/1000 of a fared which would be 22 farads also right??  I don't know why they do it this way.  All I know is my small cap STILL light not only one led but another flashing one as well.  It has not been connected to the earth cell in weeks.  The larger caps just really lit up the led for like 2 seconds and then, nothing.  More experiments to come.

Bill

Bill and all,

Here is the circuit that I made that lit the light with only the cap:

2 super caps soldered in series. each capacitor says 5.5V also  FS 0.047F. (?)
The resistor is 1,000 ohms

First I connect neg to neg and pos to pos cap to battery. I hold it there for 5 or 6 seconds.  This gives the juice to the capacitor.
Then I connect the pos side of the cap to the pos side of the led then the neg side of the led to the 1,000 ohm resistor, then the other end of that goes to the neg side of the cap.

The 1,000 ohms gives me about 30 seconds of good light and 2 to 12 more very dim. This will vary with leds. The one I used is green which if I remember, takes the least energy of the leds.

In my notes is a bunch of figuring with the conclusion that says "so, the place to add it is the capacitor... try 36,000 mF

Here are some of the more intelligable lines from those notes:

t=RC Now this aparantly means 1 time constant = 1 mega ohm times 1 microF.  or again:
1 sec=1M ohm*1uF

[ if I want 1 second at 15mA per second then I need 15mA. To get 15mA I need 9 Volts and 600 ohms. If 600 ohms gives me 1 second, then will 36,000 ohms give me 60 seconds? -- The  light won't work cuz 9/36,000=0.3mA -- So, the place to add it is in the capacitor- try 36,000]

I am afraid that is all there is. He didn't understand why I wanted to do this. He thought I should be happy to plug it in, I think   In away I am glad he wasn't so interested in my projects cuz I had to do the figuring myself.


So, this little circuit I did doesn't amount to much but it is the reason I know there is promise to what you did.

I may (I had better) clear off some space () and solder up another circuit to be like this one you made and see what happens with some different voltages and see if I can get it to work the way you have. I just ordered a variety of parts that may fill in what I need from my little electronics box of goodies.

fun
Is there anyone else in this group that wants to duplicate Bills circuit too?

jeanna

@Bill i have a idea that might work since you are able to light multiple led's, if you have a chance see if you can find a disposable camera you dont really care about or if you can find one from the local drug store they usually keep the chassis they take the film out of for garbage so they will commonly give you a few if you ask.. or at least in my dealings . this circuit runs off of 1.5 v and is a great boost transformer.  It steps the battery juice up from 1.5 v to up wards of 300 to fill a cap then the circuit lights its neon so you know its charged, this may be a simple one to see if we can get to work with your 1.7 to 1.8 v readings just clip the leads on plus and minus terminals where the battery would have been and your there, hold the charge and see what happens, probably best to diss assemble the thing and take a live meter reading off of the capicator inside it but be real careful if it charges it will arc weld a skrew driver. http://web.instructables.com/id/Disposable-camera-coilgun/ is a simple coil gun but it shows the camera flash board nicley.  Just a thought and if anyone else has at least a volt and a half or so i would recommend trying
                                                                                                                                    Joe

Quote from: Pirate88179 on December 20, 2007, 09:27:16 PM
Is it not amazing that that small magnesium block gives the best volts when coupled to the carbon/graphite material? 

When you said north and south did you probe and find the best volts which should be alligned with the meridian in your area and not magnetic north? 

Bill

yes magnesium and carbon thats the ticket.

The question of N S is curious. I would have to pound the rod into the ground then check then take it out then pound it in another place. I sort of checked the alignment. It is something I will do with the mag carbon combo since they are the easiest to move around. Here on the west coast the declination is about 18 degrees east. It is a lot. This question is worth answering. Patrick Flanagan proved that it is the magnetic field that affects the pyramid. but we may be working with something else here. underground currents may relate to different influences from what we are used to.

jeanna

@ Jeanna:

Actually...no.  Joe taught me from the very begining of this thread that, once you place one electrode in the ground you can "probe" around with the second one and move it to whatever allignment works best.  That is what I did.  If you are using the mag. block then I would position your + electrode (carbon/graphite) wherever you want and then push the mag. block part way into the earth and take a reading...and so on and so forth.  That is what I did and it is funny that I am about 3 degrees off of magnetic north and that just happens to be the declination for this area. (I know this from my time flying airplanes here, I still have the charts)  This is facinating about your using multiple caps.  I would not know how to do so but your description will now allow me to give it a go. I am impressed with your experimentaion Jeanna, keep up your efforts.  Is it not amazing that there is ANY voltage at all?  and Free???

@ Joe:

I think I have a few of those cameras lying around here as we speak.  I would have never thought of that.  I enjoy tearing things apart so, I will get started. My only question is, by design, the cap or caps in the camera are meant to charge up and....dump.  Will we need resistor/s in line to slow this down?  Every other cap I have here does what Jeanna said caps should do.  Charge up and.....dump!  I am seriously considering buying another shake light to destroy just to get the cap out of it.  Then I can wire it like Jeanna did and maybe get more storage.  But hey, if I try it and it does not work, at least I got to take something else apart. Ha ha.

Bill