@vince,

are you running your power thruogh the load, before or after the short?  i think that the experiment is to short the circuit back to the motor not to a load, at this point. i may be reading this wrong so feel free to disagree,  however i think to get the acceleration you should just short the circuit.

lol
sam


ps: havn't you got 2.7 amps before and after the power to run your lamp?  and you did mention the 3.2 volts,  so are we talking 2.7 amps times 3.2 volts?  it seems to me to be 8.64 watts of power!!! surely i am missing something here, so please fill me in.

Quote from: jacksatan on March 02, 2008, 10:25:21 PM

Thane - I recognize that you can gett a significant increase in voltage, but what we are all looking for is an increase in "useful energy". After reading the report from Kinectrix, and gaining a greater appreciation of the difficulties of verifying the power output of your device, I am all the more convinced that the easiest and most visually simplifying method of verification is mechanical. The device that you have is not easily represented in the standard form of x volts y amps for z time. Using a mechanical measure for the power output will allow you to easily distill all the variables into a simple yes/no factor of the two fundamental questions 1) "Is this more efficient at doing useful work?" and 2) "Is there sufficient useful output to 'close the loop'".  At this point, I am not the only one asking this simple question, it seems PolarBreeze has the same request - it seems reasonable.

I wish you the same as Zahn did... Good Luck

The fact Thanes coils are slowing the wheel down when shorted in test 1 shows that they are using energy. (the best way to find out how much is either with a bifilar coil to sample the flux (for voltage and a hall effect probe or clamp meter for current) or a fractional ohm resistor to give voltage and current)
Mechanical measurement of energy makes no sense I'm afraid.

First we have the problem that not everyone agrees how to measure mechanical energy, in fact the SEAS power people would not accept kinetic FE devices because they believed that the conventional formulas are out by an order of magnitude!

But the best reason is that his generator IS using mechanical energy, it may be helping the motor and maybe the motor it's self has a positive effect on the generator but one thing is for sure, the motor would turn faster and use less power with no generator attached.
It is simply faster than shorted without a magnetic path to the motor.

Even with the coils open regardless of the magnetic path to the motor the generator has many losses which load the motor such as hysteresis (magnetic drag) or eddy currents (electrical induction in the core).

Indeed since even without coils there is electrical induction in the cores (termed eddy currents) and this creates back-emf which speeds up the motor before coil shorting, just realized why his machine speeds up before shorting and I doubt it's the Neo's!

This isn't ready for people wanting undoubted Free Energy now, it is however ready for people who want to do their own research, to shout 'Eureka' with the help of Thanes most valuable principle.
If Thane was hoping to show overunity with this model he would not have chosen to run the motor he runs at the speed he does, this is to Demo a FE effect not to be a FE device. (Thane, sure you would agree I but don't want to put words in your mouth)

Just to clear up what I am doing!

Motor input has a clamp on meter on one line which shows 2.7 amps no matter what I do.
Out put coils have been shorted out ( all 6 of them ) and do not seem to affect the RPM or the input current to the motor.

Light was used to show that the coils are producing 3.2 volts, ( measured with a meter at each coil)
Motor does not slow down at all when fully loaded with the 6 coils.

I will be trying this setup with different coils (perhaps some heavy wire) to see if there is any effect.
The other variable is the magnet strength may be too weak for the effect??

Regards
Vince

Hi All ...KneeDeep

I only just noticed this thread. The experiments you are doing with "Thanes motor" seem to be trying to achieve a condition
that I dealt with in 2001.

Very recently, I did a small write up for some "adams motor" beginners (in another overunity.com forum thread) and posted some additional information into a website aimed at helping enthusiasts to attain a basic grasp of pulse motors in general.

On page 8 and page 10 of my site, I dealt with the phenomena of acceleration due to coil loading. But at the end on page 10
I deliberately left my conclusions regarding the reason for this phenomena open, until a time when others might be studying this phenomena independently, and come up with their own conclusions.

Without me tainting their (your) opinions, I might learn something more myself. LOL 

Visit this link below. Then check out specifically pages 8 and 10 as it relates to the subject of acceleration due to coil loading.

    http://www.totallyamped.net/adams/

Cheers all......KneeDeep 

@Aether22 Re the point you made about the magnetic lines not coupling with all the turns on the pickup coil, that is true it is called coupling coeficient in the transformer industry. Many AC welders deliberately make it poor to save on having a seperate inductance to limit current. If you spread the turns out over the length of the coil and only use the pickup coil for metering the voltage drop due to poor coupling will be minimal, poor coupling manifiests itself as a high impedance rather than reduced voltage. Also re your problem of getting a disk and bearings, one way around that, drill a hole in your disk to suit the grinder shaft approximately in the centre and mount it on the grinder directly using the wheel flanges. bolt the grinder down and start it. Assuming the imbalance is not too bad carefully bring the old grinding wheel in contact with the steel disk, and hold it firm while gently feeding it in, keep moving it to even the wear out. It should take about 10 minutes to remove 2mm of imbalance. Wear safety glasses and hearing protection and stand to one side of the disk in case it comes off. If the imbalance is too bad then rotate it by hand while holding a texta near the rim to mark the high spots, remove them with an angle grinder, repeat until satisfactory.

If you decide to mount it seperate on bearings can you describe what you need, my garage is full of junk some of which which may do what you need, and if it only weighs a couple of kilo I dont mind posting from Aus.


@vince, check your motor is not a shaded pole type, these are commonly used for HVAC fans, also Thanes motor was loaded and current limited to give high slip, I suspect your motor is running at close to rated speed ie at low slip