@Joe,

When you first started talking about the make/break, I thought that a distributor from a v8 might work (the old point kind). 8 make/breaks per revolution. There'd have to be some metal work done to get the thing to spin, but I recon if it's designed for easy 3k revolutions a minute, it would mean 3k times 8 make/breaks or 400 cps. At 5k it would be 666 cps. I don't know how fast you planned on performing the make break.

Working back the other way, for 60 cps (HZ), the thing only need to turn 450 rpm, so you get 8 make/breaks per revolution, so 8 times 450 = 3600 make/breaks a minute divided by 60 seconds.

Quote from: epiphany on March 26, 2008, 07:12:42 PM
@Joe,

When you first started talking about the make/break, I thought that a distributor from a v8 might work (the old point kind). 8 make/breaks per revolution. There'd have to be some metal work done to get the thing to spin, but I recon if it's designed for easy 3k revolutions a minute, it would mean 3k times 8 make/breaks or 400 cps. At 5k it would be 666 cps. I don't know how fast you planned on performing the make break.

Working back the other way, for 60 cps (HZ), the thing only need to turn 450 rpm, so you get 8 make/breaks per revolution, so 8 times 450 = 3600 make/breaks a minute divided by 60 seconds.

My vote is for a passive meaning self powered from small battery motor with disc on its end segmented with copper in the normal fashion for make and breaks.Ã,  The battery on the motor plays no part and has no connection other than to the motor and a poteiometer to vary its speed or whatever is novel for a speed controller.Ã,  That way the ac output is tunable so to say. A relay can be powered off the device itself or built in so theres the best i can say . We want it variable in my eyes to test stuff out first, find the optimum freq of the timing circuit for production in the secondary and diff lengths on the secondary. This all comes after the build tho so dont be too concerned with it untill your at the point where youve put all the wire into your primary you can.
Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,  Ã,   Joe

@chad

I dont think so but you never know at this point stick to the description i gave in the summary and your gaurenteed results as we have.

Joe

Thanks  for   the  link for  your condensed   version  of the  work so far


I  have been planning    and getting  ready  for  testing  some theorys for a  few  months now .

I  have been working on ways to test my theorys  with out  spending tons of money on equipment  and  stuff .

The  basic  earth  battery  primary  may  be a good  " foundation "  to start  from . 


I have a few  questions

I read in the   condensed  version and  somewhere else that   bigger  diamiter wire is  better.

Has there been  any   results  here that show if this is true?



About  coil  geomitry
From what I have seen on this  thread  it looks like   most of the  primarys  are long and skinny .......  usually 2 layers.

I remember  reading   about  Stubbfields   coils  as being  described as flowepot  sized , to me that implies it is  close to flowerpot  shape  ......to me that  means  almost  as  wide as it is tall . 

Anyone  here know  if    a short  stubby  coil  makes  a stronger or weaker  magnetic  field  than  a long skinny  coil?

The  stronger   the  magnetic field  my primary makes   the more likely  it will work  with my  other theorys.


Any other  observations  or  ideas about  how to  make a  the  primary  a stronger electromagnet ?   


thanks


gary   

Quote from: epiphany on March 26, 2008, 07:12:42 PM
@Joe,

When you first started talking about the make/break, I thought that a distributor from a v8 might work (the old point kind). 8 make/breaks per revolution. There'd have to be some metal work done to get the thing to spin, but I recon if it's designed for easy 3k revolutions a minute, it would mean 3k times 8 make/breaks or 400 cps. At 5k it would be 666 cps. I don't know how fast you planned on performing the make break.

Working back the other way, for 60 cps (HZ), the thing only need to turn 450 rpm, so you get 8 make/breaks per revolution, so 8 times 450 = 3600 make/breaks a minute divided by 60 seconds.

epiphany






I  think  Joe  was  thinking   of  something  more on the  lines of  buzzer type make   or break .

On the other hand   a rotory  version  with a variable  motor  would  be a  great way to  check out  how it  works  at many  different frequencys

The  main  problem I see with  using an automotive   distributor is that it is  built  for  high  voltages .    The  rotor  doesn't actually  touch  the  contacts as it passes them. 

For  low voltage   the  rotor would have to be modified  with some kind of spring like  contact that  extended  just slightly  above the  normal  surface  of the rotor  contact .

The  material  that came to mind   for the  contact   is  a piece of bronze  door weather stripping .

gary

Edit   
After thinking about it  ...... if you are  using a fairly powerful motor and you  don't mind a little noise.
It  might  be possable  to carefully  twist  the  trailing  side of the  rotor contact  up just a little .
By just a little  I mean  if you can see that it is  twisted  you  probably went to far .     

@ one:

There have been  several photos of NS earth batteries posted here...I could not even begin to tell you what pages to look at, those batteries were much longer than they were wide.  To me they kind of looked to be about the size of a 2" OD pvc pipe and about 18" long.  Stubblefield had many of these batteries in wooden boxes in one of the pictures.

I am still a fan of the rotary make/break (self-contained) device controlled by a pot as Joe has described.  Easier, cheaper, and much more flexibility in speed control.

Bill