Hi Zon,

Very interesting circuit you have, thanks for showing it. 

Could you ask you friend why is it important to use different diameter wires for the trigger and power coils?

I think the circuit can only prove it is producing OU if you continuosly monitor the voltage level across the battery for a long long period of time.  And long periode should mean even some weeks, not some days. This is one way to make sure you are not tricked by the battery effect Groundloop mentioned earlier http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,4223.msg85436.html#msg85436

Another way to get rid of the battery effect is to use a very high value capacitor instead of the battery, have a look at supercap, goldcap, ultracap by google. See prices here for instance, out of many choices: http://www.banzaieffects.com/Goldcaps-c-462.html   If you could place such a high value capacitor say either a 0.22F or a 0.47F in parallel with the battery and several minutes later you remove the battery (which also showed a steady slow increase in voltage) and see the voltage also across the supercap which way it changes,  you could receive a much better info on possible extra output from your circuit.  It is a good idea to charge up the supercap first from a separate battery to around 1.2 - 1.3V and connect it then in parallel to the battery which runs your circuit.

(Make sure that during the day or week long tests the dry battery inside your multimeter is in a good condition because it affects accuracy of your meter when it starts depleting...)

If you wish to further minimize circuit inherent losses, I advise using germanium or schottky diodes instead of the 1N4148 diodes (which by the way very very good diodes here but have a forward voltage drop of 0.6 - 0.7V what you simply have to sacrifice).
Though germanium diodes are rare nowadays if you could get some 1N34s or OA160 OA161 or similar diodes (they have 0.1 - 0.2V forward drop only)   or schottky diodes like 1N5817 (0.3V forward drop) or BAT46 or 48 (drop of 0.3 - 0.4V).  These are not a "must buy" components,  only give some further improvements in fight against losses.
The transistor 2N2222 is a good type with low saturation collector emitter voltage.

Keep up good work!

rgds,  Gyula

@Zon,

Always run your circuit for a long time before reporting o/u.
See my simple drawing on how batteries behave when discharged.

I have replicated your circuit. I run the circuit from a depleted NiMeh battery.
It runs well and the battery is slowly climbing in voltage. I will let it run until I can
determine if this is real charge or just the battery playing tricks on me.

[EDIT] I did a test. Disconnected the L3 coil. Battery fell rapidly from 0.576 Volt down to 0.570 Volt.
                           Connected L3 again. Battery is climbing back towards 0.576 Volt again.
                           Hmmmm................

          My circuit is like the Zon circuit but without the electrolytic capacitor. I also 100nF Ceramic
          capacitors instead of plastfilm capacitors.

Stay tuned.....

Groundloop.

Quote from: Groundloop on April 12, 2008, 09:15:55 AM

[EDIT] I did a test. Disconnected the L3 coil. Battery fell rapidly from 0.576 Volt down to 0.570 Volt.
                           Connected L3 again. Battery is climbing back towards 0.576 Volt again.
                           Hmmmm................

Hi Groundloop,

My present understanding on the role of the 3rd coil is that when the transistor switches off, the collapsing field in the toroid core induces a voltage in (all three) coils so the diodes can rectify it in the 3rd coil and from this respect the battery is the load for this rectified current.  If a DC current meter were inserted in series with the battery, it would show a reduced (or in case of real overunity) a zero or negative current consumption!  Of course it is difficult to insert a real DC current meter without disturbing the normal working of the oscillator but maybe somehow it can be matched.  Maybe a small 1 Ohm resistor shunted by capacitors and monitoring the voltage drop across it would be enough, with short wire leads to the meter.

On your note on the missing electrolytic cap: you mean the 100uF across the battery?  If so what happens when you do use one?

Thanks,  Gyula

@Gyulasun,

Yes, it is the electrolytic capacitor across the battery. I will solder in one and see what happens.

I have been running the circuit for some (4) hours now and the LED is going dim. The loaded battery voltage
has climbed to 0,580 Volt. Even if the battery voltage has climbed a bit the LED is going more dim indicating
less charge in the battery. So my circuit is not o/u as it is now. The higher battery voltage can be explained with a higher battery resistance due to deep discharge.

[EDIT] I see no difference in circuit behaviour with or without a electrolytic cap.

Groundloop.

Quote from: Groundloop on April 12, 2008, 02:01:57 PM
Even if the battery voltage has climbed a bit the LED is going more dim indicating
less charge in the battery. So my circuit is not o/u as it is now. The higher battery voltage can be explained with a higher battery resistance due to deep discharge.

Groundloop.

Groundloop,
this is unlogical.
It should then show less voltage as you can not measure at the internal resistor of the battery.
Or did you disconnect the circuit and did measure then the open circuit voltage ?
Thanks.
Regards, Stefan.