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[ramset]

Asset Maximization

Wattsup
You are a most trusted member and asset to this community.We have many other assets out there that are quite strapped financially but perfectly willing and able to contribute to these pages.

Just Take  Tinsel as one example,he Burns up personal resources for public gain all the time!
there are others here  stymied  so much by Lack of funds.they can't even start to help.

Perhaps a builders acc't with certain vendors?

Setting up a link to "fund" and a method to access the resources [anonymously if requiered ]would get a whole new set of skilled eyes and hands working on these projects.
Times are hard [very hard for some].
?
Thx
Chet
PS
Soundicek {paul} at Energetic has done this "fund raising" successfully with One project [ongoing].

[TinselKoala]

wattsup asked,

Regarding the circuit posted by @TK, why is the first 1N914 (left) the same model as the second that is also in series with a resistor and capacitor?

They are fast, small signal diodes within the parameters of the circuit. Also.... I have about a hundred of them and they aren't doing anyone any good sitting in a box, so I try to use them whenever possible.
But since tinman is using 1n4004 rectifiers I suppose I should too. I've just checked my diode stash and I have 3 left, along with some of 4002 and 4005 and 4007.
I have a few other diode types. I'm down to my last new MUR1560, but I have a handful of various fast diodes pulled from TV chassis, and some 1n5400, and one STTH8S06D from a TV. And a half dozen germaniums, 1n34a and 1n60.
My usual strategy in cases like this would be to put in a couple of candidate diodes and be able to select between them with a switch while the circuit is running.
I am running out of supplies, but I think I still have a handful of SPDT switches I can use. No room on that little scrap of circuit board though.... well, I'll see what I can manage.

@tinman..... I thought about opening a thread, but since it's your circuit I'd be happier if you opened the thread yourself, telling us your story and outlining what you'd like to see tested, etc. Don't be shy about your electronics chops... you've already demonstrated a high degree of competency and you should not worry at all about that stuff. We are all learning here -- at least those of us with open minds that aren't already so full that the ....er..... knowledge comes running out the earholes.  Some of what I  know I know is right, some other stuff I think I know is probably wrong, and there is a lot of stuff I have no clue about, and there is even bound to be stuff I don't even know that I don't know (thanks Rumsfeld).

[poynt99]

TK,

Would I assume correctly that you are driving tinman's circuit with a symmetrical bipolar signal (+/- 4v for eg.) from your FG?

If so, then it is quite understandable why or how you would achieve "zero current" at low currents and not at higher currents.

Remember that your meters are going to indicate what the average current is. So you could be driving amps at both polarities and still indicate "zero current", provided  the + and - currents are equal. At low current I suspect they are quite close in this circuit, but at a higher voltage output from the FG, the load it sees is imbalanced (per the schematic), therefore the current indicates some net value, albeit that value is most likely not representative of anything realistic.

With a 50 Ohm output, your FG could in fact be sourcing significant current to those LED's. I suspect it is much higher than 2.5mA at least.

[poynt99]

TK,

You and tinman may wish to try something like this.

[TinselKoala]

TK,

Would I assume correctly that you are driving tinman's circuit with a symmetrical bipolar signal (+/- 4v for eg.) from your FG?

Yes, that's right, just as Tinman is doing with his oscillator. I have also driven it with both positive only and negative only square waves (all of which should be translated into the "red/black" FG output terminology, to avoid confusion, as we found in another case using negative supplies from the FG.....) and sine and ramp signals as well.

If so, then it is quite understandable why or how you would achieve "zero current" at low currents and not at higher currents.

Remember that your meters are going to indicate what the average current is. So you could be driving amps at both polarities and still indicate "zero current", provided  the + and - currents are equal. At low current I suspect they are quite close in this circuit, but at a higher voltage output from the FG, the load it sees is imbalanced (per the schematic), therefore the current indicates some net value, albeit that value is most likely not representative of anything realistic.

Actually the response for me is the other way around; the readings are less symmetrical at low FG output amplitudes, but that might be due to my instrumental setup. I hope it's clear from the videos, both mine and TM's, that the settings that give the exact zeros are quite precise and need careful tuning of input power level and frequency.

My comment posted early yesterday  morning in reply to someone on the video page:

Thank you... I do know how to make accurate measurements.
The point of this demonstration is to reproduce Tinman's circuit and DMM readings. Did I give the impression that I thought the meter readings were accurate? If so I apologise.
They are averaging a pulse train that has positive and negative going components.... they _should_ read Zero all of the time if they are accurately averaging this pulse train.

With a 50 Ohm output, your FG could in fact be sourcing significant current to those LED's. I suspect it is much higher than 2.5mA at least.

Yes, that is right, and that is also why I've repeated the testing with 50R in series (Carbon resistors, 2x100R 2Watt in parallel) with the FG output, with the same brilliantly blinding results... but of course the F43 is capable of supplying 40V p-p.

Also, the F43 has an "isolation" switch that isolates the "black" output (the shield or ground of the BNC connector/cable) from the instrument's chassis and the line input ground. All the BNC connectors in the unit are isolated from the chassis anyway,  and I've moved the F43's signal isolation switch to the front panel, it was on the back along with the input voltage selector, kind of a pain to reach around for, but now.... I've probably voided my warranty by drilling a hole in my panel and putting a toggle switch there.   

Sorry I haven't gotten scoposcopy up yet... I am having motivational difficulties right now, plus I've discovered a bunch of Wallander episodes on YT, both the British ones with Branaugh and the Swedish ones with English subtitles. Very distracting, they require full attention for the best performance impact.

But I have done the scoposcopy, just not videoed it yet. The reason the meters read zero is clear. The reason the meters sometimes read differently from each other is because of subtle wave-shaping at certain freqs and input power settings..... I think.

The sheer brilliance of the LEDs is still astounding. I am quite sure they will not get this bright with straight DC without blowing out in a hurry. But I don't have a pile of them to waste, nor an accurate instrumental means of looking at absolute brightness levels. I have found good lux-meter setups using the Arduino but I don't have the necessary sensor, TSL235.

TK,

You and tinman may wish to try something like this.

Yes, that's right. In my case I can also vary the output offset, and/or use the positive-only or negative-only wave settings on the F43.

Tinman has said that he would rather that I started a thread on his circuit here, since he's involved elsewhere, but I can't figure out what category to put it in, and I'm not in any sense "leading" research on this item. Nor do I know just where TinMan is going with this ..... I think this circuit is just a preliminary build up to what he really wants to test, if I am guessing right.