Zero and Q device

[v8karlo]

Hi v8karlo. If no one posts an in-depth analysis with measurements of your 'zero device' soon,
I will see if I have the parts to build it and test in the next few weeks.
Just need to find some time. All is good. 

No problem.

For Europe 220V grid:

1. You don't need diodes UF4007, it can be any diodes you have from your spare. It is 50Hz (60Hz) so it doesen't matter if they are slow.
    I used UF4007 because I have 200pcs of them. (on higher frequencies it does matter)

2. C1, C2, C3 capacitors can be any but don't use less than 20uF and they have to be at least 200V rated. I used 3 x 640uF, 200V and it was fine (watch your fingers, do not touch them while and after device is working). Be careful, I didn't. It hurts. That is why I used 22uF, 400V later.

3. Transistor can be any bipolar. Can be mosfet too, tried it with IRF840, it worked without driver. Prefer bipolar rather for this situation.

4. For CZero you can use 2 electrolytic 300V minus to minus (100uF, 300V perfect). I tried it works. It becomes bipolar that way. Don't use less than 20uF, rated at least 300V.

5. I tried 75W bulbs. If I remember correctly they had around 70-80ohms and they worked, so you don't have to search for specific bulb. 2 bulbs of same    ratings. I also tried 50W. Just 2 of a same kind. The 75W output was glowing less than 25W but the effect was visible and heat was there. With bulbs with more resistance effect is more visible, of course. Resistance has role.



You don't need special parts, grab something from trash.

[citfta]

Sorry to inform you v8karlo, but you have only reinvented the voltage doubler circuit that has been used in televisions and industrial machines for over 50 years.  As you add capacitors you raise the voltage and drop the current.  And you are incorrect about being able to raise the voltage only a little when you add more caps to keep the current up. You have to raise the voltage an equivalent amount to keep the current up that you can draw from the circuit. And you clearly claim this is a free energy device on page 4 of your PDF and again on page 22.  And on page 15 you refer to self looping the device.  You can NOT self loop this device.  As soon as you remove the grid power your device will discharge the caps and quit.

The reason L1 does not light is because the voltage drop across L1 is very low.  All the caps and diodes are taking the voltage so there is none left to force enough current through L1 to light it up.  As you explained in your PDF when you use larger bulbs then L1 will start to glow.  That is because L2 is now large enough to let enough voltage through to start to light L1.  What your circuit does is force the voltage to L2 and not leave enough for L1.  But it is not free energy and can not be looped.

Respectfully,
Carroll

[v8karlo]

As you explained in your PDF when you use larger bulbs then L1 will start to glow.  That is because L2 is now large enough to let enough voltage through to start to light L1.  What your circuit does is force the voltage to L2 and not leave enough for L1.  But it is not free energy and can not be looped

When you use larger bulbs, more watts, L1 does not start to glow, L2 is glowing less. (which is logical also)
When you use only 2 caps, C1 and C2 but without C3 then L1 starts to glow, but L2 is still glowing more. You are multiplying current only 2 times with 2 caps, not 3 times like with 3 caps.

On L1 is 220V directly from grid, butt less current is passing trough L1. On L2 is 175V, but 3 times more current. That means on L1 is more voltage than on L2, but still no glow.
If on L1 220V is passing less current then on L2 175V that means that power through L1 is less than trough L2.
So you have more power on output than on input.

The reason L1 does not light is because the voltage drop across L1 is very low.  All the caps and diodes are taking the voltage so there is none left to force enough current through L1 to light it up. 

The bulbs are the same. Both should expirience same voltage drop.

If there is no force (power), that means there is not enough power at L1. So we are talking about power here.
Voltage on L1 is higher (220V) than on L2 (175V), but L1 does not glow. L1 is directly on 220V grid input.


As I said before, try it, build it, don't talk just by looking at scheme.
There is 5 components (from trash) and 2 bulbs. 1 hour project.


I don't wanna defend it. If you say so, then it is.

[Void]

Sorry to inform you v8karlo, but you have only reinvented the voltage doubler circuit that has been used in televisions and industrial machines for over 50 years.  As you add capacitors you raise the voltage and drop the current.  And you are incorrect about being able to raise the voltage only a little when you add more caps to keep the current up. You have to raise the voltage an equivalent amount to keep the current up that you can draw from the circuit. And you clearly claim this is a free energy device on page 4 of your PDF and again on page 22.  And on page 15 you refer to self looping the device.  You can NOT self loop this device.  As soon as you remove the grid power your device will discharge the caps and quit.

The reason L1 does not light is because the voltage drop across L1 is very low.  All the caps and diodes are taking the voltage so there is none left to force enough current through L1 to light it up.  As you explained in your PDF when you use larger bulbs then L1 will start to glow.  That is because L2 is now large enough to let enough voltage through to start to light L1.  What your circuit does is force the voltage to L2 and not leave enough for L1.  But it is not free energy and can not be looped.

Respectfully,
Carroll

Hi Carroll. Yes, that all sounds correct to me. C1, C2, C3, Czero, and L1 are forming a voltage divider.
The (average) voltage across L1 therefore is not high enough to light up L1, except maybe just a little bit,
even though current is flowing through the bulb to charge up the capacitors. 

Warning to potential experimenters:
Build at your own risk.
The 'zero device' circuit is actually not a very safe circuit to experiment with when connecting to the mains
or the output of an inverter. Not only could someone get a lethal zap from that circuit if they touch the wrong thing,
but if they connect a scope probe ground lead to the hot side (phase) of the AC line, they will short the hot phase to ground
(big arc, blown fuse or breaker) since the ground on a scope is typically not isolated from the mains ground.   

[v8karlo]

Warning to potential experimenters:
Build at your own risk.
The 'zero device' circuit is actually not a very safe circuit to experiment with when connecting to the mains
or the output of an inverter.

It is not safe. I've got zapped with my left hand.
Do not touch capacitors while device is working and when it is off use 100ohm 2W resistor to empty capacitors before you touch them.
Be careful with capacitors.


But if you touch capacitor on your washing machine while it works, you will be zapped too.
Anything working with 220V is dangerous.
That is why I am experimenting with 12V first. Always.


So yea, you are right.