Is this the first selfrunning overunity motor w/o batteries ? Mike?s motor

[lwh]

I'd be interested to know what became of Ben and his motor too.  Seems he was only communicating here directly through Hartiberlin.  Those Google video's that were linked to aren't there anymore either.  Neither is EmDevices, who seems to have left these forums because he didn't like their free-for-all uncontrolled nature.  It looked (to my untrained eyes) like he was working on something very similar to Ben's device, which Harti stated was overunity.  The whole thing should have been given it's own thread instead of being a side-track to this one it was in.  Maybe it was overunity, but not able to produce a useful amount of energy and so just got dismissed, I don't know.  Seemed to be well documented though.

[NerzhDishual]

Hi bright'n brainy chaps.
Penaos eman ar bed ganeoc'h? (Breton ling.).

Sorry for reacting late. I had not so much time to play with this non-self-running window motor.

However I still have blown up a meter fuse and a transistor by short-circuited the cap while forgeting this cap was not alone = my manoevre also short-circuited the bat.

Well done! My job is computer programming and I have the habit of doing some silly tests. I call it 'nose' or 'rough guess' reasoning. It does not explode anything when you make a mistake. Any computer programmer here who could understand me? This was and off topic digression...

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@Z_P_E:  thanks a lot for your kind comments, your clear & simplified circuit drawings and also for your suggestions. I will try your modifications.

BTW: I just have done another measurement on L3 (having forgotten the previous one).
L3 is = 58 ohms - 83 mili_H  (0.40 m/m = #25). As said earlier.
I do not know wy... Because it is 'alone' and a little bit wider?
OK : I will take pictures of oscilloscope shots.

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I have just tried this modification:
As already said, with a 3 (small, depleted and non refillable batteries) this motor is running slowly and is drawing about 20-25 mili amps (according to an digital amp meter).

Now, with a 6*1.2 volts small batteries it is running faster (of course) and it draws 50 mili amps (according to an analogical amp meter and after being 'stabilized').

I have wired an extra 5K potentiometer in series with the 10 ohms MPS 8099 base resistor. When having this pot fine tuned the motor draws less than 40 mili amps without any discernible change in the RPM.
Why 5K? : because with 1K it changes nothing... Why?
picture : http://freenrg.info/Window_Motor/Tr_Base.JPG

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Else,  apart Z_P_E ideas (actually: what is the use of this diode and this (strange)Crouzet relay?), I'm planning to do some other experiments.

For those who should be interested in, 2 pictures:
http://freenrg.info/Window_Motor/Modifs_1.JPG
http://freenrg.info/Window_Motor/Modifs_2.JPG

Best

[z_p_e]

ND,

Changing the input resistor on Q1 will affect two things remember, 1) the load seen by L1, and 2) the voltage drop across the input resistor. Both will affect the timing, but should tend to cancel one another.

Mod#1 is a little odd (two different voltage sources in parallel), but why not. Mod #2 I thought about too, but decided to stay with a single FWBR.

Looking forward to your test results.

Darren

[SPP-48]

Hi all

I have been quiet recently but still busy working on the motor.

I?m not sure if this is a breakthrough of some type, or if anyone else has had this effect, but while waiting for my Crouzet relay to arrive from the UK (still) I have been trying various reed switch arrangements.

If the negative or positive connection from the capacitor to the motor is interrupted with a reed switch angled a certain way in relation to the flywheel magnet, the charging voltage shoots up very quickly when the rotor is spun manually.

The scope shot taken at D2 shows spikes of around 25v, with the multimeter reading of around 13v DC.

There is a very small tolerance in the reed switch position, and the spikes suddenly disappear if the reed is moved ever so slightly. To find the best position I held it in my fingers and moved it around the flywheel magnets until I found the sweet spot and then set up a separate stand with stainless steel wire that could be bent into position.

Here are some pics.

Cheers

Sam

[SPP-48]

In the previous scope shot the 3 flywheel magnets were aligned midway between the N&S rotor magnets. In this shot, they are aligned with the south rotor magnet. I could not get any spikes from other alignments.

Sam