The Brnbrade Coil/Overunity?

[wattsup]

@guidoc66

The wiring scheme you mentioned is one that switches sides from one of the Secondaries to the opposing Primary.

The standard connection is AS to CP, BS to DP, CS to AP and DS to BP.

In both cases one Primary is connected to the opposing Secondary. The connection scheme you are reffering to is the same except that one of the Primaries is connected in reverse to the opposing Secondary.

What type of build did you make. Please identify it on this thread so we can keep track of builds and results.

wattsup

[guidoc66]

Hi Wattsup,
thanks for the prompt reply.

My coils are as follow:

core : plein soft steel 6mm dia x 35 cm
primary : house wire 1.5 mm2 x 52 turns
secondary : 0.2 mm insulated x about 1450 turns (16.5 ohms) in one layer only
Electrict tape as insulator and Al foils wrapped several times around the core and coil
One mistake I did is that I wound primariesl CW and the secondaries CCW but I take this into account when I apply you scheme.


I'm starting doing some experiments and was trying to replicate your experiment where you saw the capacitor going up in charge but when I try to depict the connections I get the two closed loops, I mean the two leads of the condenser are connected to two separate loops, no current flow is therefore possible.
I'm sure I'm missing something. Where is the capacitor connected to? AS and CS is what I understand.

Thanks,
Guido

[wattsup]

@guidoc66

Very good size. Imagine 1450 turns  of the secondary. Yours hands must be totally numb and your eyes must be hurting also. It is not easy to do.

I translated your dimensions in Imperial so I could understand them better as follows;

Core Dia.: 6mm = 0.2362"
Core Length:   35cm = 13.78"
Secondary 0.2mm = 32 AWG
Primary 1.5mm = 15 AWG

My test set-up was very simple. I would put a capacitor on B and D, the voltage meter on A and C. To start it up, I would take 12 volts from my power supply and hit the B- and D+ and the voltage would increase. Removing the DC supply, the voltage would decrease until the capacitor reaches a certain level, then it would start to rise on its own. When I got to 7 or 8 vdc, I would put a small 12vdc 150 mA led on the A and C. The voltage would decrease then I would remove the led and the voltage would start rising again.

Now maybe with your build having only a .25" core, may make a difference one way or another.

The capacitors I used are either DC only or polarized. I would put the negative on B and the positive on D. Some of the values I used (over 50) are as follows;

27000uF 40vdc
330uF 200V
2200uF 35V

I had no success at all trying to repicate Brnbrades' Trial #1 and #2 as I do not know the cap value he used. I imagine it is high uF, low voltage but have not been able to find a ceramic cap of that type value.

Anyways, you have to play with the device. cap sizes, wiring, DC voltage for start up, etc., and if you have a scope you will see the effects.

Also if you have two compasses you can put them here and there around the coils while suppling DC voltage to B and D. Put them at the core end (long end) and you will notice one is North pole and other is South Pole. Now switch the DC supply polarity and you will notice the core end poles do not chage. Curious effects indeed. hit the Dc supply on A and B and see the compass turn.

Enjoy and please let us know your results.

[guidoc66]

Hi wattsup,
so far I used a 15000 uF 100V condenser. When I charge it up to about 18V it stays there for long time, after 24 h it gives 16.5V but I'm pretty sure this is just some leakage current of a good capacitor. My oscope does not show any sign of "life", just flat line.
My secondary coil was actually wound thanks to a drill at low speed (as screw driver): pushing the wire against the core with a finger works fine and every turn is wound adjacent to the previous one. It actually took 10 min but I did not use any system to count the turns and so rely on the coil resistance. Next time will count turns with a counter... wich I don't remember where it is.

I'll try the tests you suggested this evening and maybe will start working on a second version with different sizes, trying to get closer to your device.

Thanks,
Guido

[BEP]

Some info that folks don't seem to get here:

The Cook patent was filed in 1871.
Magnet wire - as we know it today - wasn't invented until 1877.

The coating was the big change. This coating was devised by an employee of Sherwin Williams and was the beginning of one of the largest wire producers in the world today.

Before that wire was often insulated with 'Empire Cloth' or some other form of treated cloth. Also, the wire used was often iron. That must be the source of the name 'magnet wire'.

The coatings used created winding to winding and winding to form spacings much larger than we see today. This made the electromagnets weak and prone to heating problems. It may have also created spacing that could be an integral part of making a Cook coil.

Because of insulation problems coils were often wound on forms that had grooves for the wire. This made a stable place for the wire. Forms we usually made of ceramic or Bakelite(sp?) or other things that were easily molded.

Ocassionally, you'll see coil forms made of 'Pot Metal' or Aluminum in old radio sets - like the Atwater-Kent radios.