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Overunity Machines Forum



Self Running Micro TPU, with closed loop.

Started by EMdevices, November 12, 2007, 11:49:58 PM

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Bruce_TPU

#330
December 03, 2007, 07:09:40 PM
Quote from: scorpio on December 03, 2007, 01:27:35 PM
@ btentzer

OK. You have right. What can I modify the circuit for more efficiency with 1000 uF cap?

scorpio



@ Scorpio
Reread my posts of modification made.  Try them or make your own.  It is all about experimenting and see what works.  Everyones result will always be different because of different toroids and different winds on said toroid.  Then post your results, good or bad.

@Wattsup
I liked your idea of trying out the cook coil.  Now that was creative.  Put the two, perhaps connected the mobius way and then retry? 

I gave you the phone number and name where I got my toroid.  You can call and order from them if you like.  At least we know their toroids work.

Quote from: EMdevices on December 03, 2007, 09:36:55 AM
@all,   good job guys, I'm pleased so many people like the circuit and are replicating and having fun.

@bruce,  I used different cap values, but the larger the cap and the larger the resistor, the longer the interval between flashes. (I'm talking about the small cap not the main 1000 uF cap) I think my longest results were obtained when it flashed every few seconds ( I think I used a 22 uF cap and 1 Mohm resistor, or maybe it was a 10 uF cap.)   With each flashing, even though we recycle the magnetic energy that has built up in the torroid, there are small losses.  I like your idea of using a smaller capacitance for the main cap, so you don't have to wait so long.    :D    By the way, I've been taken with the Stiffler project for now, but I plan on returning to this one shortly.

Here's a bit of engineering, make sure you opperate in the linear portion of the inductor, before the IR losses take effect, in other words, if the small cap value is too high,  there will be enough charge in it to drive the base current for longer then necessary and the collector current will increase linearly at first but then the resitance of the windings will start to become significant and losses will result.   So, use lots of turns of wire if you want to scale up to bigger caps.  But, I like the idea of working with smaller cap values so we can quickly gage whats happening.   (A scope is a good thing to have  :)  )

EM

@EM
Good to hear from you!  Thanks for the info, but actually, the cap values I need for C1 and C2 are from your modified circuit of Dr. Shifflers Circuit.  Thanks in advance!

@All
I am testing a 1uf Tantalum cap right now.  Then I will exchange the 1000uf cap for a 470uf cap.  I will determine my new base time and then continue from there.

My first LED's were 1.7 volt/20 ma.  I have for sometime now, been testing with 3.7 volt/20ma LED.  Tonight I will add a second one of these in series, and parallel and test both ways.  They are blue, rated at 3700 mcd!  VERY bright.  VERY expensive. :o

Last night, I was seeing which LED's were not burned out, plugging it into my system and one exploded.  Not burned, but the glass top broke and flew across the room with a pop.  Wife wasn't fond of my experiments producing flying shrapnel in the house!   ;D

Holiday Cheers,
Bruce
1.  Lindsay's Stack TPU Posted Picture.  All Wound CCW  Collectors three turns and HORIZONTAL, not vertical.

2.  3 Tube amps, sending three frequency's, each having two signals, one in-phase & one inverted 180 deg, opposing signals in each collector (via control wires). 

3.  Collector is Magnetic Loop Antenna, made of lamp chord wire, wound flat.  Inside loop is antenna, outside loop is for output.  First collector is tuned via tuned tank, to the fundamental.  Second collector is tuned tank to the second harmonic (component).  Third collector is tuned tank to the third harmonic (component)  Frequency is determined by taking the circumference frequency, reducing the size by .88 inches.  Divide this frequency by 1000, and you have your second harmonic.  Divide this by 2 and you have your fundamental.  Multiply that by 3 and you have your third harmonic component.  Tune the collectors to each of these.  Input the fundamental and two modulation frequencies, made to create replicas of the fundamental, second harmonic and the third.

4.  The three frequency's circulating in the collectors, both in phase and inverted, begin to create hundreds of thousands of created frequency's, via intermodulation, that subtract to the fundamental and its harmonics.  This is called "Catalyst".

5.  The three AC PURE sine signals, travel through the amplification stage, Nonlinear, producing the second harmonic and third.  (distortion)

6.  These signals then travel the control coils, are rectified by a full wave bridge, and then sent into the output outer loop as all positive pulsed DC.  This then becomes the output and "collects" the current.

P.S.  The Kicks are harmonic distortion with passive intermodulation.  Can't see it without a spectrum analyzer, normally unless trained to see it on a scope.

4Tesla

#331
December 03, 2007, 10:36:53 PM
Anyone tried an iron core yet?

Still haven't gotten my toroids yet.  :(  The ones I got from the old PC PS are the yellow type and didn't work well.  You all keep up the good work!

Later,
4Tesla

Bruce_TPU

#332
December 03, 2007, 11:50:56 PM
14 minutes 10 seconds run time, using a 470uf to replace the 1000uf cap that lasted 39 minutes 7 seconds.  Straight math does not work here.  The 470uf is rated 35volts, and the 1000uf is rated 16volts.  perhaps the cap with lower voltage allows less loss??

Nothing is adding time anymore.  But I still have an idea or two.

Holiday Cheers,
Bruce
1.  Lindsay's Stack TPU Posted Picture.  All Wound CCW  Collectors three turns and HORIZONTAL, not vertical.

2.  3 Tube amps, sending three frequency's, each having two signals, one in-phase & one inverted 180 deg, opposing signals in each collector (via control wires). 

3.  Collector is Magnetic Loop Antenna, made of lamp chord wire, wound flat.  Inside loop is antenna, outside loop is for output.  First collector is tuned via tuned tank, to the fundamental.  Second collector is tuned tank to the second harmonic (component).  Third collector is tuned tank to the third harmonic (component)  Frequency is determined by taking the circumference frequency, reducing the size by .88 inches.  Divide this frequency by 1000, and you have your second harmonic.  Divide this by 2 and you have your fundamental.  Multiply that by 3 and you have your third harmonic component.  Tune the collectors to each of these.  Input the fundamental and two modulation frequencies, made to create replicas of the fundamental, second harmonic and the third.

4.  The three frequency's circulating in the collectors, both in phase and inverted, begin to create hundreds of thousands of created frequency's, via intermodulation, that subtract to the fundamental and its harmonics.  This is called "Catalyst".

5.  The three AC PURE sine signals, travel through the amplification stage, Nonlinear, producing the second harmonic and third.  (distortion)

6.  These signals then travel the control coils, are rectified by a full wave bridge, and then sent into the output outer loop as all positive pulsed DC.  This then becomes the output and "collects" the current.

P.S.  The Kicks are harmonic distortion with passive intermodulation.  Can't see it without a spectrum analyzer, normally unless trained to see it on a scope.

plengo

#333
December 03, 2007, 11:54:12 PM
@all
I am impressed with the progress for this tiny device by EMdevices.

As I was doing an old experiment of mine where a 7ah lead acid battery runs my circuit and charges itself up I ran into this weird thing that Is kind of related to this thread.

I have a few coils connected, some LEDs (some in parallel and one in series with the parallel ones) and a few more parts (basically it is an oscilator with a mosfet and coils and utilizing the BEMF). As I was running the cuircuit I connected a 9v NIMH battery to be recharged at the output of the circuit. I notice that when I would turn off my circuit the 9v battery would now feed my LEDs (they are there as a visual load). So, I decided to discharged that 9v baby and connect it again. And again my LEDs would be up. So I discharged it again and again connected it and the LEDs again light up.

So, I decided to short the 9v bat and let it sit for the night shorted. Next day I connected it to the circuit and slowly it would come up in voltage and light the LEDs again. So again I shorted it many, many, many times until I would see it dead BUT it still light the LEDs up. So I put a amp analog meter in series with the LEDs (no battery on this meter just the needle meter) and it is steady for 2 days now at .3 ma (point three milliamps, it is a one milliamp range meter).

So, I did the same with a regular 9v battery, shorted it and I could sucessfully kill it, BUT the NIMH bat does not die and my LEDs are up and running as I type this message.

Sorry for the long explanation. I could post my circuit but I think it is the battery really that is doing that. I will run more tests with a more simplified version of my design later but for now I want to see how long it will light the LEDs. BTW the LEDs are lit in constant current, no pulsating. Steady voltage accros of 1.681v and current of .22 milliamps. No other meters connected to it only the batteryless amp meter (which is by itself eating even more current). I can not kill that 9v battery. I could come up with a video.

This is SO WEIRD!!!

Fausto.

4Tesla

#334
December 04, 2007, 02:57:12 AM
@plengo
Wow that is cool!.. Please do post a schematic and a video.  -Thanks

@scorpio
I noticed that you have put your cap inside the coil... I think that may be partly why you had such a long run time!

Later,
4Tesla

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