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Overunity Machines Forum



Roll on the 20th June

Started by CLaNZeR, April 21, 2008, 11:41:56 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 22 Guests are viewing this topic.

ramset

Thank you SmOky 2

I miss the Big Guy [Mr. Quinn},Looking Forward to your Build!!
Chet
Whats for yah ne're go bye yah
Thanks Grandma

sm0ky2

as i design my new wheel, i am going through the list of "problems" that ive encountered in previous builds, and attempting to resolve them in the new design.. One of these problems, was a rotational torque, or "twisting" effect.

Something inherent in Archer's original design, was the use of round rods. It never occured to me "why" he chose to do this, as i didnt htink it was very important. Now, going back through the thread, i only find it mentioned a couple of times, and he does so with little or no detail or explanation. Perhaps this was something he envisioned beforehand, or learned experimentally, and forgot to mention, or simply assumed we would copy his exact details without alteration...

The explanation, WAS in fact posted in this thread, by Omnibot, of all people, in one of his SMOT rantings...

At first i assumed it was because i used rectangular magnets, but i found through testing that this still occurs when using square magnets. After maticulous repositioning, "centering", adjusting.. the effect still prevails. So i ran some tests using a freely spining magnet suspended by nylon fishing line, and what i found was that the magnetic field actually twists naturally as it repels against gravity.

So,. i have decided to do away with the square rod attempt, and go with a circular rod, as per Archer's original instruction. I am still using a square repulsionary magnet, because i am fond of this mass-to-flux ratio that i currently have, and its ability to lift mass against the gravitational force. I dont want to go back to the drawing board and select new magnets...  However,. the round rod should eliminate the twisting torque by allowing the rods to twist freely as they naturally "want" to do.





I was fixing a shower-rod, slipped and hit my head on the sink. When i came to, that's when i had the idea for the "Flux Capacitor", Which makes Perpetual Motion possible.

sm0ky2

mulling over this "center shaft" problem...

would appreciate any input i can get on the subject..

My first thought was to position the rods above and below the center shaft, this causes a minor shift in the center of gravity of the wheel, each 1/4 rotation. also the "rod stop" problem would be carried over from the last design. ( left image)

And, since the object here is to eliminate as many problems as i can with each design... I am forced to rethink the rod mounting.

The best idea i can come up with is to bend the rods, similar to a crank-shaft so they can remain centered, and "go around" the center shaft.
This also uses the rod itself as the "rod stop", and will not cause any crashing-damage to the bearing mounts or rod stop. (right image)

What do you guys think?

[Edit:   the small rod-piece on the right mage, opposite the shaft, is a "keeper bar", the idea is that it will catch the rod, should the mounts break or come loose. ]
I was fixing a shower-rod, slipped and hit my head on the sink. When i came to, that's when i had the idea for the "Flux Capacitor", Which makes Perpetual Motion possible.

sm0ky2

Version 2 of the ExxoBearing was a complete failure, so we'll skip right over that and go to ExxoBearing 3.0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dv7rinuOuQk

This is desinged for use with the circular rods, and suprisingly, the round-on-round surfaces create absolutely NO binding, at any angle.
i can run the rods at a 45-degree angle if i wanted to, and they still work perfectly.

Here is a demonstration video. I'm very happy with these new linear bearings. Thank you to Exxcommon for the ExxoBearing invention.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9A_Rxh8yCQA

As you can see, there is hardly any friction at all here. The mounts are just sitting on the glass table, on pieces of paper.
They dont move at all as the rod passes through them.
The rod is a low-grade steel so it rusts quickly,
its been carbon-polished, and given a light oiling to help keep the rust off for a little bit. (In the final version i plan to use brass rods for the rods and center-shaft axle.)

now just need to iron out a few minor construction details, like the previous post, and i then can begin assembly.



I was fixing a shower-rod, slipped and hit my head on the sink. When i came to, that's when i had the idea for the "Flux Capacitor", Which makes Perpetual Motion possible.

AB Hammer

sm0ky2

Go to your hardware store and get channeled screen door bearings. 2 of those per set and 1/4 inch aluminum rod 60-61 for strength and you will have a thinner design. That is what I would do. I might even give a similar but different version a try now that I told you this. LOL Well I already have the bearings for I stock them for projects. And I have the magnets as well as OOPS I don't have the 60-61 rod. I could pick up some when I pick up my stainless this week.  ;)

Alan

PS spray WD40 into the bearings and it will loosen them up very freely. 
With out a dream, there can be no vision.

Alan