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Hilsch Vortex Tube Construction (Mechanical to Heat)

Started by sm0ky2, April 30, 2008, 01:51:48 AM

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sm0ky2

[sorry if i put this in the wrong place, this is the best i could find for it]

This thread will concern a construction design of a Ranque-Hilsch Type vortex air tube.
{disclaimer: There have been a number of websites and public sources that have been cited for using text, graphics, or otherwise copied information of certain copywritten publications. I have extensively studied this technology, its history, and its various construction from numerous sources and have not copied any information from these certain copywritten publications in any way shape or form. The device which is mentioned here is from my own design, using my knowledge and experience from having studied this technology. }

Precautionary Statement:: This device creates extreme temperatures of both Hot and Cold, which may be dangerous if exposed directly to Human Skin, this device is to be used with CAUTION!


Rising interests of this type of device in the public sector, for experimental purposes coupled with the high cost of the devices intended for use in the commercial sector have caused me to invent and post publicly and freely with no restrictions on anyone who wishes to use this information, my own design and construction methods for building this Type of device, hereby named a Ranque-Hilsch Type vortex air tube.

This discussion is not concerning the theories (there are dozens and conflict one another) about the functionality of the device. The fact that it works is good enough for me, im not particularly interested in "how it works". That being said...

The Device consists of 7 main components::

1) The Intake
2) the Block
3) The hot side
4) the cold side
5 & 6) nozzles on each side
7) a Valve for the hot side.


Particular materials will be discussed further in the development of this device, which materials are to be used is completely up to the individual builder. So long as they meet the certain criteria posted here, it should operate as intended, safely and reliably. 

Each of the 7 components will be described here in its entirety, and the construction or obtainability of each component will be discussed.

If you have an interest in building this type of device, you have come to the right place.
I was fixing a shower-rod, slipped and hit my head on the sink. When i came to, that's when i had the idea for the "Flux Capacitor", Which makes Perpetual Motion possible.

sm0ky2

The Intake::

The intake shall be suitable for transmitting compressed air from an air tank.

the diameter of the Intake (a tube perhaps or a pipe?) should be relatively small in comparison to the Hot or Cold sides.   Smaller to restrict maximum airflow, Larger to increase it. Your needs may vary.
In either case, its going to be small. From an Inkpen size, down to a Paperclip.

It can be any shape, round, square, triangular and the Intake can be from virtually any source, be it decommissioned from something with a hose on it, or buy a small piece, or metal tubing, or whatever you can find for cheap or free is usually the best.

Tolerance: 
The intake needs to be able to withstand at least 110 PSI Air Pressure,  this is an open end system, so the pressure nearer the Block will be considerably less., However you will experience 110 PSI at the Air Tank, so the Intake needs to be able to withstand at least that much.

(note: larger designs may use higher PSI and the Intake Tolerance must be adjusted accordingly.)

Below is my 'artistic' rendition of such a component.




I was fixing a shower-rod, slipped and hit my head on the sink. When i came to, that's when i had the idea for the "Flux Capacitor", Which makes Perpetual Motion possible.

sm0ky2

The Block is the Main chamber, where the Air is seperated.

The outer shape of the block doesnt matter. It can be any shape you like.

The Block needs to be From 3 to 8 times the diameter of your Intake, Smaller to lower the capacity of the Device, Larger to raise its Capacity  (Air Flow).

The Block Material should be able to withstand at least 110PSI  (or higher depending on your intake presure)
And Temperatures from -40 Degrees F  up to  230 Degrees F  ( -40 - 110 C) -  Devices with greater than 110PSI Intake Pressure, or a high-capacity (AirFlow) may require higher tolerances.



there will be 2 holes in the Block.

1) for the Intake, and should be sized/shaped to attach the Intake securely, and without leakage (110PSI) to the Block in the appropriate location.

2) a Hole through the length of the Block, of the approximate shape shown in the 'artistic' rendition below.

The length-wise hole through the block is of an archish shape, the easiest way to create this is to make a circle, then an arc off one side, and have a straight line connecting the bottom of the arc to the circle.


something like this:: ( ignore my jagged edges and imperfections, it should be as smooth and arcy as possible. like an almost complete spiral loop. then a staight edge. So the air goes around into the circle)
The intake should come in on the center of the 'flat part' indicated by the arrow
I was fixing a shower-rod, slipped and hit my head on the sink. When i came to, that's when i had the idea for the "Flux Capacitor", Which makes Perpetual Motion possible.

sm0ky2

I will be constructing my Block out of a poured accrylic so i will fashion a cylindrical core in the above shape, to use as a sort of inside of the mold, then pour the block around it. and 'pop' out the core.

Then Drill the hole for the intake.


I was fixing a shower-rod, slipped and hit my head on the sink. When i came to, that's when i had the idea for the "Flux Capacitor", Which makes Perpetual Motion possible.

sm0ky2

Hot and Cold sides:

The exterior size and shape of the Hot and Cold sides does not matter, it can be any shape you want.

The interior should be Round.
If you look at the shape of the inside of the Block:
The Inside of the hot side should be slightly larger than the entire shape, so that the air comming out can move freely in a whirlwind down the Hot side.

The inside of the Cold side, should be from 1/2 up to the full size of the Hot side.

The Length of the hot and cold sides should be sized by the length of the Block.

The Cold side should be from 3 to 8 Blocks
and the Hot side should be should be from 3 to 8 times the length of the Cold side.

There is a restrictor placed between the Block and the Cold side (or you can seal off the end of the cold side and drill a hole in the center)  - This can be a piece with a hole in it, or a washer, or whatever works.

The Hot and Cold side should be connected such that they do not leak, and should be able to withstand at least 110PSI. As well as Temperatures from -40F to 230F (-40-110C). [or greater to meet your requirements]

i intend to use some sort of piping for the Hot and Cold sides.

I was fixing a shower-rod, slipped and hit my head on the sink. When i came to, that's when i had the idea for the "Flux Capacitor", Which makes Perpetual Motion possible.